Fuel starved/engine struggling under load

[2t2-crash]

Update: My FASS 150 and FASS draw straw kits have been installed and leak checked and all seems well, I'm going to do a test run at moderate speeds next.
My stock fuel sending line is disconnected on both ends and only held underneath the bowl. The stock return line is still hooked up.

Are there any benefits to a fuel bowl delete kit?





This issues has been kicking my ***.

this started last week while driving back from Portland. I was doing 75 MPH with 1/8 tank of fuel when I started having loss of power in surges. I could get from 2nd through fifth okay but once I hit sixth gear I had to stay between 60-65mph and keep RPM under 1800. Going up hills would greatly effect the loss of power.

I drained and inspected the fuel separator and filter and found sandy grit at the bottom of the bowl. I installed a new filter, reprimed the fuel system and it seemed okay till I got back on the highway. Since then I've dropped the fuel tank and cleaned it out because there were some black floaties in there, plus bought and installed a new fuel pickup assembly due to the pre screen being clogged with black algae on the top, bottom and between the screen which had a tear. Further fuel separator inspection found more grit at the bottom of the bowl.
I disconnected the fuel lines and blew them out with high pressure air and reassembled it all. It worked like a champ for five minutes then started acting out again. Now it has issues in all gears.
Trying to push the throttle just causes more stuttering and stalling, and it ocassionally died coming to a stop.
I still have the stock lift pump mounted next to the separator. The engine is stock and only has 47000 miles on it but sat for almost a year before I bought it in August. I use fuel additives every other fuel up.
This is driving me nuts.

 

[p-Bar]

The algae things scares me especially with the tear in the screen . I would put a gauge on the low pressure side and make sure that pump isn't failing. You should carry an extra one of those. Most trucks were converted to the in tank pumps , mine l lasted till about 70k

 

[Killer223]

any codes? hows the air filter?
you really should get the intank pump.
we need to know what the rail pressure is. so a good scanner or edge insight will be needed.
are you getting any smoke? black? white?
any way you can post a video?

 

[cerberusiam]

The black build up was probably asphaltenes, typical by-product of the fuel polishing in a CR fuel system and ULSD fuel. You probably need to reconsider your additive package and find something that is bit more on the cleaning side than just the normal stuff.

Is this a replacement engine with 47k on it or does the whole truck have 47k? Considering what you did find in the tank and the symptoms you describe the FCA could quite likely be the root of you problem. Definitely a high probability if it is 2003 vintage and quite likely if it is newer.

LP is also a concern as those pumps are less than reliable. You really need to get a gauge on the CP-3 inlet and a rail pressure gauge to see what is happening when the problems occur.

 

[2t2-crash]

I'll respond more in depth later, for now:
I intend to rent a fuel pressure testing kit and get a look at that this week, I don't have videos but I can certainly take one or two.

the whole truck only has 47k miles on the, the PO was an elderly man with health problems that rarely drove the truck.

 

[jhenderson]

I'd bet my own money on the fuel pump if it's still the filter mounted style.

 

[2t2-crash]

I'd bet my own money on the fuel pump if it's still the filter mounted style.

It's still the stock filter mounted setup.
I rented a fuel pressure test kit so I'm going to hook it up later, plus a borrowed OBDII reader.

are the two upgrade options worth looking at just FASS and Airdog or are there other options that work well too?

 

[Killer223]

the in tank pumps are very reliable. not really made for high HP. but still very reliable and most parts houses will have them in stock.
i have this kit. and it works great..
so far no gelling fuel issues either. i't been in -10F and was still ok..

http://www.dieselfuelfilterkits.com/03_12_cummins_fuel_filter_kit.html

 

[p-Bar]

the in tank pumps are very reliable. not really made for high HP. but still very reliable and most parts houses will have them in stock.
i have this kit. and it works great..
so far no gelling fuel issues either. i't been in -10F and was still ok..

http://www.dieselfuelfilterkits.com/03_12_cummins_fuel_filter_kit.html

I own this kit too very easy to install . I have the intank pump that Dodge converted for free. I would do the air dog or FASS though I have not had any problems with the intank. I see the intanks are quite expensive . Good luck

 

[cerberusiam]

The in-tank pump is probably the best design using the fuel in the tank to cool and lube it. Lot harder to work on if it dies and is just barely adequate for stock operations.

The AD I would not touch, too many problems with QC and warranty.

The FASS is the best choice now if done correctly; no draw straw, upgraded pickup lines. The better filters and fuel heater as an option is a plus. Anything else will require customized building and matching.

 

[2t2-crash]

I can't even find the Schrader valve to figure out how to hook up the test fuel pressure gauge.

 

[cerberusiam]

There is no Schrader valve on your truck, you have to get a tapped banjo bolt or cut into the fuel line between the OE housing and CP-3.

 

[2t2-crash]

There is no Schrader valve on your truck, you have to get a tapped banjo bolt or cut into the fuel line between the OE housing and CP-3.

Okay.
thanks. I know Jeep XJ's in and out but am very new to Diesels.


ETA: if I end up needing a new fuel pump I plan on ordering a FASS system, for a stock truck with manual trans do I just need the 95gph or would the 150gph be a smarter buy? Currently the heaviest item I pull is an M416 trailer that gets loaded with firewood and dead elk so it might bust 2500lbs total which I honestly forget I have hooked up when towing.

 

[2t2-crash]

Well I bit the bullet and bought a FASS titanium series 150gph system. This should solve my problems.... and if it doesn't i'lol be dodging bullets because I'LOL have one ****** off wife!

 

[Prairie Dog]

I run the FASS 95 with an extra 100HP and it keeps up perfectly. In fact the fuel pressure doesn't drop at all even at WOT with a heavy load.
But I'd rather have the in-tank system.
Wither way you should be good to go but you may end up having to replace the fuel filter a couple of times to get all the junk out.

 

[2t2-crash]

I run the FASS 95 with an extra 100HP and it keeps up perfectly. In fact the fuel pressure doesn't drop at all even at WOT with a heavy load.
But I'd rather have the in-tank system.
Wither way you should be good to go but you may end up having to replace the fuel filter a couple of times to get all the junk out.

are FASS brand filters the only filters that fit this kit or are there other brands that work with it?

 

[Killer223]

lots of others that will fit. this list is rather outdated, but still good info.

 

[Prairie Dog]

are FASS brand filters the only filters that fit this kit or are there other brands that work with it?

I dont have the FASS filters, Just the pump.
I used the Glacier system for my extra filter and it uses common Fleetguard filters. I'm pretty sure the FASS does the same.

 

[2t2-crash]

I got some plastic shavings in my fuel tank that is full of fuel while installing the draw straw... F&$@!

 

[2t2-crash]

Up and running. No leaks, no creaks. I'll do a test run at speeds over 30mph tomorrow, maybe highway if all is well.

The install was fun... to put it in NCO speak: bolting that ***** to the frame was a mother****er.