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Accumulator is the term and yes it matched the original one I removed I still have the old master cylinder and hydraboost to use for reference, I did notice some brownish gunk in the master cylinder Tao I replaced it as well bf flushed the lines with brake clean for several hours then flushed...

I’ve suspected that but it I’ll when I’m not touching the brakes and I’m on the accelerator

I haven’t thought of that although I did flush lines out when I put the new power steering pump on

Yes they were greased but I haven’t done it in awhile I put the new calipers on not quite a year ago and I’ve only put maybe 2500 miles on it truck has been in my shop for other repairs such as transfer case, new oil cooler, and sent my injectors off to be checked ended up with contaminated fuel...

Also sometimes it sits over night and cools and the issue is still there in the am. Not every time but it has happened and it was doing the same thing with original booster and master cylinder

I do all my own repairs, pedal rod has about 1/4 inch up and of travel I prob should double check it

04.5 2500 4 new rotors, new master cylinder from ray bestow, new booster, new front rubber lines, fluid flush. Brakes dragging I’ve replace the above even new calipers and problems went away for a couple months, they are back again pulled up at home used temp gun and checked all 4 rotors...

Cold start up 375egt Operating temp in drive @ idle 575-620 pulling off from stoplight 1100 easy

Today at idle in drive at red light

dfc quoted me 7,300 for a short block….

Thanks for the info. I sent them a email asking about a short block or long block 5.9 or 6.7

They range from 6,000 to 15,000. If money grew on trees that would be my plan but I’m not fortunate enough to have a money tree. My head is good, I have a new oil cooler, rockers, pushrods, cp3 valve springs etc basically my bottom is shot

Looking for a 5.9 or 6.7 to swap into my 2004.5. Getting ready to turn 400k and it’s getting winded and I’ve decided a motor swap is best for my wallet and I was wondering I someone here make have something I can use

So problem still there, but I’ve noticed the when the l oh ad factor and egts go up and boost goes down truck feels like it’s half powered and starts pulling to the right pretty hard. I will add that when I’m letting off the accelerator that hissing whooshing sound is there only at a certian...

It’s still acting stupid, tonight it wouldn’t even blow a puff of smoke on acceleration and still got u and going like normal egts about the same maybe a 200-300 cooler than the normal 900 degrees

What platform are you using?

I’ve also ordered a 67/67 turbo from stainless

Drove the truck some miles today and the farther into the drive the louder the engine got and sounded like I was pulling a 53ft reefer trailer, I’m having some injector/timing rattle too. I’m running some flux 100hp sac that I just got back from them after running test and rebuilding all 6.

Checked my timing and I’m -4 @ 1600 rpm on acceleration

Sometimes it feels like the front passenger is dragging but I’ve hit them with temp gun and all close to the same, front is a lil warmer than rear, I’ve also replace everything but the abs module and hard lines in the brake system. I’ve been told the converter can cause what I’m experiencing