12 valve slave cylinder swap out... need help

[SRadke]

Hey guys. Peter sent me the 12 valve slave cylinder assembly to with my new SBC dual disk but it isn't working right. The master cylinder rod is too short. I pulled it apart (beginning to wonder if that was smart ) and it looks like I need a rod the same length as my factory one but it doesn't have the right end on it. Can anybody help me out here?



I'm not far from hacking up both rods and welding parts of each together to make on but I don't think it should be that complicated. Who's installed one of these? Did it bolt in for you? Thanks.



-Scott

 

[RonA]

I believe you will need to lengthen the rod. I did mine a while back and put some pictures in my readers rigs. All you have to do is figure out how much longer to make it, cut it with a saw, and weld a sleeve over it to lengthen it.

Ron

 

[SRadke]

It sure looks like that Ron. If I have to lengthen it I'd ilke to thread it so I can adjust the length in the future..... just in case. And as a final step to your list I'll have to figure out how to bleed the system now that I've totally disassembled it



-Scott

 

[jwilliams3]

Cut and thread, towards the pedal area there is a rounded area that can be threaded with a 3/8" IIRC.



Use a "all thread" type nut, usually a 1".

 

[Tomeygun]

Hey guys. Peter sent me the 12 valve slave cylinder assembly to with my new SBC dual disk but it isn't working right. -Scott

Scott, you are killing me!!! -- Stacked boxes with a killer B2, and then Flux inj. , and then dont forget the air ride that looks awesome...



NOW a SB dual disk?? -- ok,ok,ok. . seriously, when are the twins arriving??



You are just delaying the inevitable, you know thats where your headed! :-laf

 

[hasselbach]

Hey Tomygun, how come the video link doesn't work to your ground pounding dyno run?

 

[SRadke]

Thanks guys, I'll pick up a coupling nut tomorrow and see what I can make happen.



Easy there Tom... ... if you build it they will come :-laf I narrowly avoided having to sell my left testie for the DD, imput shaft, and hydraulics so the twins will have to wait. Maybe... ... summer time What I really want to know is how your poor little 03 SO is gunna spool one of them big ol' dual ceramic ball bearing turbos Time will tell.



-Scott

 

[Tomeygun]

Hey Tomygun, how come the video link doesn't work to your ground pounding dyno run?

Thanks for pointing that out, Its fixed, i have no idea why it was broke,



hmm, no biggy, back to smoking!

 

[SRadke]

Alright, I've got my plan. I'd like to give a big thanks to member Jeff K who sent me the following info via email:

Attached is a pic of the modifications needed to use the '94-'97

master/slave cylinder. The exact dimensions you will need to measure

as I forgot where I saved them, but it is pretty easy. Just measure

from the end of the rod to the center of the hole for accuracy. You

are going to be making 1 rod out of the two.



1. You will need a small flat screwdriver to slide down inside the

master cylinder to bend out of the way the spring clips that hold the

master rod in there.



2. Cut both master rods as marked and make sure you leave enough room

for your clutch switch to slide back and forth. I slid the clutch

switch all the way forward and marked that spot. I added 1/2" and cut

there. I cut the stock rod about 2" from the eyelet and then cut it to

fit later after I threaded it.



3. 3/8" thread both ends of the two rods. On the one with the clutch

switch, only thread to the mark you made (1/2")



4. Use a 3/8" coupling nut to attach then together. Because both ends

have the same thread (right hand) a jam nut is not needed. You can use

locktite if you want.



5. Pop back in to master cylinder. The spring clips will grab it

again. I did this after the master cylinder was installed in the

firewall for ease of installing the master cylinder. I used the foam

washer off the stock master cylinder for a tighter fit in the bracket

that bolts to the firewall.



6. Route the slave cylinder down to the bell housing and install. I

tiewrapped the line to other cables, etc. to keep it from rubbing on

anything.



7. Adjust the end of the rod to your liking. This will change where

the pedal sits in relation to the floor.

I should add to step 1 that there is a clip on each side and you need to pry back both at the same time. I used a piece of copper tube slit lengthwise I could slip over the rod and push in there. Very similar to a Ford fuel line tool but shhhh, don't tell my truck I was using ford tools



I'm sorry his drawing was too big to get posted here but the directions are pretty straight forward. If anybody needs the drawing drop me a pm, I'll email it to you. Thanks again Jeff!

 

[Jeff_K]

No problems Scott! You can also e-mail or PM me with your e-mail address for the drawing.



Enjoy your DD!

 

[SRadke]

Gentlemen, I'd like to thank you all for your help. My new rod is made, installed and working perfectly. I have a couple pics I'll get uploaded and posted here in the next few days.



A few notes that may help in the future... .



1) Looks like 6 7/8" - 7" is the rod length to shoot for. That's measeured ball end to the center of the hole. Very close to the length of the factory rod.



2) If you go so far as I did to totally disassemble the master cylinder be sure you get the O-ring back in the bottom of it. Doesn't matter how many tiomes you put it together wrong and install, it won't work till that o-ring gets back in there correctly



-Scott

 

[SRadke]

OK fellas. Sorry it took so long but I've been diligently working to get my transmission overhauled and installed with the new clutch. Here are the pics of the clutch rod I made. Hopefully it will help someone else



-Scott

 

[Jeff_K]

I have added the drawing to my Reader's Rigs.....



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/displayimage.php?&photoid=19023&width=4