Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) #10 Plate and Clutch

[DPellegrin]

Hey fellas got a question. Josh Peters was kind enough to help me out with sliding my plate forward and advancing the timing. Thanks Josh I really appreciate it. It is so awesome to see some smoke from them stacks. Anyways I found a good deal on a #10 plate and was wondering if I put a 10 plate in and slid it full forward first of all what hp and torque would I be runnin and also how long til I fried that stock clutch I wouldnt be on it all the time just once in a while for fun. Let me know thanks.

 

[Rams-n-Hogs]

It all depends on what kind of shape the clutch is in, how many miles are on it, how much towing, etc. Mine slipped in 4th and 5th as soon as I put a #11 in, so it wouldn't have held the 10 at all. I replaced the clutch before the 10 went in. After that, things were really fun.



Jim

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

In stock position the #10 gave my 97 345 hp, 860 ft lb. It will slip a stock clutch easily. As you move it forward, the egt's will climb into the stratosphere unless you have a bigger turbo and port the head, and maybe a camshaft too. The valve seats and between them, and between seats and injector holes will crack.

 

[ABorchard]

Just trying to figure out why so many people think sliding the plate full forward is such a great idea. The plate was designed along with the governor arm geometry to work best in the middle stock position. Changing the plate is the correct way to increase power otherwise why bother having the selection of aftermarket plates available?

 

[Smokey96]

Joe, did you have any other mods on the truck when you made 345/860? Is the truck an auto or 5 speed? Did you ever dyno it at full forward?



thanks, Matt

 

[DPellegrin]

my clutch has 61000 miles on it this thing says it comes with a set up plate is that so you can find where the stock plate was?

 

[Rams-n-Hogs]

Just trying to figure out why so many people think sliding the plate full forward is such a great idea. The plate was designed along with the governor arm geometry to work best in the middle stock position. Changing the plate is the correct way to increase power otherwise why bother having the selection of aftermarket plates available?

I originally had my plate full forward when I dynoed it, (see sig). Haven't dynoed it again since I put the plate back to the stock position, but I think the truck actually runs better, there. Maybe not as much power, or roughly the same, (don't know), but definitely lower EGT's. One day I'll dyno it again, as it sits.



Jim

 

[Got Smoke?]

Just trying to figure out why so many people think sliding the plate full forward is such a great idea. The plate was designed along with the governor arm geometry to work best in the middle stock position. Changing the plate is the correct way to increase power otherwise why bother having the selection of aftermarket plates available?

Funny you should say that. Yes the plates are designed to work in the centered position, but you do get more power from sliding them forward.



Example, my previous 97 2500 5spd 215HP pump with a #10 centered and Bosch 300 Marine injectors dynoed 358RWHP. After that run without taking the truck off the dyno we pulled the AFC housing and slide the plate full forward and then ran it again... ... 404RWHP! That's darn new a 50RWHP gain for FREE I'll take any day! Oo. :-laf