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11.8 AAM Diff Issue

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Emission Compliant Tune

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As an FYI, the factory fill fluid will be lighter in color than you'd be used to because it contains the tooth marking compound residue from gear setup. Don't be shocked if it appears slightly milky.
 
I wouldn't let factory fluid sit in there for more than 20k miles. Then after everything has had time to break-in change to a full synthetic fluid (brand of your choice) with a viscosity index that best fits your driving style and ambient weather where the truck is driven most.
That said, fluid change intervals are based on average "normal" usage. If the fluid doesnt get over 180* during most driving then the service intervals can be much much longer.
Example, I run a temperature gauge on my differential cover and its rare my fluid ever gets above 180*. Only on the most extreme summer heat while towing a 15k 5th wheel will it reach 200*-210* for short periods of time on long hills. I have around 15k on the current fluid and I dont plan on changing it for a long time, and every time I take a peek at it its still clean and looks like new.
 
Unfortunately I bought my truck used with 15k on it. The honda dealership that had it didn't give me a manual or anything else. I only got one key fob as welll.. long story...
You want to get that “Break In Lube” out between 10-15,000 miles. All that extra metal from the gear set working in and becoming friendly with each other is not good for the long ride. That first time you remove the cover you are going to think someone mixed in some NeverSieze with the lube. I had to use a rag and some Brake cleaner to wipe out the inside of the rear housing. Each lube change after you should see less an less stuff inside the rear. Unless you have something failing. I would bet that bearings in the rear end shown in this thread with 800,000 km on it are toast. No way can you have that much metal in there and not take out the rollers an races. Just like a stern drive or an outboard lower unit. Once you start making that fine metal like that things go south in a bad way fast.
 
You want to get that “Break In Lube” out between 10-15,000 miles. All that extra metal from the gear set working in and becoming friendly with each other is not good for the long ride. That first time you remove the cover you are going to think someone mixed in some NeverSieze with the lube. I had to use a rag and some Brake cleaner to wipe out the inside of the rear housing. Each lube change after you should see less an less stuff inside the rear. Unless you have something failing. I would bet that bearings in the rear end shown in this thread with 800,000 km on it are toast. No way can you have that much metal in there and not take out the rollers an races. Just like a stern drive or an outboard lower unit. Once you start making that fine metal like that things go south in a bad way fast.

When you're right, you're right. It makes me think of when people have "regearing" done on a vehicle. You are mandated to change that break-in oil withing the first 500 miles. how come that isn't stressed with our brand new vehicles as well?

Isn't it bad to use brake parts cleaner to clean out a rear end? Or its fine as long as you don't spray it on the bearings, I forget where I have heard that in the past.
 
Isn't it bad to use brake parts cleaner to clean out a rear end?

I never spray brake cleaner on anything inside the housing because I dont want anything in there thats designed to break down oils. Unless there's water contamination, I'd just let it drip out for a few hours, scoop out whatever is sitting in the bottom, and then you should be fine. But thats just me...
 
Using brake cleaner removes all the oil if you don’t get oil back on the parts rust can start really fast in humid conditions. The nice thing with the Brake cleaner is it evaporates leaving nothing behind.
Dean red truck! How are things up there ? Still happy with water treatment co?
We still have a First’s position open down here at the Cape. We need a Good Engineer.
 
Using brake cleaner removes all the oil if you don’t get oil back on the parts rust can start really fast in humid conditions. The nice thing with the Brake cleaner is it evaporates leaving nothing behind.
Dean red truck! How are things up there ? Still happy with water treatment co?
We still have a First’s position open down here at the Cape. We need a Good Engineer.

Roger that!!

Things are going well! The hours are a little wonky but the overtime is plentiful! I finally got on shift by myself a few weeks ago and so far smooth sailing! Lets just hope it stays that way!!

Ahh such a good offer! I appreciate it 100%!! How is the cape for you?
 
Using brake cleaner removes all the oil if you don’t get oil back on the parts rust can start really fast in humid conditions. The nice thing with the Brake cleaner is it evaporates leaving nothing behind.

From what I've seen, it is pretty much universally accepted that you should never spray any kind of solvent into a differential to clean it. This is why I just squirt light engine oil over everything then just wipe out the bottom of the carrier.
 
Cape is treating me very well. Really good people here. Very happy I jumped ship an came down here when I did.
I do agree that solvents are not the best in gear cases. However using a solvent that will leave nothing behind except for a clean case/ parts can not be a bad thing. Having rebuilt many outdrive and outboard gear cases over the years . And I should add that the loading and stress on those marine units is much more demanding than our truck rear ends will ever see. Having clean parts is a must for long happy service life. That said make sure all the solvent has been dried out before reassembly and filling with fresh lube. Brake clean evaporates very nicely leaving nothing behind. One shop I use to work in would use a mixture of kerosene and laquor thinner in the parts washer . Worked very well but very flammable.
 
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