03 needs U-Joints

[MarkEagleUSA]

Pretty sure it's time for u-joints on the rear driveshaft. I can see clean, shiny metal at the cups and there's a "squeak" in reverse.

Having trouble locating a part number...

03 QCSB, 5.9, 47RE, 165k+, 1-piece driveshaft w/front damper.

Should I stick with OEM or is there an acceptable aftermarket part?

 

[GCroyle]

Can you identify if it's an AAM?

If AAM I got my parts from AAM parts from https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/

 

[AH64ID]

I would stick with sealed AAM u-joints.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

Can you identify if it's an AAM?

How can I tell?

 

[GCroyle]

Expect and hope for other replies but this is my AAM. See the 8 digit number, it follows the format on this AAM Bill of Material I clipped

 

[mwilson]

PM your full VIN....

 

[GCroyle]

On my 2 pc 2005 the joints were the 1485's

 

[mwilson]

Chrysler numbers…by your VIN

Top number is a “Value” U-Joint

Bottom is OEM replacement.

 

[mwilson]

And this is the non greasable one that Spicer offers which is said to be a true replacement.


https://www.drivetrainamerica.com/5...tiZWdhteDkAKPPsMAJDfRBj8dYC43_4AaAqMNEALw_wcB

 

[Ozymandias]

1485 on a 2003? That's weird as I have 1415 in a 2004 short wheel base.

1485 is the front knuckle u-joint.

And to exchange these joints is hit or miss, even the AAM u-joints are not true to the measure they should have. I wasted a lot of time trying to make my driveshaft work again.
Today I'd buy a whole new aluminum shaft within a blink of an eye. No way I'd go through that hassle again.

 

[GCroyle]

1485 on a 2003?

1485 is the front knuckle u-joint.

I installed 3 of the AAM 1485 on my 2005 QCSB two piece shaft.

 

[mwilson]

Ozy is correct, I just did a deep dive at lunch. I corrected the Spicer image above.

1485 series seem to be used in the MANUAL trucks.

1415 series in the automatics.

Using Mark's VIN and then crossing the OEM Joint Part Number brings you to a 1415 series.

After spending some quality time with the Spicer group there are also some 3rd Gen Dodge Ram's running around with a Spicer 1410 Series driveline. I wonder if these are the occasional ones that pop up where people have claimed that a 1410 series joint fit their trucks...I remember a few episodes of that over the last 15 years or so...

 

[GCroyle]

I never claimed to have identified the joints needed for this thread.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

Are the 2 u-joints on the driveshaft the same? I'm guessing both should be replaced if I'm taking the shaft out?

 

[Ozymandias]

Yes they are, but just make a 100% sure what is in your truck, like Mike said, it's a mess.

 

[mwilson]

I never claimed to have identified the joints needed for this thread.

I didn’t take it that way at all Gary. This is extremely confusing the way it was done by Mopar.
I think the only safe way to identify the correct joints is by VIN especially with a few 1410 variants floating around.

 

[mwilson]

Are the 2 u-joints on the driveshaft the same? I'm guessing both should be replaced if I'm taking the shaft out?

Yes, do both while it’s out..

 

[GCroyle]

Mike,

Agreed you need the VIN, mileage driven but in KM units, gallons of fuel in tank, tire brand with tread depth and what radio station the preset is on button 1 to pick correct U-Joints.

Then the brand of hammer head and it's weight, wood type in the handle, brand of vise, brand of beer and weight of the installer to do the job.

And lastly you count the total number of cups, divide by 6 multiply by .5 and that's how many Band-Aids the job requires. Mine was a One Band-Aid job.

And now back to our usual programming.

Gary

 

[mwilson]

Usually two bandaids for me..

 

[Blakers]

I've used 351 joints on my 03 since new. Same joint on both ends of the one piece driveshaft.