12cm housing-$?

[hdm48]

Anyone know what a used and ported 12cm waistgated housing is worth? I want to try a 14 non-waistgated housing and the "she who must be obayed" said one has to go first.

So if anyone knows or wants one let me know please. I love the way this thing spools up but I want to try something new.

I have an idea and I need a 14 to do it.



thanks



Dave

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Dave, you have mail...





bob.

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

Hi Dave

I am running a wastegated 14 on mine and it gets me to 300 RWHP quite nicely but I only get to 26 psi of boost. It spools up quickly but when you get up where we are in hp you will feel a slight turbo lag - about 1 sec. or so. I'm sure that you are probably feeling a lag with your 16. Mark - Powerwagon - is running a 12 on his truck but I don't know where he got it. I would guess that your hp will drop off slightly with a 12. Don't know where you are going with this but good luck.

Bob

 

[rkubicki]

I'm about to put a 12 on - can't wait till it gets here!!

 

[JMorrow]

I have a wast-gated 12 on my 93 and love it. Instant spool up, better fuel mileage, more HP and a lot more FUN.

John

 

[rkubicki]

Hey John, how did you go about shortening your downpipe?? . . Did you cut/weld the section closest to the turbo or did you cut the end of the downpipe that slips into the center pipe at the bottom.



Its seems easier to just cut the straight section at the slip but when I did some measuring it looked like the heat shield would come pretty close to the ventilation system enclosure on the firewall.



Thanks, Rob

 

[JMorrow]

Wentland Diesel in Milton Freewater, Oregon did the work, Not sure how they did the down pipe. All I know is that it works great.



John

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Downpipe shortening may not be needed if...





If you can loosen your exhaust system clamps, particularly the one at the bottom of the downpipe, you may be able to "tease" it back enough to avoid cutting/welding.

I used visegrip "C" clamps and a pair of visegrip "chain" clamps.

I loosened the down pipe bracket till it was good and sloppy...

Then using the above clamps/grips, I would hook one edge of the C-Clamp and lock it on the clamp mount then around the pipe, then use the next one to do the same thing but lock a bit tighter... . I basically ended up "walking" the downpipe/exhaust back a full 1 1/2" and hooked up the 14cm.

It helps if you have a spare set of hands and a buddy working on the upper end near the coupling. He can call out directions... . back more, up/down etc.



I managed on my own but it was alot of crawl under, clamp... crawl out and look, crawl under etc etc.

It worked good.

In fact I recently put my 16cm back on and all I did was mount the 16 in place on the manifold, then loosen the downpipe clamp, let it pop back in place and suck 'er up with the V-Band clamp.



Try that before cutting anything.



Bob.

 

[dpuckett]

rkubicki-



When I put the 12 on my 92 (and later the 93), I cut the section of pipe right behind hte housing flange. You can see where it goes back about 2" before sweeling out slightly to the 3" DP. I cut it with a hacksaw, leaving about 3/8" of pipe attached to the flange. Weld it back with a stick (or MIG if you prefer- I dont get along with them) and reinstall. Make sure you get a 90* cut with the hacksaw, or the flange will be attached crooked. You can use a pipe cutter for a sure square cut. Downpipe stayed in close to stock position, with the heat shield about 1. 5-2" from the firewall.



Drill and tap the manifold for the T-couple while you're at it.



Daniel

 

[RHancock]

There is an adapter that banks sells that goes on the wastgated housing and bolts to the stock exhaust they are between 50-100

$ depending on where you get them. They are designed when you buy the 400$ banks housing. .

 

[rkubicki]

I think I'm going to try Bob's "cut-free" method so I can see how I like the 12cm housing... If I don't like it then I will be able to go back to my 16cm housing fairly easily.



Thanks for all of your feedback,



Rob

 

[AMikonis]

Hey Rob,



If you decide to stick with the 12, I think I know somebody local who would buy the 16 off you.



You wouldn't have to hassle with shipping or anything like that!



Andy

 

[rkubicki]

Originally posted by AMikonis

Hey Rob,



If you decide to stick with the 12, I think I know somebody local who would buy the 16 off you.



You wouldn't have to hassle with shipping or anything like that!



Andy

Thanks Andy... I will keep "that person" in mind should I want to liquidate the 16cm



By the way, I think you were the guy that told me about McMaster Carr... I just got that role of red reflective tape for the rear gate - that stuff is pretty cool... Looks good, but is really hard to put on in one piece!



Rob

 

[AMikonis]

Yep, that was me. My roll has been sitting on the bench for a few months. Have to do a little prep work on mine, and just haven't gotten around to it...

 

[AlK]

AMikonis,



Is this that red reflective tape that can be applied to the tail gate on a 92 LE. I noticed that mine is starting to deteriorate in a couple of spots. Where can this be purchased. Any information and source that you can provide will be appreciated.

---

Al

 

[AMikonis]

Hi Al,

It's a reflective tape we're trying out for a replacement for that strip. It's availble from McMaster Carr Supply Company, a fascinating place. Website:



http://www.mcmaster.com



Do a search for 5997T87 and you'll see it. Click on "catalog page" to read the description...



Andy

 

[rkubicki]

Andy,



I had some left over red paint spots and dirt under my original reflector when it fell of... I used a drill and one of those 3M coarse brillo pad wheels to get it all cleaned up - A sharp razor blade to trim around the gate handle, etc. is good to have too... The reflective tape gets really thin and stretchable when removed from its paper backing - I had to be very careful not to stretch it out of shape when applying it.



Rob