Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) # 10 PLate VS#6 plate

[DSutton]

Since the 3k gsk install I have noticed a lot of you recomend the # 10 plate over the #6 plate for an auto. When I installed the 3k GSK I did lose a significant amount of power. Some of the power was recovered by sliding the plate and running the star wheel forward. But am I better off just going to the # 10 and starting the plate and wheel adjustments over?



Just guessing, if all the predictions were accurate, I should have been @ 230/605 with the #6 plate before the GSK. Immediately after the install, it felt like it was back down to the 195/450 mark. And now it feels like it is back up to about 205/500 mark. I don't want to get too crazy, but I would like to get back to the 230/605 area without removing the GSK.



Pulling loads was easier before the GSK, although the RPM range is very nice.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

If you installed the Gov Springs and the power went down then something is not right, like the Gov arm needs to be adjusted which is normally noticed by a sudden surge of power when the Gov arm jumps back up on the plate, now for the #10, some folks argue that you should not use the #10 with an auto so I have to ask what does the 10's fuel curve look like... ... . they don't know as there only going by some chart..... nothing against TST. I like the 10's fuel curve and would pick it over any other plate as I know how to make it work mildly or in higher power settings... . just depends on how you set it up. I like the #10 with the stock auto's also cause the power comes in later when the transmission pump speed is up helping to save the trans. I have done 2 trucks like this now(auto's) and it is the best setup, the first one(not maxed out) was at 275/697 with only timing, plate and 3K's, yesterday's truck that I did was setup a little tamer but will still made 27 psi and 1300 temps at the top of O/D... ... how much power is that! Now call PDR (Piers Diesel) and ask what they recommend, that's were I got the idea from!



Hope this helps you, Jim

 

[mullady76]

DSutton, I had the same problem with the #6 plate and GSK. I lost some low end torque. I heard the #6 and GSK just don't work well together. Mark @ TST recommended the #10 plate or the #4. The #10 being the milder of the two.



Sean

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Mark @ TST recommended the #10 plate or the #4. The #10 being the milder of the two.



a #4 is fine if you have the transmission done, if you ever get the chance to look at both plates side by side you'll understand, the #4 comes in real hard and real fast then pulls back a tad on the top for EGT control, The #10 is more smooth and linear. I ran a #4 for a long time back when I had a stock pump.



Jim

 

[scramblin]

I lost a lot of power when I did the Gsk with a no 6 plate. I was very disappointed until I adjusted the governor lever. After that my power was back. Now I have a no 4, I am much happier with that set up. However my truck must be weird, I don't have egt problems.

 

[SmokinU]

I went through the same problem you did. Low power after 3000K GSK install. As stated above, my governor lever was off. I had a local pump shop fix it, and now the truck runs great.



Brandon

 

[1dslram]

If you check the forum, you will find out the #6 w/3,000 or 4,000 rpm springs is not a viable combo. The #4 smokes more at the low end than the #10 both are about the same at the top end with a slight edge to the #4. My favorites are either the #4 or #10 with the 4,000 rpm kit, AFC, and Injectors with an upgraded turbo.

Bruce

 

[DSutton]

Sounds like I should just get the 10, install it, and then do the lever adjustment. Sounds like I may be asking for trouble with the #4 and the auto.



Thanks for the input



How does the plate swap work with piers? DO I have to send the plate to them first, along with the $50, and wait, or will they send it for $50 and let me send the 6 back after? This would save going into the pump twice.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Call Piers's shop and ask Harry, Bob or Mark on swapping the plates, if you install the #10 you won't need to do the Gov arm adjustment unless you want to change the RPM's it comes in strong.



Jim

 

[Dave Remillard]

My experience has been that you can send the return plate back after recieving the new one and installing it. They will want a credit card number on file just in case. I tried the #4 and liked it OK, but now have the #10 and like it much more. Just a personal preference.

 

[Joe G.]

The various plates are rated differently depending on which pump they are installed in. So comparing the results of a particular plate in a '97 with the plate in a '95 doesn't really work. I use a #5 in my '95 which I am happy with. Putting the same plate in a '97 is not recommended.

 

[DSutton]

I talked to Harry @pdr and ordered the #10 plate. The deal for exchange is they will charge me 185 and then refund 135 when they recieve my plate.



I hope the 10 solves the problem

 

[Jim Fulmer]

You will like the 10.



Jim

 

[tschwab]

I went with the #10 also, when I had the 3K GSK installed. PDR said this was the best combo and the results I received are outstanding!



Let us know how it turns out for you.

 

[Cooker]

Jim,

I am curious why you switched from the 4 to the 10? How does your new pump affect your plate selection?



I am running a 4, but all this talk of the 10 has me wondering.



Thanks,

Ryan

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Ryan, I don't run either in my Race Pump, it's totally different, a #4 in my pump would be like running a 0 plate, it's so agressive on the bottom it almost blows the fire out.



Your transmission is done so the #4 should be fine but you know how aggressive it is on the bottom, the #10 is more linear and smooth that's why it works so well with stock transmission's plus the power band is higher when the transmission pump speed is up so it won't slip the clutches, if you get a chance to look at both plates side by side you will understand how it all works.



Jim

 

[Hummin Cummins]

Dont wanna steal the post, but

I have a related question. Currently I'm running the stock plate slid full forward. MHAF, and straight exhaust. I have no egt troubles even when towing my TT. I am going to get the "correct" plate this winter.



I have read where the 10 or 11 is good for towing. I have NO intentions of adding a GSK as my truck rarely sees over 2000 rpm. I just refuse to run it that hard. (old trucker coming out in me). I want a plate thats gonna really work in the 1600 to 2000 range, with enough power to get the job done without having to rev much over that.



I'm gonna make some calls to Piers and such before I buy. Maybe a numbered plate isnt what I need, but maybe a custom ground plate?



Chris

 

[Joe G.]

Chris



You have the 160 pump in your '95. So the plates recommended for other pumps do not necessarily work the way you expect. Take a look at the chart near the middle of this page: http://www.tstproducts.com/power_kits_trial.htm



Note for example that the 230/605 rateing is obtained with different plates depending on which pump you have. This is not a one size fits all situation.

 

[Hummin Cummins]

Joe, you have the same pump I assume. How is the #5?

I understand the HP ratings for the plates, but I guess the rpm curve is what I need to look at on the charts. Are they all made to come in at the same rpm like the graph shows? Or is each plate ground to come in at a different curve?

 

[Joe G.]

I don't know the technical details about the plates. I like the power mine produces. The 370 injectors are kind of smoky but it really goes with them and the #5. You have to adjust the plate lever in the pump so that it contacts the tip of the curve. There is a picture on Pier's site that shows that.