12 Valve Lost fuel on the overpass

[RogerKinney]

This rig is a 1996, 5.9 12 Valve. Two owner, mostly light recreational use with 160,000. Completely stock.

After a day long trip across the state, 350 miles, pulling trailer, final exit within 12 miles of home, truck stopped running on the overpass...coasted to a gravel parking lot.
Truck turns over fine, will not fire. Saw "water in fuel" light come on during last leg of trip. Got under the hood and pushed the drain release under the fuel filter...nothing, no water or fuel.

Waited for the truck to cool down. Tried starting with a pump or three on the accelerator - truck would fire and run for a few seconds, then quit.

I have the fuel filter, and can replace it. But some research says the problem could be the screen filter in the fuel heater unit... which I have never changed. I have put 80,000 of the total 160,000 on this rig.

Headed to NAPA for that screen filter on the fuel heater soon.

Need to know, is there something else possibly going on besides fuel filter and screen??

Also, any tips on replacing the above? I plan to prime the filter by pushing the prime button until I see bubbles from the vent bolt on top of the fuel filter housing. Alternate methods of priming would be appreciated if my pump prime button is stiff/not working. Fill the filter with diesel or even ATF?

I sure do appreciated any help or insight you can offer to get this truck running and home!
Only 12 miles to go!

Thanks in advance!!

 

[p-Bar]

fuel pump?

 

[Timd32]

Simple stuff, did you run out of fuel?

If your fuel filter is empty and you have a full tank could be the lift pump as mentioned above.

Doubt it's the little screen deal, but of course not a big deal to swap that if they have it.

if the entire system lost prime that could be a little tricky.

If the button is SUPER hard to press you can try to bump the started just a little. It could be high on the cam. I did not have to crack the filter deal, just pumped away till I heard it bypassing it makes a different noise, have read where some folks use a long say broom stick if it's super hard to reach in there.

I fill the filter some it's kind a pain till you figure out your way of getting to the filter.

From the book:
The engine is equipped with a cam-actuated lift pump. Fuel flow begins as the lift pump pulls fuel from the supply tank. The pump supplies low-pressure fuel (21-35 kPa, [3-5 psi]) to the fuel filter head, through the filter and then to the distributor injection pump.

 

[Timd32]

 

[Timd32]

Lift Pump Info

 

[Timd32]

Fuel System Bleeding (by the book) might be an easier way someone can share.


And make sure Shutdown Soleniod is doing its thing. Never know.

Good luck with your fix...

 

[RogerKinney]

Lift Pump Info

Thanks so much Timd32
I appreciate the follow up with diagrams and test procedure.
Also, appreciate the comment on the heater screen. I will save that for another day.
So here's my plan, please comment if I should go about it differently..
I will replace the fuel filter, prime it and see if the truck starts and keeps running..
If not, run to NAPA and buy a new fuel pump.
Any suggestions on fuel pump brands or what to look for?
Any suggestions on installing the fuel pump?
The Diagram really helps, nice work, thanks again for your help.

 

[RogerKinney]

Thanks so much Timd32
I appreciate the follow up with diagrams and test procedure.
Also, appreciate the comment on the heater screen. I will save that for another day.
So here's my plan, please comment if I should go about it differently..
I will replace the fuel filter, prime it and see if the truck starts and keeps running..
If not, run to NAPA and buy a new fuel pump.
Any suggestions on fuel pump brands or what to look for?
Any suggestions on installing the fuel pump?
The Diagram really helps, nice work, thanks again for your help.

 

[Timd32]

I too would make sure there is fuel in the tank, bang on it maybe you can hear it, then the filter deal, prime and try, if the thing does run. Only thing would be if the filter was not refilling, not sure how long it would run with what's in the filter.

Besides just age. The miles alone are not of concern for a stock pump from what I have seen on mine. No fuel in that filter is a concern

But say the drain is messed up and does not work, pulling the filter. will tell the tale of what's in the filter or not.

You could pull the pre-screen/heater bowl and take a look at it, it just unscrew from what I remember.

Parts wise at this point your going to get what they have, unless you get it towed, these don't fail too often. The parts store pump should be fine till you can get a decent one.

If the pump is bad.
The stock mounting bolts are kinda a pain from what I recall, some kits come with studs.

I would start small as you mentioned, and do some quick checks before tossing a lift pump on.

 

[BigPapa]

The screen on the heater is just that, a metal screen that you clean and put back. No need to get a new one.

I’ve had the drain valve on the fuel filter fail twice on me, it just starts pouring fuel. I now use a filter without the drain valve. It’s a Wix 33391. It still has a drain, it’s a screw or plug, not a valve.

As Tim mentioned, the mechanical fuel pumps are very durable and rarely fail. I replaced mine at @ 100K thinking it was the problem but it was not. The replacement has been flawless for over 450K miles. I’d wager the pump isn’t your problem, but anything’s possible.

