Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) #10 v/s #100 v/s no plate. Anyone have any dyno #'s?

[Blacksdieselhp]

I have a #10 plate now and was thinking of cutting a #100 plate. I've tried no plate but never have dynoed to see the difference. Does anyone have any dyno runs with any of these setups? Also, the 10 or 100 shouldn't require gov arm adjustment, right?

 

[BTighe]

i dynoed 372 with my custom plate and a gsk. another guy i talked to pulled the plate out of a 97 like mine and did 372 also. i think my plate was grinded and pushed forward too much.

 

[CWinslow]

i have no dyno # but in mine when i put the #100 in it chokes it up and i can feel a huge difference. where i live custom ground plates are the rage, but I out run most of my buddies that run the plates

 

[Blacksdieselhp]

So I put the #100 in today and i can't tell any difference at all from the #10 plate. Both plates seem a little less power than no plate. I'm a little confused on how the P7100 works anyway. I'm a 24v guy and have only played with the normal 12v upgrades like 370's, plate and afc. I don't understand how putting the plate too far forward would cause a truck to loose power. And I don't understand completely how the plate affects the fueling. I understand the arm hits the plate and slides up the plate, but I don't see why there would be anything other than the #100 since the arm is full forward all the way up the plate. Why would you want a plate the #10 where it slides forward and then backward as it rises? Maybe it doesn't work like i think it does. I hate to sound stupid, but I would like to understand how the P7100 operates. I have a set of 4000 GSK's, 370's and DV's ordered. So I'm anxious to see how the work. I know my truck falls on its face at 2500 rpm, so I can't wait to get the springs in. But thanks in advance for the help.

 

[JGheen]

The fuel plate is basically a WOT stop. The different profiles are basically WOT mechanical fuel maps. On the #10 it has a decent amount of WOT bottom end, really kicks in half way through and then de-fuel as rpms get higher. So, if your not @ WOT, the lever is not hitting the plate hence it is fueling whatever the pump flows until the lever hits the stop and limits the fueling, again, hence the name governor lever.

From all the posts I have read and dyno runs I have seen, a properly tuned, plated pump will always make more power than a non-plated pump. With no plate your just dumping the maximum amount of fuel in and at certain rpms that is bad as your choking it off or in other words, just smothering the fire. If your thinking of running no plate, just try a flat plate first, I think you'll be much happier with that plate as well as your pump will love you too for keeping a stop in it so it doesn't eventually break... .



Joe

 

[CWinslow]

according to the shop that i work with pulling the plate is not going to cause your pump any more damage than it is if you run a flat plate, or a # 100 plate all the plate controls is how far your rack, or govenor lever moves forward. I have been running no plate for 2 years, and have had no problems this shop has been running one of their company trucks for over three years, and they have noticed no unusual wear.

 

[Cooker]

The fuel plate is basically a WOT stop. The different profiles are basically WOT mechanical fuel maps..... So, if your not @ WOT, the lever is not hitting the plate

The plate comes into play at times other than just WOT.

 

[Blacksdieselhp]

Well, I don't run without a plate anymore as I just didn't think it was a good idea. But I have tried it on a few different trucks and it does "feel" like it has a little more go than with a plate. I understand that it may not, as some trucks "feel" stronger than others when actually the weaker feeling one will dyno more. Thats why I'm not big on dyno #'s. I'd rather depend on track times. The dyno is just for bragging right it seems. But it would be interesting to see the differences on a dyno with the different plates and no plate. I still don't completely understand what the plate does. I've got two different reply's on it so far. But I do appreciate it.

 

[Blacksdieselhp]

Also, what would be the point of changing the plug on the front of the pump to let the rack travel farther forward if taking the plate out already chokes it up with too muh fuel?

 

[JGheen]

The plate comes into play at times other than just WOT.

Please explain... ...



Joe

 

[CWinslow]

i understand the plate plays a part during normal op. not just at wot, but if it runs better w/o why get your butt kicked by a powerstroke over something like that i don't put the hammer down balls out just to blow some mean smoke on somebody. that was only fun in highschool. now i'm all about just being able to run away from the fords

 

[JGheen]

Someone please explain to me how the plate plays other roles than it's designed use of a WOT stop... ...



