Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 10 Plate and towing

[RWorth]

Who has a #10 plate a set of higher horse power injectors and towing a travel trailer or 5th Wheel and other loads? Where do you have the fuel plate set? Do you have the AFC set full forward and no spring tension or do you have some smoke control? I have the #10 plate set forward of center a set of DDP stage 2 inj. and the AFC back alittle from full forward and the 215hp spring adjusted a from full loose for smoke control. I just got back from towing the our 5ht wheel to see what the egt's would be. Trying to get up to the speed limit of 70mph the egt's would climb to 1200 degrees pretty easy, once the speed was reached towing temps was 1000 drop to 65mph temps would drop to 850. Does this seem normal. Should I set the #10 plate in the center, try to find a #11 plate or put the stock plate in and set it forward? I know I am in need of a better breathing turbo to help keep the egt's down. Do I need to back the plate some? Would like to here what you have done.

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[bmoeller]

If the thermocouple is in the manifold, I probably wouldn't change a thing, if that is as high as the temps go. 1200 pre-turbo is safe.

If post turbo, you need more air. Probably slide the AFC housing and maybe the plate, back to stock position til you get more turbo.

If the AFC spring is loosened all the way up, tightening it up some should help the EGTs a little off the bottom.

Rarely tow with the Ram. To busy in the KW. Haven't towed with the new turbo at highway speeds yet, but the PDR HX40 couldn't keep me cool.

If the temps a pre-turbo, A hybrid turbo might be enough. A 40 compressor wheel and a 14 turbine housing.

 

[ndurbin]

For a stock charger that sounds about normal.

 

[Rams-n-Hogs]

I have a hybrid turbo, and it works well. I also use a valet switch when towing, (most of the time), which really works well. My temps usually don't go over 1000-1100 when towing, and cruising between 700-800.

 

[RWorth]

I have a hybrid turbo, and it works well. I also use a valet switch when towing, (most of the time), which really works well. My temps usually don't go over 1000-1100 when towing, and cruising between 700-800.

How do you have the plate installed, forward of stock, stock? I repostioned the plate this morning. I use metric allen wrenches to set the plate postion and so the plate will be as straight as possible in the housing. I did have the plate set using the width of a 9mm allen this is about . 350" from the front of the plate to the inside wall of the housing now I have the plate set back 1mm which I used a 10mm allen this is about . 390". Went for a drive and the truck feels good l will hook up the 5th wheel and see what happens.
TIA

 

[Rams-n-Hogs]

I usually leave the plate around the stock position.

 

[RWorth]

I usually leave the plate around the stock position.

Well to be honest I didn't do a very good job of marking the stock location of the fuel plate in my truck. Like I mentioned earlier I used metric allen wrenches to set the distance from the front of the plate to the inside wall of the opening where the plate goes. To some folks this might be very crude in adjusting the plate but it works it also helps to keep the plate squared while tightening the screws.

Well we just got back from a trip to Branson Mo. pulling the Excel 28ft RT 5th wheel. I was looking forward to this to see how the #10 plate and DDP stage 2 injectors with a stock turbo would work together. I was amazed to see how many people put on the brakes while going down the steep hills that are north of Branson. There were times I would have to slow down to about 50mph because of the traffic in front of me would slow down. I would go to 4th gear to start trying to pick up speed and would gain in mph but would have to back out because of the egt's. The egt's would climb but the increase in temp would be steady and not just an all of sudden 1300 degrees. I do know now that I need to install a set 3k gsk springs because of the decrease in fueling around 2300 to 2400 rpm. Since we are trying to sell the 2005 Dodge I have permission from the wife to upgrade the turbo which would allow me to adjust the fuel plate alittle more forward but as for now I am probably going to adjust the plate back another . 5 to 1 mm to help with the heat. I am looking at the 62/12 or possibly the HTT 57. I am not sure of which way to go. I am also thinking about a cam upgrade and having the head o-ringed.

Any comments would be great.

Well all in all the Mighty Cummins performed great avaraged 11. 4 mpg which is good.

 

[RWorth]

Surely someone has thoughts on what size of turbo that would be most effeceint for towing.

 

[MUDDY]

well,,,,,,,,,,,my 97 3500 215 pump has a #10, moved ahead a bit. 363 rwhp/ 810 rwtq. does great towing w/ the hybrid II 35/40 60/14 turbo. however, a god load uphill ya gotta pay attn to the pyro. is controlable but ya gotta watch. i wanted a way to easily turn down the power. stock 215 injectors btw. i purchased a valet switch. no good for towin at 73rwhp/208rwtq. i bypassed and added an adjustable regulator. sure helped as i dynoed 151/416. now 416 rwtq is ok to tow with and cool egt too. but i wanted more. of course bigger inj wldve got me more in mod-o-fied valet mode and more than i needed in full power mode. however i had thought of grinding afc foot as was sugested to me for more in valet mode.



i did a boost leak check by putting 20 psi air pressre into the system and discovered that while in my mod-o-fied valet bypass mode i had a leak coming out the bottom of valet valve. no leak w/ valet in full valet mode and no leak in full power mode. the air coming around from the back side was opening valve and letting air bleed out the hole. a threaded hole so i installed a 5/16 bolt with teflon paste to block it. works even bttr. sop tells me a good increase. i will dyno it shortly at the idaho dyno days in meridian. 20-25 boost and 1100 on the pyro wot.



just a thought for those wanting full power to have fun and be able to turn it down a bit for cool temps towing.



here is a thread at the idaho tdr chapter website with my comments on this mod-o-fied bypass valet/power overide switch.



VALET SWITCH. i love it when a plan comes together - Idaho Bombers Forum

 

[Forrest]

Surely someone has thoughts on what size of turbo that would be most effeceint for towing.

Some where back in time I compared the HX55 hybrid to a PDR40. The test was run @ a steady 30psi up a long grade. I can't find the post, but found the PDR40 would go up to around 1050 degrees and stay there. You'd give it more throttle, it'd stay right there, until you really mashed it.



That was with a zero plate forward and Don's Mach 3+'s. The Mach 3+'s were cut to be over 370's. Since then I've put in bigger injectors. I've still got the PDR40 on and I tow a 27' 5th wheel. All my towing is @ 5000' and more.



I'm happy with the PDR40 for towing. If I was looking today, I'd shoot for the HTT or II hybrids. I'd call both

 

[SSage]

I have the HT 62/14 in mine, its a bit laggy around town and the unloaded EGT's will climb fast till it spools up. I had to slide my #6 plate back to get things under control, with the DV's and 370's my boost needle was faster than the tach.



I bet the 62/12 would be the better way to go for an all around turbo with injectors. Unloaded my set up pulls a steady 30 psi / 1100 degrees at 2700 rpm with the pedal almost to the floor with the plate slid way back. I'm still playing with the plate.

 

[bmoeller]

but it works it also helps to keep the plate squared while tightening the screws.

So does pushing the plate full forward like mine. :-laf