Re-gasket job, should I pull the engine?

[markus]

So I thought my front Crank seal was my major oil leak. I pulled the cover, tabbed the KDP and put it back together just to find I still had a major leak. Come to find out the timing gear case is cracked, most likely due to the previous owner installing the vacuum pump/power steering pump without the bracket that anchors it to the block. The crack is where the vacuum pump bolts to the case.

At any rate, I have to replace the case and there seems to be seepage from other areas including the oil hose from the vacuum pump to the injector pump, and quite possibly the tappet cover. I am also going to do a rear main seal because the trans has to come out anyway.

I don't think the oil pan gasket is leaking, however if I'm doing everything else on a 280k engine it probably wouldn't be a bad idea. Should I just leave the oil pan alone and do the leaking stuff with the engine in the truck, or pull the engine and do the oil pan as a preventative measure?

 

[DavidC]

I would pull it and do everything.

Dave

 

[mwilson]

Same here, you will never be any closer. Pull it and do them all....

 

[GAmes]

If you pull it you might as well get a valve job done also with close to 300k. All the rockers will be loose and the pushrods removed to pull the cam so it's just a few more bolts.

 

[GAmes]

In case you aren't aware. Beware of gasket kits from a lot of online vendors. Most of them include Interstate McBee gaskets which, IMO, are very low quality. If you are going to all the trouble I advise you to stick with Cummins upper and lower gasket sets.

 

[markus]

In case you aren't aware. Beware of gasket kits from a lot of online vendors. Most of them include Interstate McBee gaskets which, IMO, are very low quality. If you are going to all the trouble I advise you to stick with Cummins upper and lower gasket sets.

I ordered everything from Cummins. I ordered the rear main seal with the sleeve kit, just assuming the crank would be grooved after 280k. It looks as though you have to use the sleeve if you use that seal. Any reason to not use the sleeve if the crank is not grooved?

 

[GAmes]

Don't open the package unless the surface has a groove. You should be able to get your money back. A standard rear main seal isn't nearly as expensive. So, expense is the only reason not to use it, plus the added hassle of installing the sleeve. I pressed mine on using the flywheel

 

[SRay]

The trucking/excavating company I work for, for the last 4 years, I have noticed many things over the years.

When the engines are rebuilt in our shop, the guy that did them believes that we only need to use gaskets on parts that have been removed and if it didn’t leak, we save the gaskets for later or for a different truck with the same engine.

Only problem is, as time goes on, the front gear housing cover starts leaking or was already leaking but “too much work to pull the cam” etc.

Then coolant starts leaking, valve covers start leaking, on and on.

I just did my first overhaul of a cat 3406b that was just completed a few days ago.

I stripped the engine down, cleaned, installed new gaskets everywhere, included oil resistant silicone on some parts as this is a 31 year old engine and the mating surface isn’t perfect.

Then I painted the engine cat yellow, manifold and turbo in high heat black, painted some parts in black to break up all that yellow and give it some character.

Now my boss is extremely pleased to have the only cleaned and painted engine in his fleet.

 

[Woodenhead]

Don't forget to separate the vacuum and power steering pumps and replace that seal, it's a known leaker.
http://www.fostertruck.com/rod-end-for-solenoid-snaps-on-ball-6mm-x-1-00mm-thread-female-428.html

 

[markus]

I've been trying to figure out if I can remove the engine as an assembly (oil pan attached) and there are differing opinions as to whether that's possible or not without lifting the cab. Some say yes, others say no. Who's right?

 

[GAmes]

I've never tried to remove (or install) one with the oil pan attached. I also pull the transmission first. Lifting the cab would probably give enough room tho leave the trans and the pan installed.

 

[markus]

I'm going to pull the trans and transfer case out the bottom. I have a lift and a transmission jack, so that would be easier. Is it true that the frame crossmember under the engine sits more forward on a 4wd than a 2wd? Does lifting the cab require removing the fenders?

 

[Bob4x4]

You can get the engine out without moving the cab if you have a good way to tilt the engine as you maneuver it out.You can lift the cab a bit fairly easily,leave the fenders alone.

 

[Bob4x4]

If you do need to install the crank wear sleeve make a tool to press it into place,it is very thin wall

 

[GAmes]

Check out the picture in post #165. The engine easily slips out the front if you take out the radiator frame. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-powertrain/2337481-97-mpg-sleeper-build-14.html