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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 1-hour fuel filter change?

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Oil Press. Ques

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Yes, it took me over an hour to get the fuel filter changed on my 2001. I think that I followed the instructions properly.



1. Loosen cover and remove old filter

2. Replace with new FleetGuard fuel filter

3. Bump starter and let lift pump run to purge system (repeat several times)

4. Start truck



Step #4 is where I experienced the problem. When I tried to start the truck it ran for about 10 seconds and quit. (I was worried about this part) So I repeated step #3 and tried to bleed any air from the Schrader valve at the injector pump. No such luck! I could not get anything to come out. I called the Dodge dealer and they told me that I would probably have to crack the fuel lines at the injectors to purge the air. I tried to explain that loosening the lines would not help if I can’t get fuel out of the lift pump! Anyway, I finally removed the filter assembly and filled it with fuel (filtered). Once I let the lift pump cycle a few more times, I was able to get the engine to turn over.



What a mess! I called Dodge back and they said that this is why you should let them change the filter. What a bunch of B. S. You should just be able to drop in the filter and go! Anyway, they want me to bring in the truck to check the fuel pressure next week.



Should I push them to change the lift pump?

Did I do something wrong when changing the filter?

Any suggestions?
 
Nope,



I "STRONGLY" feel the LP is in the wrong place.



On my 2002 I follow the exact same steps you did except I wipe it out with a lint free rag totally dry.



Put the filter in, tighten it up, bump twice, start.



BUT, BUT, BUT, ... ... ... you get the idea



My LP is sitting down on the frame where it generally has siphon pressure to feed as it is lower than all but the last 1/4 of the 35 gallons and the low fuel light comes on then anyway.



It has positive fuel to it and mearly pushes it up to the filter and off she goes.



I have read some open the fuel drain and bump the starter to get air out.



I also put in a fuel lubricant in EVERY tank!



I have gauges pre and post filter and get pressure right away in pre and takes about 2 bumps to get post pressure. That way I know the VP is getting a positive fuel charge. I am also going to run my fuel filter until I see a 2 psi drop across the filter. So far 15k and only a 1 psi drop which as far as I can tell is normal.



If I were in your shoes, I would get the FP gauge that attaches to the schrader valve and extend it far enough toward the windshield so I could see the fp the VP is getting. That's the ONLY way you know for CERTAIN.



It's not he last time you will change the fuel filter so get setup to be comfortable with it.



Take it to the ..... er and they will lighten your wallet sufficiently to reinforce the reason you wanted to change it in the first place.



It's your truck, if you want to work on it, then DO IT! and feel comfortable doing it.



Bob Weis
 
You missed step . 5:



. 5 Start the engine and look at your fuel pressure gauge to be sure your lift pump is operating, or hook up a temporary fuel pressure gauge to be sure of proper lift pump operation
 
I agree with Rockcrusher. I do this and I haven't had problems. Of course, my 2000 only has 33k miles on it so I've only replaced the filter twice.
 
Prefill the housing

After reading the problems some guys were having replacing the filter, I was very apprehensive doing mine for the first time. It was a piece of cake. Before installing the new filter, I filled the housing about 2/3 full with filtered fuel. After a single starter "bump", it fired right up and ran as good as it always does. Maybe I just have a good pump, not sure.



Jim
 
I agree with filling the housing. When you remove the old filter and install a new one, you are removing some fuel from the housing (soaked into the old filter) and introducing a new, dry filter. The new filter soaks up more fuel than you might think and creates a larger void in the filter canister. It then takes a decent lift pump to prime the housing, otherwise you get a no start condition. Granted, i have changed the filter several times and not filled the canister and simply bumped the starter three times, but I have a FP gauge that lets me know that the lift pump is operating as it should.

-Jason
 
Ok! Ok! I am going to get busy and find some gauges to install. I started to look a few weeks ago, but I have not been satisfied with my options and my budget is not where it needs to be.



Anyway, I think that it is stupid to have to pre-fill the filter housing when changing the element (except in the case of a screw on filter). The system should prime its self and purge the air, but leave it to some “book smart” automotive engineer to screw it up. I would rather install the filter and prime the system by hand instead of filtering fuel from a jug and then filling the housing. I am sorry; I know that I am probably preaching to the choir. The thing that aggravates me is that I spent 25K on a truck that requires me to perform an incorrect procedure to change the fuel filter. I like performing the preventative maintenance on my truck, but it is costing me more in time than if I hired the job done.



Bob Weis



I agree with your suggestion to fix it if I am going to work on it. My problem right now is time and money. I would like to see where you located the pump. Do you have any photos posted of your relocation?



Thanks,



Brent Landau
 
If funds are a problem, just get an all purpose liquid filled gage and the kind of hose they use to charge air conditioners. Hook it up and observe the pressure. I got the hose free from a tech and I just run it out the hood , behind the door and sit it on the dash. A good pump on a stock truck will cruise at over 10 psi and you will be speeding big time to get it under 8.

