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Ah I think it was just a 64/14 it was one of there first ones I bought it in earlier 06 it as not a ss or low pressure like the new ones that's why I was going to up date it. I haven't looked @ turbos in a while an dnt wrk @ a shop anymore so kinda wondering if there is better brands or what...

Ah I think it was just a 64/14 it was one of there first ones I bought it in earlier 06 it as not a ss or low pressure like the new ones that's why I was going to up date it. I haven't looked @ turbos in a while an dnt wrk @ a shop anymore so kinda wondering if there is better brands or what...

So htt called me yesterday an in a nut shell said it would be cheaper to buy new then fix an up date mine. I knew I had a lot of drive pressure an was over working the turbo but didn't think that bad. He said the only thing good on it was the intake turbine housing an I wanted to change that...

So htt called me yesterday an in a nut shell said it would be cheaper to buy new then fix an up date mine. I knew I had a lot of drive pressure an was over working the turbo but didn't think that bad. He said the only thing good on it was the intake turbine housing an I wanted to change that...

Pulled the turbo off and put a stock one on so I could send it off. There was a lot of wheel play not hitting the housing but left an right an in an out. Called htt and they said in and out is not a good thing so I talked to them about it and am going w/ the ss64/13 so I'm hoping sometime next...

not too sure on the 2nd gen when i had my edge an smarty if i turned them both up "i could do one or the other but not both" it would pop and almost back fire then clean out. sense then i have changed the edge out for the tst and i can turn them both up as long as i turn the timimg off on...

I dont have the stock turbo had it sitting in the garage for 3 years an gave it to a buddy building a 12v in a ford. Pretty sure im going to send the turbo off an get it updated from htt an do the ss housing and 64/13 got looking at prices of twins an thats more then i want to spend right...

Huh? Dnt knw that but I will check. Its been on the truck for about 60k and never leaked. It is coming from between the main body an the exhaust housing then dripping down on the drain tube. I though at first it was the drain tube leaking but then saw it further up. But thanks for the info will...

I washed mine out in a solvent tank when i did my injectors awhile back seemed to flow air pretty good but havent replace.

Money is kind of an issue not like I was saving for this or have money jus laying around to go an buy twins but I have learned buck up and buy what you want the first time or you will pay or it in the long run... been down that road a few times. i know i need studs that and water meth an i was...

Axle ujoint usually have a vibration at hwy speeds or feels like its in 4wd

My radius arm bushings went out an did the samething. drove me bonkers had everthing replaced an still poped only at low speed when turning an any little bump. . which my drive way has. Have them pulled out an inspect the bushings mine were worn an moving around... If its not lifted Im sure you...

Was checking everthing over before the big weekend and as i was checking the tire pressure looked inside the fender well an ther it was turbo leaking out of the back half:mad:guess I've been mean to her one too many times :D Anyway its one of the first 64/14 htt turbos with about 60k on it...

More info where are they leaking? Is it the injector, or the tube, fuel line,is it leaking into the oil???

you can only remove them for race purposes only lol, but its the darnedest thing how they just fall off all the time and we dont look back

really sounds like a bearing...

ISSPRO makes good gauges they match the factoy colors white with red dial. . I have the edge piller with the juice pod mount an the 2" manual gauge hole that i have a ISSPRO boost gauge beacuse the edge an tst only read the factory map an its limited to only reading 40lbs of boost

i cant think of the name of it to save my life "carrier bearing?" but in the middle of your rear driveline it hold the driveline and mounts to the chassis with two bolts. Anyway the inner part it rubber an wears out then the driveline will clunk or vibrate mainly noticeable on take off.

i do belive that the cat an retarding the timing to meet emissoins is due to the lower mileage but most chips advance timing and those cats fall off all the time... its the damnest thing then the pick up a few miles but they changed the fuel a few years ago so you wont see the milage we use to

steering box will not want to return to center also could make a popping sound if you turn the wheel left an right when not moving, an over steer, but front ujoint will also over steer and make it feel like its in 4wd also shimmy or vibrate at hwy speeds. ball joints will make it have sloppy...