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Hopefully the Vortracs are cheaper down there than up here...

I just put on their 35" Vortracs, one of the few E rated 35's out there for 17" wheels, only other is the TOYO MT (as far as I know)

40" Nelson, got it from my local cummins store for $67 Cdn. 4" straight through, not obnoxious.

My 06 has 5kk km on it and all 4 are shot already, this thread will come in handy if I gotta change the fricking things every 3 years. (Dealer's doing it this time I hope)

I agree, my son's Dakota has the same thing. Open the hood, grab the steering shaft at the joint and lift up and down, someone else will feel it in the steering wheel. You need one of these: DODGE Replacement Shafts (My son's cheap, he's living with the clunk)

Thanks, I couldn't find it at the Genos site.

When I did my leveling kit, the last step of the instructions was to let the truck down off the jack stands, fire it up and turn the steering wheel back and forth which moves the diff around till things line up, worked great for me. Anyone have a link to these bushings?

Right. for a measely $400 or so¿ :eek:

I would replace the term "properly built lift" with "high end lift", not everyone needs to spen d thousands of dollars on the front end to simply lift it a couple inches.

Cool, put me down please, been wanting to get one of those,,,

In the first post you said the fat part of the washer should point to the front bumper, isn't that the 9:00 position?

I found this thread doing a search, anyone have any experience with the 35" Vortracs?

I searched for that part number at that site and got nothing... ¿ I changed my clutch and the boot already had a hole in it at 30k miles.

Be warned though, Xenon flares don't fit 06 and up trucks worth crap, they haven't changed their style for the bigger headlights so the flare actually covers a small part of the headlight. I bought some Xenon's off a guy, was going to put them on my truck till I saw this and have now decided...

Don't know, but I do know I had those stainless wheel opening things on my old Ford that did wear through the paint and I had rust under them, but they're still sold as well. I've heard of enough people saying their flares wore through their paint that I know I'm not willing to take the chance...

It may be a "non issue" if you only own the truck a couple years, but if you keep it a little longer I think you'll find the rusting fenders to be very much an issue!

My trailer is only 4500 pounds and when I tow it the back of my truck is FULL of gear. I tow on Performance all the time and have not had it get more than 1250º and that was only briefly lugging up a hill, shifting down to 5th it dropped. You should not run a programmer without gauges though.

Also, with the daytime running lights you're getting a reduced voltage to only the HIGH beam. I'm guessing with them on all the time the high beam might blow but you'll still have your normal low beams for driving at night. I know I can change the daytime running lights, fogs on with high...

I uses a modified Liberty canister to feed my AD100 and plumbed the AD return back into the canister to get rid of my problems when the tank gets low, here's a link: AD 100 install part 2 - canister modification - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums

I wouldn't say that, Lary does run a tight ship though... :-laf