'01 ETC Oil/Fuel Filter Change

[Jar Head]

If you don't want an oil sample and have a large container, an oil change is not messy. Otherwise the Geno's no touch drain valve or something similar may be the way to go. A five gallon pail fit easily under my 4X4.
A strap wrench for the filter is the only way to go; my filter came right off. The one gallon zip lock storage bag is the best trick of all; not a drop spilled. Close your eyes when you put the new oil filter on. The filter adapter is not straight up and down. Close your eyes and put it on by feel and it goes right on.
My owners manual says 10 qts. in the pan and 1 qt. for the filter. I filled the oil to the top mark on the dipstick and have a splash left in my third gallon of oil that wasn't even worth saving. So for all intents and purposes, my truck holds almost exactly three gallons of oil w/ a filter change.
The fuel filter is easy. Do NOT pay someone to do this for you. Unscrew the lid and the filter comes out with it. Pop the filter off the lid and pop the new one back on. Screw the lid back on. I did not bump the starter. All I did was turn the key on, take the cap off the Schrader (sp) Valve and stuck it with a small screwdriver to purge the air. Shut key off then did this a three times. On the third time, no air came out. I did not use a torque wrench to tighten anything and nothing is leaking. I did not prime anything with fuel. The truck fired right off and hasn't missed a beat. The old fuel filter was dirtier than I thought it would be so now I will swap it out with every oil change.
I will use DELO 400 15w40 from now until the time I sell the truck. Fleetguard filters on everything.
I changed the air filter too but that is so easy I won't embarass anyone by explaining the procedure.
I was going to check/drain the crankcase breather bottle but it looked like a pain to take that nut off so to hell with it, let oil drain out the hole, that's what it's there for. Anyways, I like it when my truck stinks of diesel.

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Made in Mexico: 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 HD 4x4, Regular Cab ST, ETC, Auto, 4. 10 LSD, Camper Package, Trailer Package, 100% Stock.

 

[HC]

My fuel filter lid was very difficult to remove, and even after breaking it loose I still needed a wrench to continue screwing it off. Then I almost couldn't get it back on; needed a second set of hands to turn the wrench while I held the lid down. Any other process resulted in instant cross-threading. Closer examination shows bad threads on the filter housing are causing my problems.

Does anybody else have this problem?
(2001 ETH)

 

[Jar Head]

I agree that it is very easy to cross-thread the cap. The secret is to push the filter in so far so the first thread on the cap touches the housing then apply only enough pressure to get the threads started. Let the spinning on of the cap push the filter in the housing. The cap will spin, the filter will not. This is how I did it when I noticed how easy it was to strip the threads. I'm going to the dealer tomorrow so I can have a spare.

 

[John]

BadArseRam, I don't think the strap wrench is "the only way to go". In fact, I purchased the strap wrench from Cummins and used it exactly ONE time. While you are still trying to figure out which way to orient the strap I'll have the filter off (about 10-15 seconds TOTAL if I don't use the plastic bag trick)... with my slip-joint style filter pliers I purchased from Griot's Garage. Similar versions can also be purchased from Snap-On, Wal-Mart and through JC Whitney (just to name several sources). I have yet to see a more expedient method of oil filter removal.

PS: If anyone wants to purchase my once used Cummins filter strap wrench let me know.

 

[Fireman Dave]

HC:

I did my first fuel filter change last weekend. No problems with threads. Mine's an ETC.

Dave

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2001 2500; SLT; 4x4; QC; LWB; Auto; 3. 54 LS; 265s; Camper; Tow; Sliding Rear Window; Travel Convenience Group; Cab Clearance Lamps; Forest Green