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I'm sure the motor home will pull the load, but you might get better fuel economy if your truck pulled the motor home. :)

No big deal, I've done it many a times. You do tend to get a "different" ride though. You get some "teeder", front to back motions when you come to any significant bumps or dips in the road. Its nice to have brakes on that extra axle back there, but if not the 5ers brakes should do fine. Just...

Inside the cab of my '04 seems to be as loud as the '99 I traded to get it, but when I roll down the window it doesn't get any louder than with them up. It sure is different not having to turn the truck off a McDonald's drive thru. I still have the '92 that the muffler fell off of, so I still...

My mom and step dad have a propane fired generator in their Mobile Suite. They don't know what they would do with out it. Another tip if your looking to spend a little extra cash. If you are considering a washer and dryer, get stack unit not one of the combo types. My mom got a vented combo unit...

This may be, I bought the hitch from my uncle who is a race car trailer manufacturer not from a dealer. Until I seen this thread I didn't know that Hijacker was a "main stream" hitch, so I figured I was on my own. I tried to adjust the bolt on the front, but never got any improvement. Either way...

A couple of posts ago I had wrote about the occasional near impossibility trying to get the bar slide back open. I would back up, sometimes leave weight on the hitch while attempting to open the slide bar, about anything I can think of. Usually I would have to use the "BMFH" to get it open...

Thanks for the input. I think I will go with the reese. If the only disadvantage is a couple of holes that won't void the warrantee, then I can save some money and get a Brakesmart Controller.

The slide bar is what I have on my 21k Hijacker, Beware!

I tried to do a search to dig up some info, but I can't find exactly what I am looking for. I think I have my choices down to either the Pullrite 25. 5k or the Reese Signature 24k. I haven't talked to dealers first hand, I have just comparing prices on various different sites. I am confused on...

I'm not sure if the "jaw" system on this 16k ultra slide is the same as the 21k slider that I have had on the truck I just traded in, but if it is stay away. I have put up with that hitch for 5yrs because I was too "tight" to do anything about it. The latching mechanism has to be greased up...

So a 235/460 should be called CO and a 305/555 should be a SO due to the difference in output? :-laf

So just to clarify, my truck was built in Dec of '03, being a CA CTD it is a 235/460 and if I were to get a truck that was built the same time for any other state it would be a 305/555?

My main concern is mpg. Is there any evidence that a CA truck does any better or worse than a SO?

Not sure if I am asking in the right place, but may be I can get some insight anyway. In snow and icy conditions should I take the family out in the '04 3500 DRW in 4wd or take the wife's '03 Grand Caravan w/o traction control?

If I make modifications to get the hp above 300, should I get gauges or assume that the truck is already set up for those mods?

Thanks TomeyGun, I didn't know there was all the "red tape" involved with a CA truck.

barbwire, being a "newbie" I thought the SO for an '04 model was 305. I got the truck at Cassens and Sons in Edwardsville, IL. They had a red one still there the last time I was at the dealership. For some reason the red one had less options and cost 2k more. The truck I got has shift on the fly...

Just like to say hello to everyone, I have been reading the forums for a while and since I just bought an '04 DRW 4X4 I thought it was time to ask some questions. So here it goes, the truck I just bought was a "Salt water" discount truck. It had parts replaced between the factory in Mexico and...