12V Cat "Test pipe" What is the DC part Number?

[HDH]

Hey guys,

I have a friend that has a 1998 12v with a cat on it.

I cant do a search because of the server being messed up right now.

I am Looking for the "Cat Test Pipe" part number for his truck.

Does anyone out there have it handy?

Thanks.

Doug.

 

[redramnc]

P/N 52019170-AB - $53 list - shop cost $38

Will probably have to order it.

 

[mcandies]

Is this pipe of such quality that it can be left on in place of the cat?

 

[redramnc]

It is not a test pipe, per se. It is listed in the D/C book as simply "pipe. " I have heard that it was originally called a "Canadian extension" - designed to replace the cat on the north of the border trucks. As such, it is the same gauge aluminized metal that the stock exhaust system is made of. It fits the cat dimensions for size so it is a direct bolt-in.



I did not realize until I changed mine that the headpipe is 3. 5" and the cat-to-muffler pipe is 4". The "extension" necks up from 3. 5" to 4" immediately behind the headpipe connection. However, the stock muffler outlet is only 3" so the restriction now becomes the tailpipe size.



I changed out my muffler at the same time to a Walker 21471 with a 4" inlet and 4" outlet. I also went ahead and sprung for a 4" tailpipe to go with it. The sound is much more to my liking now and the turbo - minus silencer ring - is very much heard through the exhaust now.

 

[The patriot]

Originally posted by mcandies

Is this pipe of such quality that it can be left on in place of the cat?

Yes. It's heavy.

Eric

 

[JPS]

TEST PIPE

I have a 1995,are all 12v the same exhaust? Exhaust on mine is stock and would like to chase the kitty away!!! jps

 

[MikeR]

There's a test pipe in the classifieds

If you guys look in the classifieds, Tschwab has a D/C test pipe for sale.



Yes, all 12v exhausts are the same.



-Mike

 

[1tuffram]

WILDCAT DIESEL PERFORMANCE

Wildcat sells the "test pipe". Go to their website and look under the pricing and ordering page. Scroll down to "exhaust kits". It's called a "test pipe resonator replacement... '94 -' 02 " and sells for $42. I paid $50. 25 + tax at the dealer (part # 520191170 AB). I tried Mopar4less, but by the time S/H was added it cost more than my local dealer. If you go to the dealer just tell them it's an exhaust pipe part or something along those lines if they ask. Their books lists it as "pipe". If you tell them what it is and your plans, you may get some resistance of them selling it.



I don't know if you live in emissions testing area, but if you do you will have to swap the test pipe out before going in since they do inspect for the cat. For that reason my test pipe is still sitting in the house. Plus the job has been on standstill since the factory exhuast clamps have the pipe crimped so bad I need a torch to get it apart (which I don't have nor know anyone who does). For some reason all the exhaust shops I went to where unwilling to do buisness with me. If I ever manage to find a way to install my test pipe I will use those flat band exhaust clamps that way it would make for quick and easy removal for the annual emissions testing.

 

[redramnc]

1tuffram - The muffler shops are legally required to replace any cat they take off with a replacement cat. I live in one of the few counties in NC that sniff and, unless you know somebody REAL well, they won't talk to you about it. A shop is basically playing "You bet your business" - if the Clean Air Nazis catch them pulling a cat they can lose their shop. I imagine that it is worse out where you are due to the proximity to Commiefornia and the bleedover of tree-huggers into the area (and yes, we get them here in the Southeast, too. )



A sawzall is a wonderful tool for dealing with exhaust pipes. Just be careful where you cut and you will be able to piece it back together with the band clamps as needed. I would suggest going to a 4" tailpipe if you change out the muffler. Doesn't make sense to go from 4" muffler outlet down to 3" tailpipe.

 

[JPS]

BUILDING TEST PIPE

Have access to 3" pipe,what else will I need ? Where can I purchase clamps and some kind of adapter? jps

 

[1tuffram]

Originally posted by redramnc

1tuffram - The muffler shops are legally required to replace any cat they take off with a replacement cat. I live in one of the few counties in NC that sniff and, unless you know somebody REAL well, they won't talk to you about it. A shop is basically playing "You bet your business" - if the Clean Air Nazis catch them pulling a cat they can lose their shop. I imagine that it is worse out where you are due to the proximity to Commiefornia and the bleedover of tree-huggers into the area (and yes, we get them here in the Southeast, too. )



A sawzall is a wonderful tool for dealing with exhaust pipes. Just be careful where you cut and you will be able to piece it back together with the band clamps as needed. I would suggest going to a 4" tailpipe if you change out the muffler. Doesn't make sense to go from 4" muffler outlet down to 3" tailpipe.

