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07 5.9 3500 no ac warm air

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dually4118

I have a 5.9 3500 light on dash is on for ac,but warm air.So i figured needs a recharge ,so purchased charge kit with gauges .Connect line and gauges goes to 80 psi.Noticed the compressor wasnt cycling.Got under truck sure enough was not working.Looked for a relay and only found 10amp fuse in a so called looking fuse box and it was fine.Any and all help would be appreciated.Aloha from Hawaii
 
The tipm supplies the b+ that powers up the clutch.You will probably find the cluch has failed so the tipm stops supplying voltage to it
 
If it has lost enough juice, the system needs to be purged/ subjected to a vacuum before refilling. At that point it's no longer a DIY project - time for a professional shop.
 
Prairie Dog said:
If it has lost enough juice, the system needs to be purged/ subjected to a vacuum before refilling. At that point it's no longer a DIY project - time for a professional shop.
Click to expand...
If the system is at 80psi static pressure, it should engage the clutch. You DON'T need to evacuate the system. That is only needed when the system has been opened up for part replacement. Check the low pressure switch.
 
I have problem, when the humidity is high the AC on pass side decreases. I took to shop had been using for years they take down the dash. He tells some of bend doors are looking bad. They change all the doors and actuators. But the problem is still there. He tells that there is senor that get frosted over. But he not change it, I said why. He thought the doors would fix problem. Now he telling he has to take dash back down! I told him you should have changed when you had it apart! Is there any way of getting it out with taking dash down? This is so stupid, I have not been back there since. Let the truck sit for 10mins and works fine. Anyone have any ideas?
 
I just had a compressor clutch go bad on the 06. It let go all at once (I could smell and see smoke from the clutch) and, as Bob noted above, it won't engage now. Compressor spins freely. FSM gives procedure for replacing clutch only and it is about $150 part. But it looks like it would be an aggravation to do it and requires a special puller. FSM says it can be done on vehicle so no discharge of the system. I didn't feel like messing with it, so I took it to the dealer. They confirmed bad clutch be they said that don't replace clutch but the whole compressor assembly. So with $350 compressor/clutch, discharge and charge, labor, seals, etc., it's a $950 job. So is it common for other dealers to do the whole compressor or are they just using it as a excuses to to more money from me?
 
ACerf said:
I have problem, when the humidity is high the AC on pass side decreases.
Click to expand...

This was a typical symptom of low freon on our truck.
The passenger side vent gets air through the upper half of evaporator.
The driver side vent gets air through the lower half of evaporator.
There was not enough freon in the evaporator (upper half) to remove heat.
Add one can of freon and it would be fine.
 
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Personally I'd replace the entire compressor if its the original unit. You could spend a couple hundred dollars on replacing the clutch only to have the compressor fail a year or two down the road.
There are other options out there though, Ive used this company a few times over the years including my truck which I just had done yesterday.

http://www.discountacparts.com/addt...CeiLT8VmZQkYu6t4NwxkFr4UZt02romFKURoC_iXw_wcB

The kits come with new compressors not reman. All 3 of my vehicles blow ice cold air. Our Mustang which was done 4 or 5 years ago, the wife's TDI 2 summers ago, and my truck which was just done yesterday. I use a local shop that's known for doing good a/c work. I brought them the parts (compressor, drier, seals, and oil) and they charged me $200 to evacuate, R&R, draw vacuum, and charge the system. About $400 all together parts and labor
 
PWong said:
This was a typical symptom of low freon on our truck.
The passenger side vent gets air through the upper half of evaporator.
The driver side vent gets air through the lower half of evaporator.
There was not enough freon in the evaporator (upper half) to remove heat.
Add one can of freon and it would be fine.
Click to expand...
I know what you are tell me. Freon is never low when checked. As I mentioned if truck sits for a few minutes not running. Start it up and all is good again. Believe me, I more experience with this stupid AC then I care to mention. If don't want to take the dash down to change the AC thermocouple.
 
It sounds like you have the evaporator icing up. There was a relocation of the temp sensor in the fins of the evaporator and it has to be removed from the dash to do it. If you described the symptoms to the technician like you did here "gets warm, shut off for ten minutes and back to normal" that should have been the clue to him that it was not a door concern.
 
sag2 said:
It sounds like you have the evaporator icing up. There was a relocation of the temp sensor in the fins of the evaporator and it has to be removed from the dash to do it. If you described the symptoms to the technician like you did here "gets warm, shut off for ten minutes and back to normal" that should have been the clue to him that it was not a door concern.
Click to expand...
Sag2, I did tell them what was happening. But for some reason he thought that all the other stuff he did would fix it. I was totally ****** when it not fix the problem. I was wondering if there was some other way of getting to it without removing the dash.
 
I know what you mean about the dash. I am hoping I never have to go into mine and if I do, I will probably replace all the A/C and heater core in there at one time. One-n-Done just because it is such a hassle and cost so much just to R&R the dash.
 
rashwor said:
I know what you mean about the dash. I am hoping I never have to go into mine and if I do, I will probably replace all the A/C and heater core in there at one time. One-n-Done just because it is such a hassle and cost so much just to R&R the dash.
Click to expand...

I hate to say it but the dash has out 4 times that i can recall. Pretty much always the Blend doors. It seems that by 05' they were improving that problem. I normally don't buy the first year of any new product. Shame on me! But I needed the truck and I was even going buy a Ford, and I wasn't to sure about the Duramax. But none of dealers had much stock, and they were not dealing.
And only have 161k!
 
PWong posted a NICE work around (involving a relay) of the tipm controlling full current to the AC clutch/compressor resulting in only war, air blowing through the vents on another thread on another forum.

I'll try to find it for you guys.
 
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seafish said:
Ooops, not Pwong (though he did post in the thread with helpful info), but Rgsaugerwrote up a comprehensive work around posted here--


http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3...diy-fix-ac-compressor-clutches-going-bad.html

Beware it IS a long thread, but the basic info is in the first post!!!
Click to expand...

Rgsauger's way would work with a Good TIPM, a relay was used to bypass the load side of the clutch relay in TIPM, to prevent overloading of the clutch relay in TIPM. It would work before you have clutch issue.

PWong's way would work with a BAD clutch relay in TIPM, a relay was used to bypass the BAD clutch relay.
The clutch would worked as designed without replacing the TIPM. It would work after you have clutch issue
 
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