12 valve rpm's

[MChaney]

my 95 auto will only do 2500 rpm's pulling up hill wot with a load. it has a gov spring kit, the plate pushed up and a k&n air filter. is this about all i can expect?

 

[Joe G.]

Is that the limit regardless of which gear you are in? Locked out OD? 2nd?

 

[Strick-9]

No

No, that's not all you should expect.



The governor spring kit alone should put you way past that.



Have someone push the throttle to the floor in the cab and check the linkage on the back of the injector pump for more movement. My guess is you aren't getting full throttle. It is pretty common for the throttle cables to stretch. I have mine shimmed about 1" in the cab.



The new recall #970 will replace your throttle cable, but I haven't done that yet because I can't bear to let someone work on my truck.



-Chris

 

[MChaney]

doesn't matter which gear. throttle is full travel.

 

[Joe G.]

Chris is right about the full throttle business. If your throttle lever (the one on the pump) is against the high idle stop then I would think that there is something wrong with the spring kit installation.



If you are not getting full throttle then you want to get the 970 recall done before proceeding. That can take care of some of the other throttle related possible problems. If they do it right then all the adjustments will be correct.

 

[Strick-9]

Well, if you're sure that the throttle lever is against the high idle stop when the pedal is on the floor then I would have to suspect you don't have a governor spring kit installed.



Did you install it yourself or did a pump shop do it?



As a comparison, when I had the stock torque convertor still in my truck with the camplate slid forward, I could rev to 2700-2800 RPM's and it would hold at that RPM through all the gears until the TC locked.



Tell us more about the truck and we will try to help.

How mechanically inclined are you?

Stock transmission?



-Chris

 

[MChaney]

well, how mechanically inclined am i ? sometimes not much. i have worked as a gas mechanic for dealers years ago, and i have had a few diesel tractors, but this is my first diesel truck. i put the spring kit in myself and got the measurements the same as the stock springs. i tried to loosen the tension as per b&d's instructions on the phone, but that did not help and lowered my idle. i then tightened them back up and checked to see that the arm was hitting the plate as per piers suggestion. the truck has the stock transmission and no mods other than the spring kit, k&n filter and the plate slid up. it doesn't smoke except when you first hit the pedal hard and that clears quick. it just won't pull a hill at more than 2500 and it doesn't have the power i think it should. it drops to 50 -55 mph on most hills with a load. my gasser 1 ton ford did that good.

 

[SlyBones]

I am no expert here, but.....



1. You have verified the install if the spring kit, talked with Piers, etc.

2. You have verified the throttle cable, linkage as suggested.

3. Next I would check the many other possible power loss problems on 12v's:



- valve adjustments

- boost leaks

- cat plugged

- pump timing checked

- low fuel pressure

-- overflow valve

-- fuel filter, strainer

-- lift pump



I am sure there are others. This is what comes to mind at the moment.



Since you state this is on a hill with a load, my question is how does it rev on flat ground with no load. How big is the load, what size tires, gears, and other stuff like that. Update your sig and show us what you got.



Assuming it revs OK on the flats, empty - maybe this is all you can expect with a load in a hill. The 95 auto was the 160HP motor correct. Lets say with an auto, 3. 54 gears, oversized tires, 8K-10K load, 7%+ grade, 55mph may be all its gonna be with a 160 pump, stock auto, and mostly stock motor.



Gov kit may not be helping as the problem is the power to load ratio. Just an idea. In reality your gasser ford 1ton if it had the 460 in it probably has as much power and does tow the hill just as good. Only at 6mpg and not 12-13mpg. And having to use 92 octane at $0. 30+ per gal more expensive. etc.



And for $300 for a 230/605 tst plate, I can tell you this problem will go away. You could never get your gasser to move out like this for $300 either. Verify your truck is in proper working order, get some gauges, then get a plate.

 

[dustoff]

i would agree you should check the linkage first, and you said the plate was pushed up... . like towards the pump right (just checking), but seriously you should have more power than you indicated..... good luck

 

[Deezul1]

How many RPM will it do unloaded? just driving around?

