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I would start with the power distribution center. There's a big connector on the bottom side of it that can get screwed up. (especially if you power wash your engine compartment) Disconnect the negatives on your battery and pull it out. My '03 is halfway cut up and parted out, but I'm pretty...

Huh? Both of those pics are my trucks. (or are they not showing up?)

I've always liked the Hummer H2 rims. I've bought a few sets for very cheap, back when new take-offs were plentiful. The local welding shop soda blasted them and powdercoated them pretty reasonably. I've got photos of them black, but they're sort of hard to see. This one set had nearly new tires...

Looks like they're just dif cover bolts. You could probably pull one out and find something close enough at a hardware store. Another option would be a junkyard.

You should be able to. I wrote a post about BOMBing the multifunction switch for a free Brite Box effect. To modify the switch, I had to get it out. I pulled the wheel, but then realized just turning the wheel 90° gave me enough room to access the scrcews without removing the airbag and wheel...

Do it! After breaking my 2nd rear window, I ordered the replacemant, but told myself I couln't install it until I bought or made a headache rack. After seeing how lousy the cheap ones are, and how stupid-spendy the good ones are, I decided to make my own. I bought square tube and expanded metal...

I don't know about mounting, but the shape of the box is is sort of different and may cause you some problems. The new trucks have a very rounded backside, so the bed of the truck hooks forward to fill the gap. I was hoping to adapt a dump hoist under mine, but I'd either have to make it slide...

Disproportionate disbursement demanded of dirty diesels.

Everything was tight and the truck rode fine, I just had a bound up U joint that I could feel on sharper turns. Within weeks of replacing it, I had a vibration and had play in the lower joint on that side. Your power steering becomes a sort of hydraulic press and its fulcrum is your poor...

I've never owned an auto before this. It seems like the shifts are a little vague at times. We live on a one-lane road that winds up a steep hill to our gate. As I start to head up it downshifts, but sometimes dropping to first feels like a delayed (slipping?) transition. It sort of jerks on...

I'm hanging on to my NV5600 and related parts just in case....

My truck only has about the miles, but I got a scare one day; shifted into reverse after startup and nothing happened. (long delay before engaging/moving) Somebody said it sounded like the torque converter drained and the fluid and filters should be replaced. Seeing that there was no drain...

So is it an electronic dash knob for 4x4, or the mechanical floor shift? When you say he replaced shift motor, I'm guessing you mean on the transfer case. (because the axles don't disengage anymore, right?)

I'd much rather replace a U-joint than the ball joints. Using the power steering method finished off my lower ball joint on my old truck and I've talked to a couple others that have done the same.

It popped mine out too, but a few weeks later I was having to replace ball joints. It puts an incredible amount of lateral pressure on them. (especially in in rust belt areas)

Get yourself a puller, they can be tough to remove (especially with salt exposure) and a bunch of pounding/prying can damage other components. In my opinion, you can use the power steering, but then you might as well replace your ball joints at the same time.

I sent mine off to someone who needed a cluster and other interior parts.

LOL, those look familiar. They may be mine. At some point I realized the repair manual instructions had a bunch of extra steps. (you don't need to remove the wheel like it says)

I don't know for sure if they're the same, but I have one from my '03 sitting in my barn...

OK, that's a different method of draining the front axle oil. :confused: