Recent Content by Mike B.

hmm Pretty sure the drivers side axle & the prop shaft spin all the time. Engaging 4x4 slides the locking collar that connects the axles and puts transfer case in gear. It's unloaded but the front shaft still spins.

Are you certain that the noise is coming from the front end? I had a similar issue trying to track down a squeal a couple years back on my 99 lwb truck. I turned out to be the carrier bearing on the rear prop shaft. It's sling ring had somehow worked it's way loose and was freewheeling around...

Both of my 99's had the sender go bad as well. Like you I've been using the ODO as fuel gauge for years now. It's amazing what you can get used to accepting as being normal.

Vaughn I'm sticking with you ultimately needing an ECM. One of my failed ECMs acted in a similar manner getting progressively more problematic. I agree that it would be unlikely that the battery or alternator are at fault here. That said who knows is right considering the way these things are...

Both of my 99s only have rear wheel anti lock.

Just a few weeks ago I installed a pair of TRQ hubs that I purchased vie Amazon Prime. Generally I too would avoid going with the an off brand like this but honestly I was tight on cash so I'm giving them a shot. With the proper tools its really not a difficult job to do so for me there's not...

A properly operating ECM should send fuel to fire the engine regardless of the WTS light status. One key point in this diagnosis is how the engine starts HOT after being allowed to heat soak the ECM. Not that it couldn't be something else but in my experience with owning two 2nd gen trucks over...

Found the link for you! https://www.automodulesource.com/

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but that's a classic symptom of a failing ECM. In my experience the symptoms being after a hot engine is shut off and restarted after 5-10 minutes of heat soaking. As the ECM continues to degrade the hard starting gets worse. For me a key indicator is that...

I remember that cat & his Red Rocket from back in the early days of the 24 valvers.

That's interesting because the alternator I installed last month was internally regulated to 14.4v as was the one I removed. I wonder why there's two regulators?

It's quite possible you've been getting crappy CPS's from the parts store. The OEM one lasted for almost 400k miles before it failed but the next 3 only lasted a few thousand miles each before I finally got a good one. The most recent one's been installed now for close to 60k miles without issue.

Dan I could certainly be wrong here but I'm pretty sure both of my 99's are internally regulated at the alternator. Did the External regulator you removed appear to be an OEM installation, just curious more than anything I guess. BTW: I'm planning to install the ECM I received from Auto Module...

I recently purchased a second 99 that came with 285's and I'm experiencing the exact same problem. It's almost impossible to turn the wheel without the truck at least moving a little, something as simple as pulling out of a parking space has become a PIA. Since I've always run either 245's or...

Even in a constant loss scenario I don't think you'd pull the batteries down to zero in only 10 miles. Could it be that the heater grid relay was stuck closed?