Recent Content by markus

I'm going to pull the trans and transfer case out the bottom. I have a lift and a transmission jack, so that would be easier. Is it true that the frame crossmember under the engine sits more forward on a 4wd than a 2wd? Does lifting the cab require removing the fenders?

I've been trying to figure out if I can remove the engine as an assembly (oil pan attached) and there are differing opinions as to whether that's possible or not without lifting the cab. Some say yes, others say no. Who's right?

I ordered everything from Cummins. I ordered the rear main seal with the sleeve kit, just assuming the crank would be grooved after 280k. It looks as though you have to use the sleeve if you use that seal. Any reason to not use the sleeve if the crank is not grooved?

So I thought my front Crank seal was my major oil leak. I pulled the cover, tabbed the KDP and put it back together just to find I still had a major leak. Come to find out the timing gear case is cracked, most likely due to the previous owner installing the vacuum pump/power steering pump...

I did see that it supercedes. I googled both numbers and you can find either one on the internet, however the newer one is more money. I snoozed on an OEM one on Ebay that was listed at $150 and of course someone else snapped it up. Does the superceded one have the updated dowel pin hole so the...

This is the same casting number as Cummins shows for my 1998 Dodge Ram truck, but looks like it is a NOS Ford part. It should fit, right? Or should I get the Chinese aftermarket one that has the built in pin retainer? How do the aftermarket one's compare to OEM? The Ford Part is about the same...

That's good to know. Did you use a Cummins sender?

I have read that it turns the gauges into basically an idiot light. It either shows pressure or it doesn't. I've also read the it does the same thing to the temp gauge. Maybe someone on here can confirm or debunk that theory. I'll probably try the sender first. I definitely don't want to listen...

Also, I know the crank seal is supposed to be installed dry. Now that I've run the truck, can I clean it off with mineral spirits or something like that and install it dry again? Or is it kind of a one-use thing?

I'm thinking of building one of these, then I could easily rotate it vertically to do that.

Not sure if you didn't completely read my post, but I already had the cover off and replaced the seal. The KDP was still in and I did tab it. Since there was oil everywhere and it seemed to be emanating from the crank seal (which is dry now BTW) I decided to replace that. Unfortunately I didn't...

So according to this, I think I have a STORM block

We have some powder coat hoppers at work that came with M10 fittings and we had to adapt them to a different system and we did temporarily use the 1//8 fittings off the old hoppers and they did screw in, however not easily. After we got the correct ones (M10 with o-rings) they screwed right in...

Got it. Thanks!

I don't have a Quickserve subscription and I can't view it