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Thanks for the clarification! I have 300 gallons of liquid de-ice in my truck. The clutch went out the day I was hired on with a company to spray parking lots. Of course the worst snow in my area happened to have pretty much cleared up Monday. Go figure.

So, jobs done and all set with a successful function check. I’ve read clutches should be given 400 miles of city driving before freeway speeds but the instructions that came with the kit made no mention of this (duralast kit). Any input?

I went with organic for the new one.

I have 3000 lbs of de-icing fluid in the back of my truck so she was balanced well.... a little too well since she is sitting low in the back and I’m not a skinny man.

I bought a new one. I’ve had this truck for two years, supposedly it had a new clutch installed before I bought it because the PO has a bad left leg and trashed the first one.

The two bolts as guides worked like a charm! Now the drive shafts, clutch linkage and small stuff need put together! Thanks for all the help

Thanks for the tips guys, I’m going to go get a couple of long ass bolts to use as guide pins, plus try to get her in gear.

got the flywheel in, pressure plate and clutch mounted (and centered up with an alignment tool) and the transmission up and positioned but the splines aren't lined up between the transmission and clutch.

day two, got the transmission down, pressure plate off. that clutch is toast! I was told the clutch had been replaced prior to me buying the truck because the prior owner was an older man with a bad left leg, causing him to have issues keeping the clutch pressed in. the fly wheel surface is dug...

my NV 6-speed needs a new clutch. What type should I avoid? How much time should I plan to do this with two experienced shade tree mechanics? Are there any special tools needed besides a trans jack? What should I consider while doing this? I’m hoping to do this in one day.... am I dreaming?

I use either diesel kleen or Howe's at the recommendation of my cousin who is a commercial truck driver as well as a GMC (yuck) diesel owner.

The latch to hold my bench seat up or down keeps catching. I've cleaned it up and lubricated it but the rolling lock will not more properly which is forcing me to use a screwdriver to free it up to lift or lower the seat. Does anyone have a fix for this? Google has failed me

Freeway test completed. No leaks, improved throttle response and improved fuel mileage.

Up and running. No leaks, no creaks. I'll do a test run at speeds over 30mph tomorrow, maybe highway if all is well. The install was fun... to put it in NCO speak: bolting that ***** to the frame was a mother****er.

I got some plastic shavings in my fuel tank that is full of fuel while installing the draw straw... F&$@!

are FASS brand filters the only filters that fit this kit or are there other brands that work with it?

Well I bit the bullet and bought a FASS titanium series 150gph system. This should solve my problems.... and if it doesn't i'lol be dodging bullets because I'LOL have one ****** off wife! :eek:

Okay. thanks. I know Jeep XJ's in and out but am very new to Diesels. ETA: if I end up needing a new fuel pump I plan on ordering a FASS system, for a stock truck with manual trans do I just need the 95gph or would the 150gph be a smarter buy? Currently the heaviest item I pull is an M416...

I can't even find the Schrader valve to figure out how to hook up the test fuel pressure gauge.

It's still the stock filter mounted setup. I rented a fuel pressure test kit so I'm going to hook it up later, plus a borrowed OBDII reader. are the two upgrade options worth looking at just FASS and Airdog or are there other options that work well too?