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03 No start?

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2003 Dodge diesel 3500 won't start after lift pump change

Voltage regulator?

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Not Hi jacking the post post My 03 doing exact same thing summer starts fine in winter after sitting more than 4 hours a shot of ether to get her running...... Im going to do a cap off test see if will disclose a bad injector also a flow test..... I have all the fittings needed to do both...... BTW, I already re-torqued the Cross tubes

Your not hijacking at all. I have had little time to mess with my truck lately. I have gone out to try to start and it starts everytime now but has a little longer than normal crank time. I expect to install my fav this weekend as it is going to be warmer than last.

I went searching youtube for cold starts. Mine cranks super fast compared to others that have started in very low temps, so I am ruling out the starter.

I am sure I am headed for injectors but I want to make sure everything else is covered first.

Has re-tq ing the cross over tubes a worthy start? If they were loose I imagine there is a destroyed oring?
 
Just went youtubing again. Are the cross over tubes the feed tubes? I would think if these orings are bad fuel would be leaking out of the head on the side of the engine and into the crankcase?
 
You need to be more selective in your web browsing Habits , NO bad cross tube O-ring(s) will never leak into Crankcase. the tubes are surround by Fuel form the back leakage circuit of the Injectors, the injectors have Top and mid O-rings ,the fuel exist the injector then enter the return Valley (In head) the Banjo on Back of head is the return line back to tank.
 
You need to be more selective in your web browsing Habits , NO bad cross tube O-ring(s) will never leak into Crankcase. the tubes are surround by Fuel form the back leakage circuit of the Injectors, the injectors have Top and mid O-rings ,the fuel exist the injector then enter the return Valley (In head) the Banjo on Back of head is the return line back to tank.


Not bad info out there, just my ignorance showing through. It looked to me from video it would leak back into case. Thanks for the explanation.

So re torqueing the feed tubes allows less fuel to leak by the tip where it seats into the injector. Little clearer now.

So................... Is it worth re-torqueing the tubes? If so what are the tq numbers I am looking for? Seems like it is a easy job. Even doing injectors seems easy compared to the stroke I had.
 
Over TQ will cause them to warp/deform .. 45FT Lbs is max. Its not bad R/R 5.9 6.7 Injectors the 1st time takes about 6hrs.... tubes once seated correctly rarely will fail or become loose. its generally after install 1 to 2 weeks and problems develop needing the RE-TQ. factory is 37FT Lbs.
 
Grrrrrrrr.. Tried to replace the FAV valve. Two bolts came out, one stuck until I have a chance to get everything out of the way.........
 
If it strips the head just break it clean off, You only need 2 bolts to hold the FCA, I only have 2 bolts on all My FCAs, the 1 nearest the body of the pump is the PITA bolt. that's the one I leave out or just finger tight.
 
Save yourself a lot of headaches and replace the injectors. I listened to people that knew like Todd at TC Diesel and replaced injectors and relief valve truck starts and runs great I have a 2003 5.9 with 50,000 less miles then yours so you got pretty good mileage out of those injectors
 
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