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Good info about the fueling and MPG effects... I've only driven my truck about 3K miles over the past year but I've been happy with the MPG so far. My last fill-up calculated to a tick over 21. 5 mpg. Not bad for an engine with over 250K miles on it. I've been looking around at various...

I haven't changed the filter in the truck yet, but have done so many times in my TDI. To prime the filter I use a Mighty-vac on the "out" port to suck fuel through the filter. Can this be done on the Cummins?

According to all of the battery application guides I've found, the 2nd gen CTD trucks take two group 27's, which is a somewhat rare battery size. A bit larger than the common 24 and usually with a higher CCA rating. The only brand Pep Boys carrys in that size is Bosch and the only ones with the...

Really? I was told the frames are different... I'd love to convert my CC/LB to a QC/LB... :confused:

I have a floor-jack style transmission jack, but I like the lift-the-bed method better.

Hard for me to say for sure... I bought my truck with 250K on the clock, and while the pump may have been replaced at some point in the truck's life, it sure looks dirty & greasy enough to be original... :rolleyes:

Boy, do I hear ya there... my '78 Ford and '86 Toyota both rusted out badly at the spot-welds above the wheel arches. I'm hoping the Dodge bed doesn't suffer from the same problem. :(

True... but for what I use my truck for (hauling mulch and firewood), I do need that space around the wheel wells. As cool as hide-n-side would be for a contractor considering a utility bed, it creates far more space than I really need, which is just some "not-in-the-cab" storage for a floor...

SRath, Definitely makes sense... still stinks, though... It would be cool if he could sell a conversion "kit" of some kind... supplying your own side panels... My issue with the hide-n-side is how much the design eats up bed space as well as the only pictures I've seen so far of of short...

+1 The only kits I've seen in catalogs list installations for everything except 94+ Dodges... :confused:

Cool... Mine has a tick over 250K... bought it with 249K (no... don't drive it much yet... ) I'll still feel better after I get it checked out by somebody with CDT experience... need time... :(

maybe it's just my CDT noob-ness showing through... but the stock radiator is freakin' huge... and cheap, too... bought a brand new one from the local radiator shop for under $300 (compared to $500 for our classic Volvo's radiator, which is less than 1/2 the size... ) :confused:

No easy way that I've found... the "lift the wheel and rock" method doesn't seem to work very well... for me anyway... I lifted the wheel and placed a pry bar between the axle yoke and the spindle to put pressure on the ball joints... any visible play is too much... Personally, the entire...

Ah... gotcha... FWIW (as you probably already know), gasoline is classified as a solvent, whereas deisel is classified as a lubricant... one reason why gas in a diesel fuel system is so bad for the fuel pump... as it's designed to be lubricated by what it's pumping... Hopefully, I can...

Great... well... I don't think I have to worry about corrosion to much... the thick layer of grime all over the engine bay should over good protection... Gee... I didn't know when I bought the truck I'd be buying another British vehicle... :rolleyes: What is 100LL and where do you get it...

Definitely glad to hear you're ok... :) Umm... if you decide to part it out, there are a couple of minor little things I could use that weren't in my truck when I bought it. Mainly, the handle/rod under the rear seat for lowering the spare tire... :( Definitely be thankful... the last...

Well, I used up about a 24 oz of Simple Green and let it soak for a good 1/2 hour... then hosed it off with full-hot water... it made a denti n the grime... a small dent... I think I'm going to need to find something with a bit more "horsepower"... :(

Hmm... sounds good. Might try it this w/e as I have access to hot water at my house (slop-sink in garage w/ hose connection) but not at my g/f's house where the truck (and my tools) is currently residing until I get everything fixed.

I wouldn't always trust CarFax. I ran the VIN for my truck and nothing would have flagged it as being what it is: a completely rebuilt truck created from a std cab 4x4 CTD and a club cab 2WD V10... :(

The clutch on my '95 releases really high... as does the clutch in a '97 I know of... apparently normal... If you have the time (sounds like you're in no rush), working on the front seal/timing cover/KDP is a TON easier with the radiator removed.