I hear you. The exhaust shops folks out here have a phobia or something when it comes to touching a cat. And yes they do preach how harsh the clean air nazis are for violators. The first place I went with my test pipe was a learning experience. I took the test pipe in with me and asked the guy if he could install it. He asked what it was and his jaw about hit the counter when I told him it was to eliminate the cat and I was willing to pay cash, no reciept. When I realized there was no way in #ell he was ever going to consider installing it I asked if he could put a torch to where the exhaust clamps crimped my pipe, separate the cat from the rest of the exhaust and then loosley reinstall it being carful not to re-crimp the pipe. He told me he would not under any circumstance help me knowing my intentions and told me to take my test pipe and myself and leave his shop. He started mummbling something about getting fined and loosing his shop Subsequent attempts all failed with using different angles to get someone to separate the crimped joints on the cat from the rest of the exhaust. I tried to have one place remove it because "I thought it was clogged and wanted it checked", they said no way would they remove it, they had a device they could hook-up to the tail pipe and test back pressure to see if it was plugged, plus I was told if they removed it they would have to torque the factory clamps back down tight enough so there was no potential leaks (which meant tightening them down until the pipe was crimmped again). I even tried some auto repar shop and same thing. I finally gave up and decided it was not worth the hassle or trouble. I did look into getting a MAPP torch from Home Depot and doing it myself, but I don't think it would get things hot enough to pound the joints apart. My only other thought was hooking up with some local TDR members and seeing if someone had a torch to get the job done. But then I'd be faced with swapping the dang cat in and out every January (middle of winter) in my apartment parking lot before going in for the annual emissions test. I have come to the conclusion it is not worth all the hassle, plus if i remove the cat I would then be straight piped which would not be a bad thing unless it attracted the attention of johnny law and resulted in a road-side exhaust inspection.



Beside I have a 2002 on order and will be free of the cat delima. I have known since shortly after moving to emissions country I would be getting a 24V before the common rail went into production, so that was another reason for not being very determined with finding a way to remove the cat and all the potential trouble it could bring. So for now the test pipe sits in the cornor, maybe when I take delivery of my 2002 I will put it to use and remove the resonator. When I get the new truck I want to experiment with various exhaust combos until I find an "acceptablly pleasing" sound (have a feeling in the end it will be 4" straight piped or with some straight thru muffler or even possibly a 4" with just the resonator). The OEM muffler for sure will fall off between the dealer and my house

 

[The patriot]

Originally posted by 1tuffram





I hear you. The exhaust shops folks out here have a phobia or something when it comes to touching a cat.

Same here, but when I went to inspection (NJ inspection is second only to Cali ) they didnt even look for the cat!!

Good thing because they wouldnt have found it!

Eric

 

[1tuffram]

The emissions shop I have went to the past 2 yrs say they DO look for a cat since thier "book" says it came with one from the factory. Each year we talk about the cat and the guy admits the cat on a diesel is BS and is one of those things where it looks good on paper, but dosn't really work all that well in real-world applications. He said the 12V Dodge diesels he tests with cats ('95- ' 98) show NO BETTER emissions results than the earlier 12V with no cats. So basically the cat is only there to politically please the EPA.



The last time I was in (January '02) we talk a bit about the cat again and the guy knew I was hinting at removing it. His parting words where about how serious and harsh the clean air nazis are here in Denver if caught. Since I knew at that time I would be purchasing a 24V I just decided to heck with the whole idea of removing the cat.

 

[illflem]

1tuffram, it won't help you since you're moving on but for others in a similar situation there is a solution. Most any welding shop will remove your cat for you, they could care less about the rules. You can then ream the insides of the cat out with a spade bit on an extension and portable drill and reinstall it. Gutting the cat it's called.

 

[RoryTek]

Sniff tests in Calif?

Wow. you guys are getting tested for smog in a non-Calif. state. Blows my mind, everyone slams Calif. for the all the smog Nazis but here in good old So. Cal. Victorville to be dead nuts on we/they don't test us!! So maybe Calif. is not as tight a**ed as some say, now if you ask about the energy problem that's a diiferent story.



My $. 02





Rory