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Well I don't think you need a bypass pulley. All you need to do is to re-position the stock tensioner to the other position for a shorter belt.

Your new ignition switch would say THANKS to you and have a long life if you turn OFF the fan from the HVAC control module before key OFF. The switch is not designed to break the heavy inductive fan motor current at high fan speed. If the motor makes noise while spinning its bad. Replace it.

http://www.rambodybuilder.com/2006/docs/wd/dr/wiringdiagrams/8w44interiorlighting.pdf

http://www.rambodybuilder.com/2005sbbgl/docs/wd/dr/wiringdiagrams/8w50frontlighting.pdf Diagram of interest: 8W-50-5 Circuit of interest: E19 (OR/BR) panels lamp dimmer signal from Cluster to Panel Lamp.

Without the blower running the AC light will not come on even after you push ON the button.

When ALL the electrical connections between the alternator output and the batteries posts and grounds are perfect the voltage readings at alternator output, driver side battery positive post and passenger side battery positive post should be the SAME. The charging path involve both the charging...

There is NO charging current from alternator output to batteries. The bridge between the alternator and the batteries is down. Fusible links are after the batteries. So check the charging cable and electrical connections at both ends.

38V is the open circuit (no load) voltage of the alternator. It's like there is nothing connected to it. And there is NO charging current output. And hence non of the battery is getting charge. The load of the truck drains down the batteries. You have a open circuit between the alternator...

There is only ONE module: Engine Control Module ECM on the truck (3rd gen) that covers the job of PCM and TCM.

This was a sign of bad crossover cable or defective DS battery. BUT the PS battery was good and not overcharged then it's NOT the crossover cable.

Any battery with a dead cell (one cell less) will experience overcharge with the normal system charging voltage. So if just one battery vents and the other is good then it's that battery defective.System charging voltage is normal. If it's the PS battery vents and the DS battery LOW/drained...

So the venting was caused by a dead cell and hence the battery experienced overcharge with the normal system charging voltage .

Which fuse was blown and replaced? Apparently the tangled harness created a short circuit some where and hence got P0107, P0642 and P1749, all sensor circuit low. Guess a 5V power supply in ECM was shut down due to the short. Are you sure the harness is still good electrically? Try to run it...

It's hard ( for me) to concur that its an overcharged issue.

Was it an overcharge issue to cause the driver side battery vent but not passenger side???

The ONE and ONLY ONE thing that ECM looks at/cares is to see the DRIVER SIDE BATTERY voltage matches with its TARGET system voltage. And the target system voltage depends on the DRIVER SIDE BATTERY temperature sensor signal underneath the battery. Passenger side battery voltage is never in...

I'm going to say your crossover cable is GOOD if your driver side battery vents because of overcharge. A BAD crossover cable will sure leads to a undercharged/dead driver side battery and a overcharged/vented passenger battery. But why the passenger side battery is not vented while the driver...

Your gauge is a big liar, 1.5V off.

P0882 = Trans 12V supply relay control circuit low. That relay delivers 12V power to trans for operation. Check out that relay.

What's the actual reading? Post a number. It should be 15V at around freezing ambient temp. Your stock gauge read 15.5V to me and it's the driver side battery voltage. To me it's a bit too high.