This whole affair is less than 50 bucks.

IMHO the '' non serviceable'' front bearings can be the real money pit on these trucks. I found a way to grease them [but more importantly how to remove frozen hubs] and am pleased with the results.

This is not meant to flame you or upset you, but just realize that a complete crate engine placed in another manufacturer's truck may require a few work arounds to do routine maintenance.
 
fuel filter change

OK guys it has been said that there are no stupid questions so here is mine. From where do you get filtered fuel to put into the canister?



The first time I changed my filter I had the same problem as the orginal poster. The second time no problem. But I dod like the idea of adding fuel to the canister. Filtered fuel that is. But I don't know how to get it.
 
Making an easy thing too complicated???? I now have 34000 on my truck. I have personally changed every fuel filter. I have never had any trouble. I take the old filter out, put the new one in, start my truck.



Maybe I've just been lucky. However, I can't help think that by messin' around too much, you can make an easy job harder than it needs to be.
 
Fuel filter changes

I always change my filter with a full tank of fuel. The time I didnt it ruined the lift pump. I ended up putting air to the fuel tank to get it primed then replaced the pump. The lift pump does not like to run dry. I am on my second lift pump in 112K. And yes I do have pressure guage before and after filter. Just my . 02 worth. Scott
 
To everyone who does not like doing the maintenance on their CTD's (particularly in the Denver CO area)





I WILL WORK FOR INJECTORS! :D
 
Brent,

Daveshoe has some good advice on a cheaper gauge setup. I know how frustrating it is when money is tight and you would like to have a preventative maintenance item but it is just tough to justify spending the coin at that time. When I was single, I would have eaten Raman noodles for a year to get something I wanted but now that I'm married, I just can't convince the wife that injectors are worth such a sacrifice:rolleyes: .

-Jason



Sticks, if i hit the lotto, you've got yourself a set of injectors!
 
Originally posted by JStull

Sticks, if i hit the lotto, you've got yourself a set of injectors! [/B]



LMAO



Yeah, I say that to myself every Wednesday and Saturday.



I talk to people all the time about doing their own maint. rather than the stea... dealer. "I don't know how. " or "It's not worth it. " How can a $300 trip to the stea... dealer, and 2 (If you're lucky)hours in their waiting room be more worth it than a $35 job done at home in an hour at the most? If it were'nt for the fact I owe my father in law so much, I would be making a killing off him on his vehicles at half the price. At least that is how I started doing his.
 
From where do you get filtered fuel to put into the canister?



I poured some diesel through a double layer of coffee filters into a clean glass jar and used that to prefill the housing.



Jim
 
Sticks,



My situation is probably different than most. I own a company that integrates industrial robots and performs engineering consulting. Even thought I have been in business for a couple of years, I still perform the majority of the engineering and sales. The difficult part for me is to decide when it is better to perform the maintenance myself or go to a shop. If I am not working for my customers than I am not bringing in any revenue. That is why I was so frustrated when changing the filter. I figured it would not take near as long to get the job done. Oh well. At least I am back to diesel power.



Having said this, my funding for the truck fluctuates based upon how much work I have at the present time. Just recently I had to replace both sets of ball joints. This was very disappointing for a truck that at the time had less than 50K miles. That pretty much took all of the gauge money. My other problem is that I am very particular about the equipment I install on the truck. If I mount the gauges, I want them to look like they were there from the factory. The same goes for the robot cells we build. Looks are as important as function! Unfortunately, this usually costs more but the end result is very satisfying.



Brent
 
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Yes do get a full time gauge . The 99 trucks have a easy to change , fill , add hose ,or hoses ,for gauges . Fine system works fine . I think thats why they changed it several times to a sorry excuse for a new improved part . Some say its easy to change on the newer trucks but Ill stick with the 99 type as long as they make them and have to use a lift pump. 99 can be bled from the top plug . Bump the starter but don't start the truck for three times and then use some go peddle on start attempt hold till motor runs for some time to smooth out ,It will let you know when its OK. LOL Ron Bissett in Metro Louisville KY:-{}
 
filter change

BLandau, had my old truck 4 years, and once ,(the last time), I changed the fuel filter it went "by the book"! every other time I changed it had problem starting, got to where I loosened the lines for the injectors at the head bumped, pumped, primed, cranked, yelled, kicked the tires, until fuel started to leak from where I loosened the lines!

:confused:



I filled the sump with new filter as high as it would go without spilling, connected gauge, bumped ignition and pushed the relief valve. took off gas cap, had full tank of fuel, parked down hill, (changed lift pump once), and still had the problem. No one ever could tell me what was wrong?? good luck, the good news is if you don't completley drain your battery it will eventually start!Oo.



hope I don't have the same problem with the new 03!!!:rolleyes:
 
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