'05 Budget Engine Rebuild

[Dysfunctional Vet]

I pulled the engine out (at this point its easier than pulling the transmission.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

Removed the bolts. Then put the engine back in. It's not fully in, just have the mounts cradled up, bell housing is still unbolted.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

 

[Ozymandias]

Well done, and fast too. Happy wrenching.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

Just before I called it a night I saw that number 5 exhaust pushrod was not in its proper place. Hope the chain didn't knock something out of place during reinstall.
I'll have to check k it out this weekend when I get time.
If you ever think you screwed up you can always come back to this thread a read how I screwed up worse. It'll be like therapy.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

Well done, and fast too. Happy wrenching.

Thanks Oz, still a long way to go, but I'm trying to maintain some type of progress as time and money allow. And maybe somebody can learn from my mistakes.
Also, thanks for the heads up on the bolts. If it wasn't for you I'd still be scratching my head or worse yet, i would have left the wrong bolts in and it would have been a bigger mess.

 

[jghflys]

Once I get this train wreck back on the tracks does anybody have good advice on type of break-in oil?

Use your favorite multigrade oil and add ZDDP zinc additive. Engines without roller cams need extra protection for the cams and lifters during startup and break-in. I have a prelube tank and use it to put the last gallon of oil in the crankcase for the first start. be careful not to empty the tank and blow air into the system or you will have to drain some oil and re do the priming. Prelube is not mandatory, just make sure you get oil pressure in the first few seconds.

Here's what my engine rebuilder said:
"Breakin Period
Check all normal vitals on startup, good oil pressure, no unusual sounds, no leaks, etc. Using a manual oil pressure gauge is highly recommended during first startup. You should see oil pressure almost instantly once engine is running. Bring engine up to 1800-2200 rpms immediately once you have oil pressure. Run for 1-2 minutes. Then shut off. Do not let idle for more than a few minutes before applying load to the engine, either by dyno, driving in hills, or towing a trailer. The more miles you can put on with a load, then better for the first 1000 miles.
Use a good quality oil such as Rotella, Delo, Valvline Premium Blue, Etc as well as a good breakin oil additive with ZDDP for the first and second oil changes. We use the Lucas brand. It can be purchased at most common parts stores. First oil change should be done at 500 miles. Then go to normal schedule. We recommend not exceeding 5000 miles per service.
DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC OIL UNTIL AFTER SECOND OIL CHANGE!

DO NOT USE FRAM OIL FILTERS!

DO NOT LET ENGINE IDLE FOR MORE THAN 5 MINUTES DURING THE FIRST 1000 MILES!"

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

Use your favorite multigrade oil and add ZDDP zinc additive. Engines without roller cams need extra protection for the cams and lifters during startup and break-in. I have a prelube tank and use it to put the last gallon of oil in the crankcase for the first start. be careful not to empty the tank and blow air into the system or you will have to drain some oil and re do the priming. Prelube is not mandatory, just make sure you get oil pressure in the first few seconds.

Here's what my engine rebuilder said:
"Breakin Period
Check all normal vitals on startup, good oil pressure, no unusual sounds, no leaks, etc. Using a manual oil pressure gauge is highly recommended during first startup. You should see oil pressure almost instantly once engine is running. Bring engine up to 1800-2200 rpms immediately once you have oil pressure. Run for 1-2 minutes. Then shut off. Do not let idle for more than a few minutes before applying load to the engine, either by dyno, driving in hills, or towing a trailer. The more miles you can put on with a load, then better for the first 1000 miles.
Use a good quality oil such as Rotella, Delo, Valvline Premium Blue, Etc as well as a good breakin oil additive with ZDDP for the first and second oil changes. We use the Lucas brand. It can be purchased at most common parts stores. First oil change should be done at 500 miles. Then go to normal schedule. We recommend not exceeding 5000 miles per service.
DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC OIL UNTIL AFTER SECOND OIL CHANGE!

DO NOT USE FRAM OIL FILTERS!

DO NOT LET ENGINE IDLE FOR MORE THAN 5 MINUTES DURING THE FIRST 1000 MILES!"

O.K., so a petroleum based oil with the ZDDP additive for fire up, then change oil after first 500 miles, no Fram (which I never use anyways), and no 5+ minute idling. I'll try and find some Rotella at the local store. Thank you!

 

[AH64ID]

Did you change the cam?

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

Did you change the cam?

Did not change the cam. Wish I did now.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

So Mr. Murphy showed up today.
When I pulled the engine last year I noticed a small crack in the rubber for the passenger side engine mount.
So I ordered one.
From Amazon (yah, I know).
Fast forward to today. Engine's back in the frame rails, bell housing bolted up, but wait, why is there such a gap between the passenger engine mount and the frame? Because Murphy ensured that I got an inferior mount and that it's at least half an inch thinner than it needs to be (I'll take a picture later so y'all can see what I'm trying to describe). I'm positive I ordered the right mount, it bolted up correctly to the engine brackets. Just manufactured horribly. I should've never ordered from Amazon.
What was I thinking?!?!?

 

[AH64ID]

Did not change the cam. Wish I did now.

The will make the startup easier, but I'd still fire it up and rev it up to 1800-2000 for a few minutes. Much easier than the 20 minutes needed for a new cam break-in.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

Guess it doesn't present well in the picture. I'll try to take a picture ture of a micrometer when I pull the bad one out. Either way it's gotta go

 

[Ozymandias]

Get OEM, I once got an aftermarket transmission mount from Amazon.
Steel was half the thickness as factory, sent it back and ordered the OEM which was also available from Amazon.

 

[Ozymandias]

With the right mounts you should be able to put your fingers between the chassis cross member and the oil pan.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

With the right mounts you should be able to put your fingers between the chassis cross member and the oil pan.

Funny you should say that. I was chasing the oil on my 2007. I'm under the truck and I see the p/s of the oil pan touching the cross member.

 

[Ozymandias]

Wow that's bad. Needs replacement asap too. Bot sides please.

 

[Ozymandias]

Problem is that your engine can move around in the engine bay way more then it's designed for.
Ripping on the wiring, the hoses, the exhaust and so on.
Every time the load changes from positive to negative it moves in it's mounts.