Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) #10 plate setup

[mkhenry]

Great website with a whole bunch of information and gurus that are willing to help the less informed like myself. we installed a #12 plate and AFC spring kit a couple of years ago when my son owned the truck.

Recently I upgraded to a #10 plate and 3KGSK.

The plate is slid 1/8" forward from stock, AFC housing all the way forward, and star wheel is about 2 turns from full forward.

After installing the 3KGSK, the initial test drive was a little disappointing. It made good power above 1700rpm but was dead below that and the idle speed did not change. I talked to Mark at Piers and he said to go another click tighter on the governor spring nuts. This raised the idle speed enough that I had to readjust it down to 750rpm and the truck ran much better. EGTs are good and boost went from 26 to 32. The truck pulls very strong above 1700 rpms but is still a little weak below that. If you happen to shift a little early and end up below 1700 rpms, punching the gas results in a very, very slow increase in rpms until you get above 1700 and then it comes on strong. Also, I used to use 1st gear when pulling my boat (6000#) out of the water and up the ramp. Now, if I am not careful, I will stall the motor in 1st. I use Low (granny) gear now and usually have to shift halfway up the ramp.



In your opinion and (to save me some wasted under hood time in this hot and humid Alabama weather) should I adjust the governor springs a click tighter or adjust the governor lever to get fuel at a lower rpm, or something else. Right now the governor lever has never been touched and is in the stock position.

On the #10 plate, should the governor lever contact the plate at the bottom of the plate or at the bottom of the fuel curve cutout?

 

[nfox]

Gov Lever #10

I have mine set just a little above the bottom tip on the camplate with the fuel shut off solenoid in the pulled up or run position and my power comes on about 1400rpm and then the turbo starts to lite up. Oo.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Time for a Gov arm adjustment..... you now have the perfect plate for it. The #10 is a great plate to tell the pump what to do... ..... put it just a little over the nose with the fuel shut off in the run position.



Jim

 

[Howard Durand]

mkhenry,

Your story is almost identical to mine except I have an auto transmission and the #5 plate.



I am beginning to wonder if a #10 wouldn't be better than the #5 for me.



First I'll tighten the springs and adjust the arm and see how that works out.

 

[Howard Durand]

I adjusted the governor lever to just above the nose on the #5 plate (it was hitting almost directly on the tip before) and tightened up the GSK springs a couple of clicks. Response seems to be much better. Leaves considerable smoke on takeoff with a heavy foot.

The AFC housing is full forward. Is that good or bad?



Will know more this weekend after pulling the trailer a couple hundred miles.

 

[mkhenry]

Plate adjust

I haven't had time to check anything on this problem yet. Last weekend was pretty busy and the truck runs pretty good as is. I now have a more pressing problem that I have to fix. Monday while returning from a retirement party, loaded down with empty beer coolers, the throttle rod broke. As a tribute to the power of the CTD, I was able to idle the last five miles home with the flashers on. I could actually get up to a little over 25mph on level ground. There was one 500 yard stretch where I had to get on a four lane highgway and climb a hill. Slow go. But by then my son was behind me in his 1998 2500 4X4 CTD with his flashers on, JIC. Anyway, the rod that my dealer showed as the only replacement for my truck is too long. The curved tubular section is 1 3/4 inches longer than my stock rod and will not fit. I called another dealer and he showed the same part number for my truck but did not have one in stock. I am going to check if my truck missed a recall and talk to a couple of service departments to see if anyone knows what is going on. I posted this in the 911 forum and one suggestion was that the wrong part was packaged in the bag. Got to check on all of this. Maybe one of these days, I will get back to the low rpm power thing. I'm thinking lever adjust, or AFC plunger rubbing on the plate and hanging up. I will post what I find... if I get this throttle rod thing figured out. Why do I have such wierd problems. Might be self induced.

 

[mkhenry]

plate setup

I think I have everything now as good as it is going to get. I am probably just expecting too much out of the few bombing mods that I have done. I was wanting it to pull like a big block gas motor at low rpm. Anyway, the truck now will pull below 1500 and blow a ton of smoke. The problem was the AFC adjustments. I had just about figured this out from all of the posts that I read and from the advice I received. I pushed the #10 plate full forward, starwheel full forward, 1 1/2 turns in on the AFC preload adjustment. The governor lever did not need adjusting as it was already adjusted to touch about 1/8" above where the fuel curve starts.

Thanks to all that replied to help with this problem.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Some time try one thing though, try sliding the plate back to about 3/4 position and see what happens, I'll be your power will stay the same and the topend EGT's will drop some. Most of the time the plate full forward doesn't gain you anything cause the arm is buried against the plate or the arm can't go any father so it just goes to a curtain point and stops.



Jim

 

[mkhenry]

Will do. I slid it forward because this was one of the things that Harry Piers recommended.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Friendly correction... ... Piers Harry



About . 060 forward of stock is about it until you do the tricks..... nope, trade secrets... . sorry!



Jim

 

[nfox]

#10 PLATE

I would like to here some trade secrets. Please!!