Here I am

Truck camper isolation from truck batteries wiring issue

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

2015 3500 with 410 rear

Bad bearing sound during deceleration, with Exhaust Brake on

But, if you have a Victron DC-DC charger this unit (which model/year??) should be able to know if the truck is running or not.
And this has to be the only way in for current to the Camper.
As you say your camper is from 2003 there might be wiring issues that take shortcuts around your B2B charger.

I've seen to many old campers with horrible hacked wiring in the last couple years on campgrounds with owners desperately looking for help to get it fixed.
Everything is just cheap cheap cheap, lousy assembled and then hacked by some shade tree DiY electricans.
I have a Victron Energy Orion-Tr IP43 12/12-Volt 30 amp 360-Watt Isolated DC-DC Converter purchased and installed last year.
 

Is it the Smart Version?
If so, did you adjust the settings in the app according to the picture below.

Screenshot_20240603_225735_Firefox.jpg
 
As far as I can tell, the fridge only runs on propane or shore power. It doesn't have a battery only mode. But it does require power when in propane mode for the circuit board.
The amount of power required to keep the fridge's "brain" running is pretty minimal and shouldn't have drained two truck batteries. Without the camper connected to the truck, does the coach battery power everything in the camper? You should have a load test done on the coach battery to verify it's good because if it has an internal short, it would drain the truck batteries. I think you either have a wiring issue in the camper or you have one in the truck or perhaps left a light on in the truck to drain the batteries down.
 
The amount of power required to keep the fridge's "brain" running is pretty minimal and shouldn't have drained two truck batteries. Without the camper connected to the truck, does the coach battery power everything in the camper? You should have a load test done on the coach battery to verify it's good because if it has an internal short, it would drain the truck batteries. I think you either have a wiring issue in the camper or you have one in the truck or perhaps left a light on in the truck to drain the batteries down.
The fridge must have a battery only option, that would explain things. Yes, after I charged truck batteries, we went on our shakedown trip and when we arrived at camp I unplugged the 7 pin from the camper and the camper's two 100 ah Lipo batteries (new last year, showing full state of charge) power everything just fine.
 
That means you have the basic one, which does not sense an Alternator.
It can and should be controlled by a switch to only be powered on with engine running.
But most easy it would be to exchange that unit for a Smart one, no additional wiring and full control over the unit through the app.

If this is the only way power from the truck can enter the camper then this is the only thing you need - and you can revert the truck to the stock configuration.
 
I like the thought of simplicity and just undoing the shoddy wiring job. I politely informed the mobile rv guys that I wasn't happy with the wiring job and their only response was basically "how should we have done it/where should we have mounted it?" to which I responded something to the effect of "I don't know but you're the professionals and that's why I hired you" They have since ignored me. Cost me about $300.
 
@pdxkid, I wish that people that work on our vehicles took the pride that we do, in it's upkeep in the job that they were asked to do! Every time that I'm asked to help and or fix something, I treat it as if it was my own! I'll do a down and dirty too get it to a better location and than do the repair correctly. A repair like what you got should have been okayed by you and not the norm! :rolleyes: The basic wiring issues that you've shown, is of someone who doesn't really care about their job. It's like when you open an electrical panel box and the wiring is neatly run in it's place, The goy/gal that did that work is a professional and cares about their work! :cool:
 
I like the thought of simplicity and just undoing the shoddy wiring job. I politely informed the mobile rv guys that I wasn't happy with the wiring job and their only response was basically "how should we have done it/where should we have mounted it?" to which I responded something to the effect of "I don't know but you're the professionals and that's why I hired you" They have since ignored me. Cost me about $300.


There’s been plenty over the years that was new to me in this way. Library books, magazines, asking around. The last thirty years the Net has made it easier to figure out WHAT I should pay for (examples & part numbers, etc).

It’s not always successful, but it beats hell out of, I DON’T KNOW.

More than once I’ve forestalled crooked practice by being able to describe or ask intelligent questions. No different than what Dad or Grandad did. It’s on me, in part.

.
 
I just couldn't sleep well knowing about this hack wiring job so I reached out to the mobile RV repair guys again, to give them another chance at resolution of some sort. They offered to uninstall everything and give me a refund. I think that's what I'm going to do and then order the smart version of the exact Victron DC to DC charger that I have and go with @Ozymandias suggestion. A big thanks to everyone again.
 
Back
Top