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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) '00 24valve cut out.

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my friend has a 2000 Ram 3500 service bed. i think its a 00 cause its a five speed, not the six speed. and its got the black valve cover. anyhow, its sat for i dont no how long. i think possibly a year. only has 120k miles on her. i told him we should take her out to keep it fresh. we did. it ran great. he called me today and said it left him on the side of the road the other day.



he thought it was out of fuel and the guage was just off. he got more diesel and put it in. said it wouldnt start, just cranked. he asked if he needed to bleed the lines?



this sound to me like the truck has plent of fuel in the TANK, but its not gettin to the vp44. could this be lift pump failure?



-what can i do to check the lift pump, or the injector pump. (are there certain lines i can crack to check presure?)



-could it be a computer problem?



- what should i look for when i get there tomaro?
 
the 24v trucks have a drain on the fuel filter canister. you should be able to open that drain valve and crank it. see if any fuel is coming out. most of the trucks (depends on software load, IIRC) you can bump the starter without cranking the engine and see if the lift pump attempts to pressurize the fuel lines.

if you are going to crack a line, do one of the injector lines. the vp44 has a feed and return line so it will ATTEMPT to self-prime if the lift pump pressure is present. after changing the fuel filter on the 24v trucks, often you have to run the starter bump sequence a few times before attempting to start the truck to allow any air to pass back to the tank BEFORE the injector lines need fuel.

just my two cents and experience!
 
so if i open the drain on the fuel filter, and no fuel comes out, than i know that the lift pump is dead and the system is dry after the lift pump?



and if i crack an injector, do i do it at the top of the head, right where the line is threaded to the actual injector, or do i crack it somewhere else?

and how much should i crack it?



also, by bump the starter, i assume you mean, use the ignition switch to give the starter a momentary surge, but not enough to crank in over?

thanks a bunch
 
the lift pump is on the driver's side of the engine near the back about even with the head height. crack a line where the line goes into the head (easiest access). how much to crack it? between a quarter and a half turn should do it. you are correct about the starter bump technique-- ignition on, quick turn to the start position just to allow the pump to run and switch back to run.
 
Be careful cracking the injector lines ,keep hands and fingers away. There is lots of pressure there and fuel can penatrate the skin and give you some nasty problems.
 
I didnt see this mentioned, but if it has been sitting for a year, I bet he plugged up the filters with algea. If diesel sits, it grows some weird stuff in it. I bet if he pulls the filter it will be solid black. If it is, he may have plugged up the screen on the pickup in the tank. Might have to toss some conditioner in the tank or even empty it.
 
galen, im not as familiar with the 24valve lift pumps as i am with the 1st gens. on the 1st gens, ther is one line into the top of the lift pump(from the tank) and one line out the top of the lift pump(to the IP). i assume you mean to crack the one that is sending fuel to the IP? if not, than i am confused.



those 24valves only have one fuel filter right? is there any way to phisically clean the screen in the tank?



thanks 4 the help guys this is great to know. ill probly be doing this on the side of the highway so all the tips are very helpfully to make it hopefully a sucess. i want to drive that truck back to the farm, not tow it :)
 
Well I dont want to over step anyone just my 2 cents. pull the fuel filter 1-1/8th socket replace it. probley plugged from sitting. turn the key over w/out starting the truck the starter will just chirp. when you do this your lift-pump should be attempting to bring fuel from tank to injec-pump. if you have fuel going to the fuel filter than it going to the injection pump. . crack open the injector line on #1 cyl if you just crack it or open it up all the way doesnt matter. attempt to cycle the key and move fuel forward (if the lift pump is working) keep doing this you should see fuel come out of the #1 inj line. it may take 5-10 cycles pending how low the fuel was or is. . you said the truck was running and then it left him on the road. so it could be crap in the tank the filter... etc. . by the way if you cycle the key forward to on and back 3 times leaving the key in the on position on the last cycle you should see if there is any codes that were thrown on the truck this will appear lower left digital odometer area.



2002 HO 6-SPD LB 4X4 QC HTT 62/14 SB-FE SMARTY TST PM3 MACH 4'S, RINGED AND STUDS, AFE/2:eek: "SILVERLINE D/PRICOL PYRO,BOOST,FUEL FASS 150, VULCAN 1/2 DRAW-STRAW, VULCAN 3/8 FUEL LINE AND FITTINGS, DSS 03 TRAC-BAR DSS BOX TURN-OVER BALL, RIDE RITE AIR BAGS. SUPPORT 17'' KMC BLACK HOSS, 315/70/17 MICKTHOM BMTZ'S 6" RCD LONG ARM LIFT AND DE-BADGED FOR FUEL MILEAGE. :-laf
 
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