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I buy red dye from a big dealer in our town here and it is CLEAN. If you are pumping that stuff out of an old transfer tank or job site tank than sure it is gonna be contaminated. Dealer cannot say anything about it being a dirty fuel.

My 06 does it. Reading this makes me feel better now. :D

Mine won't. I think there was a discussion about some of the earlier ones still being able to cycle a code.

Anyone have any pics of their regular cab with a replacement bumper. I had one on my 98. 5 extended cab dually but my new truck is a single cab/single wheel. I'm not sure if it would look good or not. :confused:

Truck did not run poorly. It was on factory setting. Yes, I reconnected the box. Temps with the module on factory setting. I don't want to go to the dealer to check the code. I hate not being able to see codes on the dash.

Was driving my 06 today when the check engine light came on. Disconnected the Quadzilla and the battery and the light went off. I don't know if I am just paranoid but it looked like my exhaust temps went up while shifting through 4,5,6 after the light situation. Close to 1000 with medium...

I changed my own oil on my 98. 5 and only used Mobil 1 synthetic. I'm not saying I know anything but I used it for 5 years and put 200,000 + on the truck and my buddy says it is still running strong. ;)

I am trying to find a good module to stack with my Quadzilla box. Dr. Performance maybe?

Yes. Tried the swap with the NEW wires and nothing. Put on an old thermocouple w/wires and it works. Guess I can send the wires back to autometer and have them send me a new set to throw in the drawer because I am not re-running them.

Update. Found an old thermocouple with the metal mesh protection all the way and it worked fine. Brand new wires from autometer didn't work. :rolleyes:

Thanks for the replys. LOL. I am not color blind. :D I disconnected the wires from the gauge and swapped them. Pretty crazy movements..... Just red attached shows 400 degrees, yellow brings it back down to 0. This shouldn't be so complicating. :{ If autometer goofed then the swap...

ALright... Took it for a ride down the highway and it is moving backwards slightly the hotter it gets. :confused: Anyone?

Autometer ultra-lite series. Just got power to it and nothing. Jumps up to 100 and then sits there. Everything was done exactly as described in the instructions. One problem I did have was the thermocouple connections were not staggered like they are supposed to be. :rolleyes: Slight bend...

Sorry about the lack of info. It is off of a International 4400 part # 1836094C92 I am sending it to Midwest Injection to see if they can rebuild it. I was driving down I35 hear a loud pop, see white smoke, and shut it down as quick as I can. I'm hoping it is fixable.

WHat should I expect to pay on a Garret Replacement? International just quoted me 1375. 00.

This is on an 06. I connected my boost power wire to the dimmer wire per Genos instructions and now I dont have power to my cab light via the switch. The light still comes on when I open the door. Is it because I removed the insulation on the wire to tap into it? It was the Orange/brown...

I've done that. We have 4 auto part stores in town here and nobody can match it.

Haven't talked to autometer because it's sunday. I'm assuming they are closed? ;) Trying to get this done today.

I have a pro series Autometer gauge that came off one of our race cars but it is missing the fitting that taps into the manifold for the probe. It is either 1/8 or 10 mm. Anybody have any ideas? Autometer part numbers? Everyone I have talked to is clueless. Thanks Richard

Call me paranoid if you want... :p With all of this talk about diesel in the oil I start worrying real quick when I see something unusual. I have 4100 miles on it and the oil level is 1/4 inch over safe zone. Do they overfill slightly at the assembly plant?