0-35 psi Fuel Pressure Auto Meter Gauge

[EMDDIESEL]

If you could use a high quality transfer switch, then yes, you could use one fuel pressure gauge to monitor both pre and post filter pressure. And i dont see any reason why you could'nt use a similar setup to check boost say, pre intercooler and post intercooler, but the readings would likley be the same and regardless are of no use to you, but sure, it could be done.

 

[dieselboy25]

Here is what I did. Started with an Autometer Ultralite mechanical fuel pressure gauge 0-15 psi (thanks ADT). I mounted it in the top hole of my three-gauge pillar mount. I ran a 4’ section of 4AN braided brake line down by the fuse box and out through the grommet. I then got a section of standard black fuel line and ran from the post filter screw to the firewall. The break line reached just through the firewall into the engine compartment. I used all brass fittings. This system cost me a total of 72 bucks with a really nice gauge. It is very possible to run a pure mechanical system through the pillar. With the brass fittings and the braided brake line I have no concerns about leaking diesel in the cab. I have checked the system several times. Just my thoughts.

Eric

 

[illflem]

cap-n-cray, Larry B, who hasn't posted here in while, used a electric fuel tank valve to switch one gauge to exhaust back pressure when his E- brake was on to boost when it was off. The electric switching was done by the E- brake switch. Said it worked great for him, don't see why it couldn't also be done for fuel pressure. I personally don't think it's worth the hassle though since I'm a firm believer that you only need a post fuel filter pressure reading as long as you can remember what your pre-filter reading is with a fresh filter.

 

[CumminsAholic]

I did my gauge the same way as Eric, but I ran the 4an line from the gauge all the way to the filter. It will fit, it's tough, but it'll go. So I have a gauge that's rated for diesel fuel and doesn't need an isolator. Cost me about $60 for the line and I didn't even put it together. Thanks (Diesel) Doug. Now if it only went to 35 psi...

 

[Briar Hopper]

When my AutoMeter fuel pressure sending unit went out (a few months ago), it was not the electrical box that messed up, it was the sending unit itself. The diaphragm blew out completely, sending fuel through the orange outer sheath of the wires, into my truck cab. I noticed a drip of fuel coming from under the dash, onto my floor mat, one day, after arriving at a construction site I was working at. I FREAKED, when I realized it was diesel, no lines into the cab at all... freak occurence, I guess...

Doug, Andy, sure would appreciate some help getting sending units that will last. Can I contact you guys if and when the one I have now fails? A few other members in here have had theirs fail, I can't remember who. Wish they would speak up...

 

[SmokinRam]

Tom,



You can definitely contact us if you have any problems with your sending unit. We are currently doing quite a bit of research on developing a durable, long lasting fuel pressure gauge setup for everyone.



Like Doug mentioned before, right now there is three possibilities. Mechanical with isolator, electrical with sending unit, and strictly mechanical.



I think most people agree that the best solution is a good electrical gauge, but the sending units currently available have their down falls. Vibration problems, diaphragm problems... . and the list goes on...



We're working on it and hope to have a solution soon for everyone.



Like Tom said, there are quite a few other members out there who are experiencing fuel pressure gauge problems. Speak up and tell us your problems. The only way we can defelop a solution to the problems is to identify all of the problems first.

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

I know that there are a ton of people out there running the Stewart Warner electric gauge setup that I am (because XK's parts has been confused why all these diesel guys are ordering gauges from them! They were back ordered for a while because of it). I've only heard of one or two failures of the sending units and every one I've heard of the sending units were mounted directly on the engine, not remotely. The cost of the gauge w/2 senders, a switch, and the miscellaneous hardware (piece of aluminum for a bracket, hose clamps, hose, barb fittings, experimenters box, and a gauge cup) to mount it is under $100. The senders cases are all metal (as opposed to partially plastic with the autometer senders). If anyone has had a failure of the Stewart Warner senders with them remotely mounted please speak up. They have a number of different gauge faces available, black bezel, silver bezel, different colored faces, etc - so you can probably get a close match for your existing gauges. My gauge is a very close match for the Pricol boost and EGT gauges I have mounted in my truck. I mounted mine down below the dash while my other gauges are up on the a-pillar so even if it wasn't an exact match it really wouldn't bother me.



I'm not trying to knock what you guys are trying to do here, just letting people know that there does seem to be a good cheap electric gauge option out there if that's what people want. Anyone who's had trouble with their SW setup please speak up.

 

[illflem]

Steve, my two senders that died were S-W, but have a 12 valve. Both were remote mounted, not on the engine, second one also had a gauge snubber. I think the fuel pressures on a 24 valve are much smoother so you can get away with an electric gauge.

 

[Joe G.]

Have any of you tried to remote mount the sender and used a snubber before the electical sender to dampen the pressure spikes? I have my snubber for my mechanical gauge set up with a grease gun hose (thanks Bill) from the engine to the fender well with the snubber on the end of that. If you mounted the electrical sender on the end of the snubber it would not be subject to engine vibration and the pressure spikes would be minimized.

 

[illflem]

Joe, that's what I tried on my second sender, it still only lasted a few months.

