03 5.9 California truck

[AH64ID]

The turbo swap is fairly common and I only hear good things about it. The compressor is the big difference, both turbos use a 58mm exducer on the turbine.

 

[BlackBullit]

This makes more sense now, because my stock turbo went out last fall and we had one off an '06. I was gonna just take the intake housing off the old one (cause of the electronic wastegate) and swap it on the '06 one but didn't fit cause the compressor wheel was bigger. I had to crimp the wastegate hose off to make it push over 20psi. So far the setup has been running great, and it runs way cooler too.

 

[JJPage]

The turbo swap is fairly common and I only hear good things about it. The compressor is the big difference, both turbos use a 58mm exducer on the turbine.

I can't remember squat...unless I write it down somewhere, I out of luck anymore. My notes state 341 = 54/58/9, 351 = 60/60/9, so are these not correct?

 

[AH64ID]

I can't remember squat...unless I write it down somewhere, I out of luck anymore. My notes state 341 = 54/58/9, 351 = 60/60/9, so are these not correct?

The 351 is commonly called a 60/60/9 and even Holset gave me specs that say that but the replacement wheels are all 58 on the exdcucer. I have found more recent info showing it to be a 65x58mm wheel.



I just remembered I have a HE351 turbine and compressor wheel in the garage... Now just to get a few min to measure.

 

[JJPage]

I just remembered I have a HE351 turbine and compressor wheel in the garage... Now just to get a few min to measure.

It would require more than a few minutes for me to even find my calipers...:-laf, They are in MT, or WA, or my trailer, moving my tools and personals back to Spokane, everythings in disarray, but starting to shape up.

 

[Lordsman]

Lucky,
I have a 235 hp '03 (non-California) so I dont know what additional emissions yours may have that mine doesn't.
I thought it was a dog in stock form. So now I'm running Smarty Jr on performance/towing (sw2), which gets better mileage that sw1. I'm at 90 or so on the POD. No additional timing added cuz it has plenty with just a little bit of excess rattle I get about 18.3 mpg, but I'm loaded for work with ladder rack, ladders, rail tool boxes, tools, etc...
You'll get the 305 upgrade as soon as you load the software the first time and you can go from there if you want the Smarty....I like the way it runs now good power n pull.
I added a 4" air intake into bottom of air box to air dam area and using the large deep Mopar air filter Geno's sells. I don't peg the filter minder any more like before.
I would like to add a BD exhaust brake soon but it has the 3.5" exhaust instead of 4" so I may need to upgrade that too.
Good luck!

 

[AH64ID]

I am pretty sure all 235hp motors are California, the 250 was the SO non-Cali.

Have you tried TM4? The way the JR tunes if you are on stock timing the mileage gains will be the same for all 3 softwares.

With a manual you can drop to PoD 85 and not lose any power.

SW2 is towing, SW3 is performance.

 

[JJPage]

With a manual you can drop to PoD 85 and not lose any power.

I'm fairly certain you won't lose any power (@wot) with an auto by running the POD down to 85, but the auto shift pattern will be altered, along with throttle sensitivity, and not for the better imo.

Did you measure the wheels on that HE351 ?

Jess

 

[AH64ID]

Correct, the shift pattern is the key for an auto with PoD.

I haven't, I forgot I put it in the attic and need to climb up there.

 

[AH64ID]

So I do finally grabbed the wheel down and measured. It is a 65x58mm wheel. This is the stock wheel from my dads 2006 5.9 HE351CW. We had a 70x60mm wheel put in last summer, and I got the old one back.

On a side note the 70x60mm wheel upgrade made a huge difference, it's now a much better turbo. There is less cruise boost, better flow, better sound, and I can only assume drive pressure is down.

 

[JJPage]

Thanks John, That's really interesting about the size discrepancy that is provided by Holset/Chrysler and Actual size. Trade secrets? seems ridiculous with something so easily proved otherwise.

All the different single turbos, and my current compound setup produced/produces less cruise boost than the stock (HE341) turbo. I understand why this occurs, no confusion there, how can less cruise boost be better than higher cruise boost? That part baffles me, same throttle position, fuel supplied, etc, let say cruising with a smaller turbo you can cruise with 12/15# boost, upgrade to a slightly larger turbo and cruise boost drops to 0/8# boost (all other situations create higher boost), how does that help anything...less back pressure is all I can assume...

I have actively applied different options with Smarty trying to get my cruise boost higher, less timing helps, in fact running standard Revo vs TNT produces higher boost while cruising. That is why I know you could combine the lower timing of Revo at less throttle, with the higher timing of TNT with more throttle position, using UDC to achieve a quicker throttle response...

I like the cruise boost being higher, it's like the chargers are always "on", throttle response is instant. I used to spin the crap out of the SPS62 I was running, no lag, truck would start easing sideways with almost any additional throttle...dangerous maybe... but fun. So other than mpg efficiency maybe..is there a good reason, or an advantage to having cruise boost lower?

Jess

 

[AH64ID]

Less cruise boost means less restriction, so less exhaust back pressure and thus easier flow thru the cylinders and less power lost to pumping the exhaust out.

Yep that is the beauty of UDC, proper timing for the fueling on the entire map.. not just a part of it.

I fell that even with lower cruise boost the response is still instant, even with the stock cam in my dad's 06.

 

[JJPage]

Less cruise boost means less restriction, so less exhaust back pressure and thus easier flow thru the cylinders and less power lost to pumping the exhaust out.

Yep that is the beauty of UDC, proper timing for the fueling on the entire map.. not just a part of it.

I figured lower/less back pressure was the advantage, but is it just an unintended consequence to proper timing, or are you manipulating the timing to actually lower cruise boost for efficiency? I realize I am asking a question that depends on the tune you are building, whether it be an "economy" performance tune or a "race/wot" performance tune, the latter not really being concerned with mpg...

I have really missed/missing out on a lot of fun not utilizing my UDC. I understand it's not all fun and games, staring at those charts and trying to keep track of the different mods the truck you are tuning has to be mind numbing, even with the calculator you built, along with your tech knowledge, it has to become more of a chore than a pleasure. Good job on your UDC contributions, I've enjoyed learning from your post's. Jess

 

[AH64ID]

Timing and rail pressure can have impacts on cruise boost, as will turbo/cam design.

Yes UDC is a lot of work, but worth it.