Joe

 

[Bobcat698]

It is my understanding that over time, running no fuel plate will cause damage to the P7100 with a high $$ repair cost.

 

[Forrest]

btw ... there are a very few posts out there about max rack travel. i. e. if you let it travel too far, you're de-fueling.



When I was up @ PDR, the pump stud was tuning & set the 0 plate for 19. 8mm of rack travel, which optomized 448cc's of fuel. I didn't ask, should have, what going with more rack travel did.



I've also heard 18mm was right in there too. No doubt the different pumps have their 'sweet spot'.



When I put in the Joe D first in the world #100 plate, I was careful to mark the position of the 0 plate so as to keep the rack travel @ 19. 8mm.

 

[drawson]

The Rocker is the part in the P7100 that contacts the plate at WOT. It like to rest against the plate as the RPMs go up w/o a plate or with one to far forward the rocker and the rack bouce around. This causes the fuel being supplied to the injectors to vary. It cost horse power and a vibration at higher RPMs can cause pump problems!! :{



I have run a 0 plate with the 215 pump stock & with it maxed out (630cc). I like the fact that I control the fueling not the plate but a 0 isn't for everyone, you've got to pay attention to the EGT gauge.



I hav tuned at least 10 trucks thsat had there plate too far foward. I use prussion blue on the plate & put a cover I built to replace the AFC housing and do a full throttle run to the governer and then check the plate. I do this until there is a smooth slide up the plate & this is where the most HP comes from. One 95 with a home ground plate gained ~20 HP after I backed the plate back 5mm to wear it touched all the way. He sold the truck & two weeks later the new owner dyno'd it again same dyno & had lost 20 HP, he then told me the first thing he did when he got the truck is pull the cover & slide the plate all the way forward.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

according to the shop that i work with pulling the plate is not going to cause your pump any more damage than it is if you run a flat plate



It's because the rack will bottom out in the rack cap before it gets into crazy rack travel... ... ... old news of years ago!



Rack Cap change: Best on a bench but with a good tuner it can be done on the truck... ... it's worth 2mm's of travel.





Someone please explain to me how the plate plays other roles than it's designed use of a WOT stop... ...



It's fuel scheduling, when and how much! BTW my sig is right I run a #6 plate.



Jim

 

[fox]

Someone please explain to me how the plate plays other roles than it's designed use of a WOT stop... ...



Joe

I'm not an expert with these pumps, and I do think that they are masterpieces!!!

If you are running down the road at a given rpm the lever is at a given spot. If the truck starts up a hill/overpass, it needs more fuel. The gov. sees this and pushes the lever forwards which is into the plate, this moves the rack which gives it the fuel needed. All without being at full throttle or max Rpm. The point on the plate that gets the contact should be higher with more RPM.

Is this correct? Or even close!!!!

 

[Jim Fulmer]

I'm not an expert with these pumps, and I do think that they are masterpieces!!!

If you are running down the road at a given rpm the lever is at a given spot. If the truck starts up a hill/overpass, it needs more fuel. The gov. sees this and pushes the lever forwards which is into the plate, this moves the rack which gives it the fuel needed. All without being at full throttle or max Rpm. The point on the plate that gets the contact should be higher with more RPM.

Is this correct? Or even close!!!!

It is and you can add that the rack will move forward or increase till the Gov arm hits the plate and begins scheduling... ... . given point, given RPM! Also if your at say 10psi of boost and your going to 20psi on the pull as an example and you have a tight AFC spring that takes 40 psi to bottom the arm out in the plate..... were is your gov arm at... ... riding on the AFC's arm till boost begins moving the arm forward.



Jim

 

[CWinslow]

I would like to know where everyone gets their # depths for their plates. I am not against running a plate I just know the power w/o in my truck is much better than with. I have tried running it forward, back and mostly everywhere between.

 

[Will24]

I went from a full forward 10 plate to no plate, same day, same dyno, same temp, I gained 3hp and 11 ft lbs... plate is back in!