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I just couldn't sleep well knowing about this hack wiring job so I reached out to the mobile RV repair guys again, to give them another chance at resolution of some sort. They offered to uninstall everything and give me a refund. I think that's what I'm going to do and then order the smart...

I like the thought of simplicity and just undoing the shoddy wiring job. I politely informed the mobile rv guys that I wasn't happy with the wiring job and their only response was basically "how should we have done it/where should we have mounted it?" to which I responded something to the effect...

Oops, link didn't work.

Interesting @Ozymandias so something like this? My current one is Isolated but not Smart, apparently

I have the Victron Connect app and when I open it it connects to the Victron Energy SmartShunt 500 amp Battery Monitor (Bluetooth) which is also part of the system. That menu option does not appear for me. I don't know if the DC to DC charger is the "smart" version, I linked the...

The fridge must have a battery only option, that would explain things. Yes, after I charged truck batteries, we went on our shakedown trip and when we arrived at camp I unplugged the 7 pin from the camper and the camper's two 100 ah Lipo batteries (new last year, showing full state of charge)...

It must have that battery option then. Not clear from the minimal controls on the face of it. I suppose that's what drained the truck's batteries.

I have a Victron Energy Orion-Tr IP43 12/12-Volt 30 amp 360-Watt Isolated DC-DC Converter purchased and installed last year.

As far as I can tell, the fridge only runs on propane or shore power. It doesn't have a battery only mode. But it does require power when in propane mode for the circuit board.

That's how my system is supposed to be set up but my fridge will only run on propane (which of course requires a bit of electricity for the computer chip board or whatever, supplied by batteries) or shore power.

So you're saying this device you linked would be used in lieu of a DC to DC charger? I'm currently running two 100ah LiPo batteries, a Victron DC to DC charger and a Victron smart shunt battery monitor, all configured by the same mobile rv guys.

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I'm now tasked with telling the mobile rv guys the work is of poor quality AND finding someone to redo it all correctly. Not sure where to look for that...

When I recently mounted our truck camper (2003 Bigfoot 1500) I plugged in the 7 pin wiring plug from the camper to the truck bed and started the refrigerator on propane since we were heading out for a little shakedown trip the next day. When I went to start the truck the next day, the truck...

I like that bumper! Who makes it?

I hear that! I just upgraded from a 2004 Duramax to a 2018 Cummins and I'm just blown away every time I drive it. Previous trucks were 96 12V Cummins and an 02 24V Cummins.

Has anyone installed aftermarket fender flares? I'm looking at OEM, and some other aftermarket models. Nothing super huge, I don't want to run crazy huge tires or anything, I mainly just want the look and some of the functionality. Most look like they bolt up to factory holes in the fender...

Great question that I have myself. I'm wanting to upgrade to the 8" screen as well as get Apple Car Play. So expensive though! I'm seeing some similar stuff on eBay for far less money but I wonder about quality, instructions, wiring harnesses etc. It seems like Infotainment is probably the best...

Interesting take. I've read a lot of threads on various forums about the best truck camper stability ad ons and haven't come across this one yet. Most folks really love the stable loads and I haven't heard any drawbacks.

No auto level. HO or SO? Not sure. High Output? I don't think so

Definitely on the list. I'm going to start with the TorkLift Stable Loads, lower, as they claim this is the best mod one can do for hauling a TC. Swaybar will be next if I'm not happy with that alone.