12 Volt Charging/LP Alarm

[Xgunfighter]

Need help. I have installed a switch to allow me to cut out my 12V batteries. I was told that the converter in my Cougar would overcharge the batteries when plugged into 115 for a long period (several days).



Problem is my LP detector churps when it operates on the converter when the batteries are not connected. :



Any suggestions would be gladly welcomed. I would like to fix this problem without buying a better converter if possible, and I don't want to disconnect the LP detector.



Thanks

 

[ntillm01]

I would check the charging rate of your converter, so you don't overcharge (boil-out) your batteries. Apparently they are adjustable for the "float voltage" and if you set that right, the battery stays charged, but not overcharged, and you can stay plugged into AC indefinitely.



Otherwise, I suspect your LP detector is wired to a battery only circuit. can you get it wired to a converter 12V circuit and solve the problem?

 

[RustyJC]

Many of the lower line converters used in RVs are primitive, single output devices. Our last two 5th wheels have had the Progressive Dynamics Intellipower converters with the Charge Wizard accessory. Since these converters, when used with the Charge Wizard, function as a 4-mode battery charger (i. e. , boost, normal, float and desulfation), we have no problems with our coach batteries even though our 5vers are plugged into shore power while in storage.



Rusty

 

[rweis]

I just put in an Progressive Dynamics Intellipower PD9180 converter with the Charge Wizard accessory yesterday. I know the batteries were low, but when I plugged in the RV the charge wizard was on fast blink. I would have thought it would have gone to boost mode for an initial charge then tapered off.



I guess you just "let it do its thing"? I know you can over ride with the Charge Wizard button, but I don't want to do that.



Bob Weis

 

[Loren]

Xgunfighter,



I don't know how your converter works, but the instructions included with mine state that it should not be operated without a battery in the wiring. I assume that the battery acts as a stabilizer of sorts for current fluctuations, or provides some load even if you aren't using DC at the time.



If I were installing a new converter, I'd get the Progressive Dynamics with the Charge Wizard. It seems to be the best available.



Loren

 

[rweis]

WELL, figuered out why the PD9180 did not go to high charge with known low barreries.



My BLACK battery negative is hooked to the WHITE wireing of the RV. The RED positive of the battery is hooked to the BLACK wireing of the RV.



Well, I thought I had it right, but NOPE. At 2 am Sunday morning while we were camping the DC went totally dead. I decided to get up and figuer it out RIGHT NOW!, mosquitoes or not!



Well, the charge wizard was blinking all right. I unplugged the PD9180, took out all of the wireing, took out the Charge Wizard to check the fuses. ALL 3 30 amp fuses were blown. Odd, a 90 amp short?



So traced the wiring. BLACK cable from the battery was grounded to the frame on a bus with all the WHITE wires from the various circuits. RED cable from the battery was connected to the BLACK wire connections in the dc fuse panel. SOOOOOOOOO BLACK battery (NEG) connects to WHITE and RED battery (POS) connects to BLACK. Who ever thought of that?



Replace the 3 30 amp fuses, CORRECTLY wired the BLACK of the RV to the POS of the PD9180, WHITE of the RV to the NEG of the PD9180, reconnected the charge wizard, plugged it back in to 120v shore power.



Worked perfectly! Went directly to high charge (solid light), had the totally discharged 2 deep cycle 12v batteries charged up by when we left at noon.



REASON I WENT INTO SO MUCH DETAIL. BLACK is NOT necessarily NEGATIVE, WHITE is not necessarily the OTHER (ie POSITIVE).



However, the PD9180 functioned perfectly, protected itself even from me, and then did exactely what is advertised when it got wired correctly.



Learn from my mistakes



Bob Weis

 

[klenger]

Good work nweis. I've learned that you cannot trust wire colors in an RV for anything, with the possible exception that a wire that is red (or whatever) on one end is likely to be red (or whatever) on the other end. Beyond that, color does not seem to mean much in an RV.



FWIW, most all wires in an airplane are white (each marked with uniquie wire number).

 

[Xgunfighter]

Well I do appreciate all the help with my problem. I found that the current from my existing converter is so bad that it needs a battery in the circuit to act as a capacitor and smooth out the flow, so to speak.



Next addition will be a good converter with a step battery charger addition.



Again, thanks for all the help.

 

[ntillm01]

Yes, RV color code is way different than automotive. Many a blown fuse can be attributed to matching wire colors at the towing plug Automotive color codes follow the Red(positve) Black(negative) as do most battery cables/connections. By the time you get inside the "house" part of the RV, the color coding follows that of traditional house wiring where White(neutral) is ground and Black(hot) is positive.



Glad you discovered the problem.

 

[RustyJC]

By the time you get inside the "house" part of the RV, the color coding follows that of traditional house wiring where White(neutral) is ground and Black(hot) is positive.

Or consider this..... many Indiana-built RVs are built by the Amish - who don't believe in electricity or have it in their homes (at least the old order ones!) Sometimes I'm amazed that any lights come on when I flip the switch! (Offered with tongue firmly in cheek. )



Good job, Bob - glad to hear that the PD/Charge Wizard protects itself so well!



Rusty

 

[klenger]

Rusty: I'm trying to picture a 34' 5th wheel being pulled by a team of horses.

 

[rweis]

Sure, horses pull lots of RV's, just have to have 400 of em



Bob Weis