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G56 leaks

4X4 transfer case selector switch

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i just bought an 05 with 71K cc 2wd 1 ton dually with the G56. I use this truck to run my hot shot business. i was curious on what the opinions are of the fellow TDR members. what to look out for, pros and cons. i already did a muffler delete and about to gut the kitty. i have 2 smarty s-03's and plannin on doing the s-06 to the new truck. s-06 or jr???? which is better? i'm looking for power and mpg. shoot aint we all. i just bought a dodge factory warranty that covers the truck for 3yrs/unlimited mileage. i heard that the 05's were the last of the good 5. 9's but i was angry to see a kitty under it. #@$%! i tow around 26k(gross) on a daily basis. (CAT scale certified) some more some less.

thanks in advance!
 
All the 600 series trucks have a CAT, only way to get them 50 state certified. You can gut it but the CAT on these trucks is more of a soot trap than anything and doesn't really impeded the exhaust flow. The only time they can be an issue is when you over fuel and melt the catalyst but thats rare. You MIGHT see 100 degree drop in max EGT's but not much more. If its possible you would EVER have to deal with emissions I would just leave it and see what happens. There are better ways to drop EGT's like the muffler which is a much larger restriction.



Check your build date. The early 05's, before Jan 05 had CAC's with plastic end tanks that liked to leak and blow out.



You now have a truck with 3 injection events and the late one fires generally at 60% load or better and 2500 rpms and higher. One sure way to get better mileage is tune and drive to stay out of the zone as much as possible. Unfortunately, with the stock tune its leaves you wanting to get loads rolling and accelerating. A quick fix is a Smarty and reduce the the TQ management to fuel harder in the lower rpm's. Add some timing and it helps the low end plus a little better throttle reaction. Add a boost fooler and let the turbo spool up farther and you have better air plus lower EGT's across the board.



If your going to use this truck hard and want the optimum of mileage\power seriously consider a cam change to get rid od the OE emissions built into the stock profile, then, add a set of 40-60 HP tips to the injectors. Coupled with the Smarty tuning this is probably one of the best combos for power and mileage available.



The 2 piece drive shaft can be problematic. Some have good luck others toss them for the updated 1 piece and so much happier.



For the $$ and the capability, an SO-6 is well worth it. Couple that with a Quad boost fooler and you have a potent tunable power band.
 
I would leave it stock. 325/610 should be plenty. I have a gutted kitty. When you see what comes out of it (The Kitty)youll be amazed the dam thing can run with it. It will make a HUGE difference it throttle response, and coolant temps.



There are those who will differ:eek:.



If you do a search youll see that injectors argue at elevated rail pressures. Fueling the motor over stock might throw that warr you just purchased in the round file.



Mac:cool:
 
Save your money for a South Bend Clutch replacement solid flywheel and conventional clutch assembly. You'll need it soon to replace the weak dual mass flywheel and clutch assembly used with G-56 transmissions.
 
You would probably like a Smarty Jr. Set it on SW1 for that weight and it will work quite well. SW1 is timing only and puts about 80 ft/lbs of tq extra to the ground from 1600-2400, where you need it without using any more fuel.



Save your money for a South Bend Clutch replacement solid flywheel and conventional clutch assembly. You'll need it soon to replace the weak dual mass flywheel and clutch assembly used with G-56 transmissions.



Yeah the clutch is the weak point.



Can you use a 1-piece drive shaft on a truck that long, c/c, long bed, 2wd?



Nick



Yes you can.
 
You would probably like a Smarty Jr. Set it on SW1 for that weight and it will work quite well. SW1 is timing only and puts about 80 ft/lbs of tq extra to the ground from 1600-2400, where you need it without using any more fuel.



Yeah the clutch is the weak point.



Yes you can.

What's the advantage of the long single driveshaft? Elimination of the carrier bearing and center u joint?
 
What's the advantage of the long single driveshaft? Elimination of the carrier bearing and center u joint?



Yep. Some folks get bad vibrations and shutter's with the stock setup, even with stock suspension and power. Others (like myself) have never had an issue.
 
Taking the cat off is a waste unless you are way above factory output.

I second the smjr for use it and forget improved driveability and cooler EGT.



I put a one piece shaft on one of my sons service trucks. He has 3,. an 04. 5,05,97. NO MORE hanger bearing issues. The 05 will be getting one as soon as this one needs replacement. (04. 5 and 05 are drw,QC,4x4,LB,auto)



Side note: the old 97, first in business has near 500k miles and has been more trouble free by a long shot than either of the newer trucks. It sadly is almost rusted away .
 
Generally a good truck, I think.
Keep an eye out for the air box (heater / AC) door issues, many other threads on that. Also if your batteries start coming up dead after the truck sits for short periods, search for "parasitic draw" and / or my previous posts.
Enjoy your truck!
 
When you go to buy a one-piece shaft from Dodge, they have a note in their system that says a 1 piece should not be used on a 2wd. Apparently there has been an interference issue with some trucks. Too bad, it's the best mod I've made to my truck.
 
When you go to buy a one-piece shaft from Dodge, they have a note in their system that says a 1 piece should not be used on a 2wd. Apparently there has been an interference issue with some trucks. Too bad, it's the best mod I've made to my truck.



I had to go look at the listings, you are correct. 1 piece shafts are only listed for QC SWB and REG CAB trucks. The QC LWB and MC SWB 2x4 do not have an available 1 piece shaft.
 
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