If you do replace it, I would definitely get the studs. The stock bolts will make you want to slap your Mama. Although it is difficult to do, it is possible to drop the push rod into the engine. The “lobe” is more of an eccentric, so unless you hold your finger against the cam and the block while someone rotates the engine, you probably won’t be able to tell if it’s at the top or bottom of the stroke by just looking at it.

Best of luck.

 

[RogerKinney]

I too would make sure there is fuel in the tank, bang on it maybe you can hear it, then the filter deal, prime and try, if the thing does run. Only thing would be if the filter was not refilling, not sure how long it would run with what's in the filter.

Besides just age. The miles alone are not of concern for a stock pump from what I have seen on mine. No fuel in that filter is a concern

But say the drain is messed up and does not work, pulling the filter. will tell the tale of what's in the filter or not.

You could pull the pre-screen/heater bowl and take a look at it, it just unscrew from what I remember.

Parts wise at this point your going to get what they have, unless you get it towed, these don't fail too often. The parts store pump should be fine till you can get a decent one.

If the pump is bad.
The stock mounting bolts are kinda a pain from what I recall, some kits come with studs.

I would start small as you mentioned, and do some quick checks before tossing a lift pump on.

 

[RogerKinney]

Replaced fuel filter...there was fuel in the old filter...release valve must have been clogged? I unclogged it, works fine now.
Primed new filter until fuel bubbled out top, then hand tightened it down solid.
Truck would still not start, not even a fire.
Next I wired up the starter solenoid, in case that was the problem....still no start, no fire.
Just in case, I poured 5 gallons of diesel in... still no fire. I only have 345 miles on a full tank of 36 gallons. My worst mileage ever has been 12 mpg, at 36 gallons that would be 432 miles.
Not sure what to do next. Seems so odd. I read the symptoms of a bad fuel pump...none have appeared..
I am open to suggestions!
Thanks to all for help thus far!

 

[RogerKinney]

The screen on the heater is just that, a metal screen that you clean and put back. No need to get a new one.

I’ve had the drain valve on the fuel filter fail twice on me, it just starts pouring fuel. I now use a filter without the drain valve. It’s a Wix 33391. It still has a drain, it’s a screw or plug, not a valve.

As Tim mentioned, the mechanical fuel pumps are very durable and rarely fail. I replaced mine at @ 100K thinking it was the problem but it was not. The replacement has been flawless for over 450K miles. I’d wager the pump isn’t your problem, but anything’s possible.

If you do replace it, I would definitely get the studs. The stock bolts will make you want to slap your Mama. Although it is difficult to do, it is possible to drop the push rod into the engine. The “lobe” is more of an eccentric, so unless you hold your finger against the cam and the block while someone rotates the engine, you probably won’t be able to tell if it’s at the top or bottom of the stroke by just looking at it.

Best of luck.

 

[RogerKinney]

Thanks for the help and insight.
Maybe I should go back and clean that heater filter, that's the only thing I have not tried.
I'm glad I don't have to buy a new one.

 

[BigPapa]

How much have you pumped the primer? Like Tim said, you need to pump it until you hear a “squeak” like sound from the overflow valve. If it ran out of fuel, it will take a lot of strokes, seems I’ve counted 30-40 before, but it’s been a long time since I had one that dry.

If you turn your key on and then pull the solenoid up, it should hold itself up until you turn the key off. If it doesn’t, you need to swap the relays in the PDC and see if it stays up then.

Pumping the accelerator won’t help with starting but holding it steady with a little pressure will. When it starts it will run rough, just hold the throttle till it smooths out.

 

[Timd32]

Did you make it home, have to get it towed?

Yeah would try some of the basics one more go round. Def makes a different sound when it's done, and yes you finger might just feel like it's going to fall off.

Pre-filter screen is super easy to pull off and look at that one.

 

[BigPapa]

yes you finger might just feel like it's going to fall off.

About 18” of broom handle will save your thumb. Works well as a high idle device, too.

 

[RogerKinney]

It's late, but going to try that 30 to 40 strokes...found a pipe with a rubber end.
I will keep you posted!

 

[STeichert]

I have had the fuel heater plug melt on two different trucks and suck air through the plug. You can't see it melted until you unplug it. I filled the plug with silicone on one to get it home, and then removed the heater altogether once in the shop. The heater is not really ever needed. It about drove me crazy figuring this out, exact same symptoms yours has.

 

[RogerKinney]

About 18” of broom handle will save your thumb. Works well as a high idle device, too.

Got the 40 strokes on the primer, did not take long using the pipe.
Held the pedal about 1/4 the way down, cranked for about 5 seconds, twice. No fire...
Looking into getting it towed Monday.
I will pursue the heater filter and plug tomorrow as well.