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yes its a single disk i have no need for a triple. i tell you what this dang truck has been nothing but aggravation. and dodge in all their wisdom cost me a pile of money with that stupid in tank pump. burned up 2 vp44s

i got a dunrite converter and valve body. the converter is great and when i first start the truck and take off it shifts great once it locks up it goes into limp mode. the converter was 900 and the valve body was 450. the labor was 600 what a waste that was. also the people at dunrite have been...

I had a converter and valve body installed about 2 weeks ago by atomic transmission. the guy seemed to know what he was talking about boy was that a load of crap. he had my truck for 4 days for the install and another week to try to get it to shift right. still does the same thing. this is just...

i have a 99 2500 and i just had a dunrite valve body and converter installed. it shifts fine if i'm easy but if i get into it hard or try to power brake it feels like its starting in 2nd gear. the guy who installed the stuff told me he put the resistor in the harness. anyone with a clue i could...

thanks. i tried it earlier and this time no light. but the converter still shakes the whole dang truck in lockup. oh well just have to keep a light foot for a few more weeks

the problem with my vp44s is the lift pump but i hope to take care of that with the trans when uncle sam decides its a good idea to give me my tax return. as for the comp yesterday i hooked the map sensor and it threw the check engine light. i unhooked it and then it stayed on for about three...

i know what your saying and i had the wire tapped for 2 years but after 2 vp44s and my auto is almost gone i just wanted to know if i could use the comp till i get the trans redone. i know they run great. i used to smoke my friends 2001 7. 3 all the time. poor ford guys

question i know it won't be to its full capability but do i have to tap the fuel pump wire with an edge comp

i guess their is not much that is going to save us from the oil monsters huh. oh well i like the idea of having hubs and well bearings i can see not just some dang encased thing

Ok mpg isn't what they said would it be worth while to lose the unit bearing? Had trucks for 3 years no problem with them yet but i heard they are like 500 bucks a pop? also they are a ***** to get off i did have to replace a rotor took me 2 hours to knock the junk off the knuckle

anyone done this? almost a thousand bucks cheaper than others i've seen. the guy told me they average 2 mpg better than stock diesel prices are killing me