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This time around, I went with the Prestone Platinum Universal for my '09. It can be found just about everywhere and the price is right.

Where in UT? Last one I went to was Morgan back in 2015.

I've managed to do pretty good cost wise. A few years ago, I scored 12gal of Mobile HDEO 15w40 for $6/gal, 10 gal of Traveler's 15w40 for $52/pail, and 21 gal of the Delo 5w40 for $8.95. 43 gallons of oil for 387.95, that works out to around $9/gal. I was also getting some shopping credits from...

Holy crap!! Here I was thinking that I got a good deal when I picked up a bunch of Delo 5w40 for $8.95/gal. It sucks that they don't have any locations in my state, but for that price, it's cheap enough to warrant a road trip!

By keeping the 3" pipe, it is pretty much compressing the same volume of exhaust gas as it would with a 4" setup mounted further upstream. If you move it next to the transmission where the downpipe meets the rest of the exhaust, it will still brake about the same, but eliminate a second or two...

Caterpillar used this very system from 2007 up until they got out of the highway truck market. After I saw this setup on a couple of 2011 trucks, I wondered why nobody else was doing things this way. They called their system CGI and it seemed to work alright. Edit: The first post explains the...

I totally forgot that that those things exist since I got rid of the POS one on my '09.

Sounds like the flywheel is warped, or has some hot spotting. You only feel it in first since you're keeping the clutch at the friction point longer. When brake rotors have the same thing happen, you'll end up with some vibration.

Isspro has everything you're looking for.

The top cover that the CCV filter resides below is just a cover and isn't sealed at all. The CCV filter itself uses O-rings to seal directly to the actual valve cover that's underneath.

I would go with the Fleetguard since it is the correct part. If you go with Mopar, you will get the exact same filter, but the price will be marked up 200%. The only budget friendly option I would even consider is Baldwin...

This scenario would be an absolute blessing, still kinda sucks though!

It may also be that one of the timing case bolts backed out. I swapped out an engine for a guy that had this happen to his '90 W-250. One of the bolts backed out and fell into the gears. It ended up breaking the cam into 3 pieces, bent a bunch of valves, and messed up the head along with a few...

Also, it seems to run cooler than the Delvac. I don't have a temp probe installed, but while towing, I could feel quite a bit of heat on the shifter itself. With the MTL, it still gets warm, but nothing like before. Not scientific at all, but I'm guessing about 15-20° cooler based on feel.

After I ditched the DMF, I ran the Delvac 50 for several years. It was a real pain to shift any time it got cold, so the next time I changed it, I went with Red Line MTL 75W/80. It is just as quiet as the Delvac, and shifts so much better when cold, even when it's well below zero.

It would be easy to just remove the turbo and see what kind of oil pressure you're getting. Since it's leaking, it needs to come off anyway.

You pulled the codes for the instrument cluster itself. The correct way to pull diagnostic codes is to turn the key to run, off, run off, and then to run (same way it has been since forever ago). Chances are that if you didn't see anything on a code reader, there are none stored. Sounds like...

DDAMM (Drunk Drivers Against Mad Mothers) pushed for it so they could still buy beer. :D

Sure beats replacing manifold gaskets! Glad you got it taken care of.

Those pics were of a totally stripped cab that was for sale on eBay. This pic is of the hole that you have to stick your hand in and feel back towards the cab. There is about an inch wide gap that you can stick your fingers into and feel around for anything that may be in there. Both sides have...