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03 needs U-Joints

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Anti-theft

Dirty Evap

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I have seen Spicer send multiple shim sizes with their U joints. Even the OEM Motorcraft universals (Spicers) came with 2 shim packs.
 
I have seen Spicer send multiple shim sizes with their U joints. Even the OEM Motorcraft universals (Spicers) came with 2 shim packs.

I've seen them to back then, but they are 1410 and won't fit, no matter which rings one uses.
 
Wait a minute, ya mean I wasted time marking, labeling, getting service tools, modifying a socket, making an assembly holder tool for NOTHING!!!!!!!!

My hammer collection is pretty ticked off at me missing a golden opportunity to draw blood.



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I envy you guys and your rust free problems :D :D The salt and year round humidity welds them buggers solid around here if they've been together any length of time....

I found it's easiest to cut the cross out with a 6" deli wheel and press the cups out one at a time. Much less stress on the ears at that point.
 
JR,

Next week it might seek some revenge. Coolant and ALL new hoses even them little short ones.

And after that it’s timing belt #4 on my Beetle but it only has 440K. The entire pass side of engine junk comes off. Special service tools and a PC to check and set pump timing. Yup been there, ruined a few T shirts.

And my AAM 1485 joints all 3 fit. No mods other than a little bit of positioning the cup to get clips seated into grooves.

Gary
 
TB # 4? Impressive! Still on original rotating mass? I'm still working on TB #3. My vnt has been on the outs for a few years now. After extensive testing I came to the conclusion my cartridge is worn out. Just gotta keep the skinny pedal off the floor long term or I get a limp mode. No biggie for me. It's just a plant car. A to B.
 
My son and I changed the u-joints on his 2007 2500 4WD over July 4th weekend and did not remove the drive shift from the truck. I did the same thing with a GMC 1500. Transmission and rear end make good holders for the yokes. I have a u-joint press tool and there is plenty of room. We replaced one end at at a time.
 
Are there 3rd gens without AAM?

AAM debuted in 03 on the dodge truck platform, why a truck would be a one off from the assembly line with anything other than AAM I'm not sure. In a perfect world we can assume the bare minimum from reading the vin build sheet.
 
FedEx delivered my u-joints earlier today. Just got home and put the truck on jack stands. Unfortunately we have t-storms moving in so it will be tomorrow before I can get to it.

Here's 2 labels I found: first is from the driveshaft, second is from the right-hand axle tube. I can't find any other identifying markings on either.

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Didn’t realize that there where any Spicer driveshafts. Was that only in 03? Or all 3rd gens?

From what I know it can happen with any 3rd gen. Seems that AAM couldn't keep up with the demand for driveshafts from then DC.
And so Spicer was to fill the gap.
 
Good news, bad news...

Good news: it was a siezed bearing. Cup totally dry and needles were broken.

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At 166,598 miles I guess thats not too bad.

The bad news is that during removal, the outer face of the driveshaft yoke got peened over by the ball joint/u-joint tool I borrowed from the parts store. The outer lip that holds the snap ring got rolled down, so much so that the new cup wouldn't go in.

I got creative and put the cup in from the inside and then pushed it into place. Got the opposite cup in place and installed the snap ring on that side. With the amount of peen over I don't think the cup will move or come out. I'm going to run it as is and check it again in a day or two.

It also appears that the Spicer u-joint doesn't fit my shaft. It went into the rear yoke just fine but it doesn't appear that it would allow both snap rings to fit on the driveshaft yoke. That being the case, and combined with the peen over, I decided not to change the front joint. I'll return the other Spicer part and order the OEM one assuming the rear red neck repair holds.

If not, I guess I'll go to a local driveshaft shop and see what a new yoke would cost to be welded on.

No other pics because it was brutally hot and humid and my demeanor was not very good... :mad:
 
I did forget to mention that when I had the driveshaft out there was an "AAM 26" cast on the inside of the front yoke on the shaft. I'm guessing that's why the Spicer joint didn't appear to fit.
 
See why I said get a new shaft the first time?
I don't think that a serious driveshaft shop even tries to weld and balance your rusty pipe.
 
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Since it seems the OEM shaft (52853073AC) is NLA, are there any aftermarket vendors I can look at? Or would a local shop be my best bet?

Parts yard or a specialty shop for drivelines. If you live in near an industrial area/4x4 hot spot you may get lucky and find a reputable local shop otherwise I would look online and be willing to wait and have it done by a professional.
 
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