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'03 Headgasket

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CP3 pulley removal

Just some info (long post)

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Hey everyone, I just joined the 3rd gen club today. I found a '03 2500 reg cab, 6sp, 4x4, 112K with a bad headgasket. Guy I bought it from said that he had a neighbor/mechanic put a headgasket on but that the guy failed to resurface the head. :-{} I have successfully replaced a headgasket in a '93 motor and I do have a service manual for an '03. With all that said, do any of ya'll have any tips, tricks, advice, words of encouragement or anything else that might help me out along the way, I would greatly appreciate it.
 
It is fairly straight forward. Do you have an engine hoist or are you going to get a couple of friends to help lift it off? The hoist is the best way to save your back and frustration. There are holes in the cowl to pull the push rods up. Pull the exhaust and turbo as an assembly. Then remove the head. Check the block and head for flatness and machine as necessary.



Since you don't know the engine history pay attention to this tech tip from TechConnect.

Reference the service manual, Group 9 (Cummins Diesel engine) Piston & Connecting Rod Standard Procedure - Head Gasket Selection There are two different 'standard' head gaskets, one-hole and two-hole. If the average piston protrusion is less than 0. 30 mm (0. 011 inch) use the one-hole Head gasket which is 1. 18 mm (0. 046 inch) thick. If the average piston protrusion is equal to or more than 0. 30 mm (0. 011 inch) use the two-hole Head gasket which is 1. 28 mm (0. 050 inch) thick.



This is from the service manual for inspection of head and block.

Inspect the cylinder head for cracks in the combustion surface. Pressure test any cylinder head that is visibly cracked. A cylinder head that is cracked between the injector bore and valve seat can be pressure tested and reused if OK; however, if the crack extends into the valve seat insert bore, the cylinder head must be replaced.

Visually inspect the cylinder block and head combustion surfaces for localized dips or imperfections. Check the cylinder head and block combustion surfaces for overall out-of-flatness. If either the visual or manual inspection exceeds the limits, then the head or block must be surfaced.

Check the top surface for damage caused by the cylinder head gasket leaking between cylinders.

Inspect the block and head surface for nicks, erosion, etc.

Check the head distortion. Maximum overall variation end to end is 0. 305 mm (0. 012 inch), and maximum overall variation side to side 0. 076 mm ( . 003 in. ).

DO NOT proceed with the in-chassis overhaul if the cylinder head or block surface is damaged or not flat (within specifications).

Check block surface for distortion. Maximum variation end-to-end is 0. 076 mm ( . 003 in. ), side-to-side 0. 051 mm (. 002).

Visually inspect the cylinder head bolts for damaged threads, corroded/pitted surfaces, or a reduced diameter due to bolt stretching.

If the bolts are not damaged, their “free length” should be measured using the cap screw stretch gauge provided with the replacement head gasket. Place the head of the bolt against the base of the slot and align the bolt with the straight edge of gauge . If the end of the bolt touches the foot of the gauge, the bolt must be discarded. The maximum bolt free length is 132. 1 mm (5. 200 in. ).
 
when i pull the cylinder head off my truck, i leave the ex manifold and the top turbo attached, lifts right out with an engine hoist, don't forget you have a fuel return line on the rear of the cylinder head, also cap off all open fuel lines asap, it only takes a little dirt to take out an injector good luck
 
I left the ex manifold, and fuel rail attached. If you're careful not to damage them the injectors can be left in the head and attached to the rail.
 
Thanks guys for the info, I do have a hoist that I'll be using. I was also planning on leaving the valves and injectors in until it is on the bench.
 
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