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Thanks, I’ll give it a read. Mine’s a ‘96

From my reading, seems like I need a new, 29 spline mainshaft for the transmission and the corresponding 29 spline hub for the transfer case. Tcase is pretty simple and cheap, Trans is a little more involved. The one I have has no issues, do y’all think it’s best to modify it, or shop for a...

Part truck inbound

But I already have a 1996 4x4. I think taking my Dad for a ride in his Dad’s looooong defunct Ford with a twist is pricelesss.

Thanks, but the bellhousing (i think) would be fine as is. My concern is where the manual transmission and auto transfer case mate up. I won’t own an automatic. That’s what took me so long to find the two ‘96es. Only manuals need apply

What if my truck identifies as a 1968 Ford?

Delete, already said that

Thanks for the link. Good stuff, but I don’t think any of those issues will apply since I’ll be going ‘96 CTD into ‘96 V10. I’ll have both running trucks complete, so I believe I can just use the diesel dash and manual column etc. the part where my mind hits a roadblock is connecting my 2wd...

This is a complicated scenario, but here goes: I have an extra truck, ‘96 Cummins 2wd manual RCLB. I have been daydreaming about putting my 1968 F250 body on that frame. Cool, but way cooler if it was 4x4. So tonight I hear of a ‘96 V10 4x4 auto RCLB with bad engine and transmission for...

Thanks for the tip. If I can't find a replacement I may resort to Performance Modification. In a similar situation I have used a 1/8" hose barb to 1/16"pipe brass fitting. Just drill and tap the diaphragm housing then warm the brass a little just before screwing it into the plastic. edit: but...

Suez solution. Taxed without representation from fb group.

I put some Frost King duct insulation on my doors when I redid all that stuff. It’s foil faced, seems to work. I think it’s some part insulating and some just to stop clattering. In fact I did the whole cab floor, firewall and back wall with the same stuff. Comes in a 16” wide roll at the home...

Honestly, everything but the engine, transmission and axles on these trucks is cheap junk.

Both of mine are 96’s. The 2wd was garaged the first 15 years and only had one crack when I got it in 2018. I park outdoors and now it’s getting worse quickly. The green 4x4 was a GA Farm truck and never garaged. When I got it there was no dash left to speak of. I think the dashes are made...

I’m considering this for the locking hubs and big brakes and have seen lots of confusing/conflicting info about what’s involved. Anyone done it and remember the details? Is the tie rod taper really upside down?

I installed the driver's seat bottom parts from Geno's today. Easy install, nice quality. Now I can see how dingy the rest of my 21 year old upholstery is! I had to move the seat forward a notch because the new cushion made the seat higher enough that I couldn't mat the clutch. (I'm a short guy)...

Thanks! Drove it about 2 hours to visit kin, goes straight up to 100. No brake warning light, maybe that hickey was broken anyway?

By the way, the steering upgrade is amazing. I’ll have to learn to drive again in a truck where steering wheel inputs result in immediate changes of direction!

Yesterday for my birthday I gave myself the PSC steering box, Borgeson shaft and Rock Solid column bushing. During the install I broke the vacuum nipple off this gizmo on the left fenderwell just aft of the fuse box. It has a single vacuum supply to a diaphragm and an electrical plug.

Just a study in how mileage related to speed. Working up from the bottom- first tank is all interstate with cruise set at 70. Second tank is all 2-lane flat Florida, 55 mph. Third is mixed with some 55 and half the trip home at 65. Top line is from south Ga. home to Atlanta cruise at 65.