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

I've been trying to get through to the XK's parts website for a while now - it's been down all night. I don't remember there being an electric gauge beyond the 0-16 range. Illflem - did they have a gauge that was rated for the fuel pressure range of a 12v? I think you need it in the 35-40 range for the 12v, correct? Regardless, monitoring the lift pump pressures on the 12v isn't nearly as critical on the 24v trucks and you are definately dealing with higher pressures and I believe bigger pulses.



-Steve

 

[Joe G.]

Bill,



I was wondering if the 24V guys had tied that set up. It might work for them with lower pressures and less bang from the spikes.



I think you told me that the pressure spikes on a 12V would thrash an electric sender. My mechanical guage works just fine. I had to add a needle valve to help the stubber. The clacking from the gauge was driving my wife nuttier. Other than that it's exactly like you suggested. I have it damped down now so that there is just a little needle wiggle and no noise. The grease gun hose is really neat. 1/8" NPT on both ends and diesel can't hurt it.

 

[illflem]

Steve, the S-K gauge I used was 60 psi, it was something my local Napa guys found in their storeroom that looked like it had been there for 20 years, part number didn't even cross in their computer, they gave me a deal.



Joe, is your snubber/needle valve the first thing in line from your hook up point? Reason I ask is that I tried putting the GG hose right on my banjo bolt followed by the snubber. The hose itself pulsated so bad I could hear it the in the cab and thought it was going to break. Put the snubber right on the banjo bolt and it smoothed right out. This was before I replaced the overflow valve, which may have contributed to the pulseing. Grease gun hoses are a great way to go, most are rated at 10,000 psi, cheap also.

 

[SLang]

Cap-n-Cray, what's the lastest on getting an order put together?

 

[Joe G.]

Bill,



I will have to change my setup then. I have the GG hose screwed into the banjo bolt and then the snubber. I couldn't hear it if it was playing drums under the hood so it may be making a real racket. Thanks.

 

[cap-n-cray]

Lack of interest

Well, it seems that there is little interest in a 0-35 fuel pressure gauge in the configuration that I had suggested. With only 4 requested for gauges the cost would be an additional $37. 50 plus cost of the gauge. I am going to use a 0-35 boost gauge with isolator and re-label it with tape to fuel pressure. I will post my results when available. I was contacted by the Auto Meter contact, he said he would be avalible in the future if there was a need.

 

[EMDDIESEL]

I am using a 0-35psi mechanical boost gauge with Braided stainless steel line. You really dont need an isolator with such low pressure non volitale fuel.

 

[cap-n-cray]

EMD,



I order my gauges today and was told by the guy at Fast Lane West that he did not recommend using a boost or air pressure gauge with any type of fluid other than air. He said that Auto Meter did not recommemed it. He suggested that I call Auto Meter first. He would sell me anything I wanted.



I called Auto Meter's customer service and was told the same thing. The isolator uses anti-freeze as the second fluid. Auto Meter's customer service said that anti-freeze or any other fluid should not be used with a air or boost pressure gauge. I was only going to use a isolator as a percaution. I think that diesel does not pose a problem of fire, only a mess. Auto Meter did say that running a 0-15 PSI gauge above 15 PSI was not advisable. I was ready to order a second 0-35 boost gauge as a fuel gauge, but was talked out of it. I agree that the braided stainless steel line is the best way to go. I think that a good installation would limit the chance of leaks. I think as a contractor and after restoring many vehicles, I could do it. The first guy I talked to at Auto Meter was in the sale department. He was going to make up the special fuel gauges for us.



My main reason for wanting to use a boost gauge as a fuel pressure guage is to keep all the gauges similar. Have you had any problems with your installation? This seem way to complicated for just a fuel gauge. Auto Meters customer service said that the 0-100 PSI Electric Fuel Pressure gauge was very accurate down to 1 PSI, but if the pressure will never reach above 35 PSI, why would I need the high scale. Would there ever be a need for a gauge pressure above 35 PSI? Perhalps a helper pump? I have read many threads about problems with lift pumps. Is it better to install a helper pump now, to help the lift pump?



I plan to order a boost gauge as soon as I get my first boost gauge and look at it.

 

[vc]

Have you guys tried Westach? I had talked to them some time back about a Fuel Pressure gauge that was in the 35psi range and they said they had what we needed including an electric sender that was made for thr diesel application. Like I said it's been a while since I talked to them and don't remember what the prices were, but di recall they had two different sending units which made a big difference in price. The higher priced sender they all but garrantied would not pulsate at all.



vc

 

[EMDDIESEL]

Sounds like mass confusion, all i know is i talked to 2 different tech guys at Autometer and both RECCOMENDED i use a 0-35psi boost gauge instead of a 100psi fuel pressure gauge since i did not need that high a range. They also said that ALL there high end pressure gauges (Sport Comp, Ultra Lite, etc) use the same insides, just different faces, whether it be Boost, Oil Pressure, Fuel pressure, etc. My friend has been using a boost gauge as oil pressure gauge for over a year now. Find out who you talked to at Autometer and let me know. I am running a boost gauge and no isolator with no fear, neither should you. Just sounds like alot of missinformation.