 

[MChaney]

i'm sorry for the length of time between my replies. i have limited access to the internet, and i also apologize for making you squeeze info from me. the truck has 68000 miles and had the valves adgusted at 35000. the fuel bypass on the pump{ the little bolt looking thing with the bango fitting} was updated. the lift pump was changed by a shop at approx 50000 miles and and they were supposed to set the timing. the cat is open. the truck shifts at about 2600 when going thru the gears and i don't know what it will do if i leave it in low and not shift out, but i will try if it's important

 

[Joe G.]

You probably should check all gears empty (1, 2, D with OD locked out, and D without OD locked out) on flat ground if you think you can do it without getting a ticket. You should top out on RPM at the same point in all gears. My '95 would hit the governor at about 2700/2800 in OD when it was bone stock. The whole idea is to see if you have an RPM limiting problem or a power problem.

 

[SlyBones]

Another way to try is get on the freeway, put it in 3rd locked by pushing the OD lockout button, get at about 2000rpm, and mash the pedal to the floor. empty on flat ground you should be able to run up to 2800-3000 rpm.



[edit]

Lookslike Joe and I were typing at the same time. Try his tests. Pay attention to the boost gauge if you have one.

[edit]



Do you have a boost gauge? if so while performing the above test watch the gauge. Hard to do and drive I know, but see if you can tell what RPM the boost starts to drop off.



Tell us about the load, grade of hill you are using for your test, gear ratio, tire size, etc.

 

[MChaney]

i've been on sick leave for a little while,{ had oral surgery and been living on pain pilss}, but i did manage to get out and play with the truck some. i took it to a long stretch of road and turned off the od, pulled it down to 2nd gear and stomped on it. got to 3000 rpm and i shifted to 3rd. it got to 3200 rpm and i was running out of road. one of you suggested that i may be getting all i would get with the present 95 pump. this makes the dr. performance argument make sense. but i also know that many of you have said that using him was a mistake. any more opinions.

 

[Joe G.]

It looks like you are ok for RPM so that indicates a fueling or timing problem. I was suspicious about that because my '95 would make more than just a puff of smoke with the stock plate pushed forward. Make sure that you have full throttle; ie. the lever on the pump is against the stop with the pedal on the floor. If you haven't changed the fuel filter you should do that. Also inspect and clean the prefilter. The prefilter in on the bottom of the lift pump. You need a 17mm socket to remove it. It's a good idea to put a plastic bag around it when you unscrew it to prevent a diesel bath. If you are careful you won't need to buy any parts. Check and adjust your valves. Make sure that all intercooler hose clamps are tight and the hoses are ok. If you get this far and haven't fixed it you will need to spend a little money. Check the fuel pressure on the pump side of the filter. It should be at least 20PSI. More would be better, but with 20 you should not get these symptoms. In fact, this would be a good excuse to install a fuel pressure guage. Low fuel pressure with a clean filter could be caused by a bad overflow valve or a bad lift pump. The overflow valve is more likely and is cheaper so check it first. The spring in it should be a 1/2" long. If you are ok for fuel pressure, then get the timing checked and set if needed.

 

[SlyBones]

Yep, I agree that is not an RPM problem, but a power problem. However before deciding that its a problem, I still want to hear about the "load" and the "hill". I am thinking a 95 is a 160HP setup with only the plate pushed forward ( how far ?? ):



- If you are talking about 2 jetski's on a small trailer and only barely holds 55 on minor inclines on the freeway, then you have a problem that needs diagnosed.



- If you are talking about your 12,000lb 5er only holds 55 while going up the 8% mountain pass near your home, then I say yer getting up it pretty good for a mostly stock 95 auto.



Yes these are the more extreme cases, but gets the point across. So I really want to hear about the load and hill. Then lots of others can tell us how thier stock 95 automatic did in similar situations. Then maybe you can decide if you have a 'real' problem, or if its just time to start BOMBing.



My guess is...

1. Gauges

2. Minimum of 230/605 TST Plate

3. Exhaust

... to start with and see if takes care of your 'problem'