Hard starting and RH battery voltmeter

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

Only AutoEnginuity or the Snap-On from what is know, aside from wiTech of course.
I use AutoEnginuity on mine.

So much for a $49 app and $100 dongle

 

[Ozymandias]

Sadly no works on our old trucks, but it's great on the newer ones.

Did you disconnect the FCA and tried starting like I said?

 

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

Sadly no works on our old trucks, but it's great on the newer ones.

Did you disconnect the FCA and tried starting like I said?

6-6 6 days a week. I have some plans for the weekend though.
Just to be sure, can you give me an image of what I am disconnecting and am I going to need any seal or crush washers to close it back up? Explain a bit, new grounds. thanks.

 

[Ozymandias]

Disconnect the connector within the red circle at the CP3, this is the fuel metering unit that regulates the amount of fuel going into the high pressure circuit. Disconnect is maximum fueling which it should have by default during startup cycle.
The FCA and its harness are a wear item and need replacement in some vehicles.

 

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

View attachment 141235
Disconnect the connector within the red circle at the CP3, this is the fuel metering unit that regulates the amount of fuel going into the high pressure circuit. Disconnect is maximum fueling which it should have by default during startup cycle.
The FCA and its harness are a wear item and need replacement in some vehicles.

That is really awesome information so what you're saying is that by disconnecting that it defaults to maximum fuel pressure which was there by eliminate it as a fault or if the problem continued then we know that it's somewhere else even without having to hook a computer up to it just yet which I'm still trying to work out how I get that done I'm trying not to spend too much money right now and I can get someone out here that has a scan tool just trying to run a couple comments tests such as this before proceeding just like with troubleshooting something on an aircraft always trying the 5-minute problem before you dive deep into the 2-hour problem.

It seems like a 5-minute troubleshooting step to me thank you very much.

The truck has just under 268,000 mi on it. You're saying this is a wear item then it's quite possible also, sometimes I like to get out in front of things before they happen isn't this one of the items that industrial injection has in its bag of parts? I know a lot of people are saying the bag of parts is BS and it may very well be, but I believe this is in there along with two other items.

So since this seems to happen the longer I leave the truck parts I guess what I should do is leave the truck parked over the weekend disconnect this thing and try to start it up on my glorious Monday and see how it goes can I drive around with this thing disconnected? If I have a smarty tune on the truck should I remove the tune while doing this troubleshooting?

I know that it really shouldn't matter that much on start I guess that's more of a question that has to do with should I only be starting the truck with this thing disconnected or should I be driving the truck with this thing disconnected just to see how things go for a while?

 

[Ozymandias]

Yes you do the right conclusion from what I've written.

And you should only start it that way and idle it. No driving.

And it will sound very rough but this is only combustion not mechanical, don't be afraid of it.

 

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

Yes you do the right conclusion from what I've written.

And you should only start it that way and idle it. No driving.

And it will sound very rough but this is only combustion not mechanical, don't be afraid of it.

You mentioned monitoring rail pressure. The CTS does but it has that 1/4 second lag thing for readouts so, IDK if that is sensitive enough. It also reads KPSI with a tenths place, such as 22,100psi would read 22.1 kpsi and I assume it rounds up the tenth after 500 psi or so.

It will sound weird but no worries? I'd feel remiss not to confirm, I hope you understand. So we are just seeing if she starts clean with this quick test and this odd combustion is NOT going to make me sorry? This once it starts we shut down after 15 seconds fr our purposes anyway since no scan tool as of yet. Might it throw a code I can clear with the Smarty?
All true? Thanks again.

 

[Ozymandias]

No there is no sorry for this, under load you experience the same rail pressure but then you can't hear it.

Actually it sounds very much like a 24V with the VP44.

And yes, if it starts properly you can shut it down and reconnect the plug.
You can do that under several circumstances like hot engine, cold engine, and everything in between.

 

[AH64ID]

You mentioned monitoring rail pressure. The CTS does but it has that 1/4 second lag thing for readouts so, IDK if that is sensitive enough. It also reads KPSI with a tenths place, such as 22,100psi would read 22.1 kpsi and I assume it rounds up the tenth after 500 psi or so.

The CTS3 reads fast enough to utilize as an accurate rail psi gauge.

It would only round up after 50 psi, not 500. You can also add decimal points and adjust the refresh rate.

After many years of monitoring rail psi with and OBDII device and tuning these engines I can say with confidence that 1/4 second refresh rates with 0.0 indications is very adequate. Rail pressure jump too much under normal operation to justify faster indications.

 

[Ozymandias]

The CTS3 reads fast enough to utilize as an accurate rail psi gauge.

It would only round up after 50 psi, not 500. You can also add decimal points and adjust the refresh rate.

After many years of monitoring rail psi with and OBDII device and tuning these engines I can say with confidence that 1/4 second refresh rates with 0.0 indications is very adequate. Rail pressure jump too much under normal operation to justify faster indications.

Does it read during cranking?

 

[AH64ID]

Does it read during cranking?

Never tried, but if you manually wake it up then it should. Normally starting the engine wakes it up.

 

[Rowdy Dalton]

Ok, where is a good place to order a quality crossover cable?
Any links?

 

[seafish]

Genos garage or https://custombatterycables.com/

 

[Rowdy Dalton]

Genos garage or https://custombatterycables.com/

I don't see anything but complete wire kits, for Geno's.
For Custom Battery Cables I believe this is it.
https://custombatterycables.com/product/dodge-right-positive-battery-to-battery-82-inch-880/

 

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

No there is no sorry for this, under load you experience the same rail pressure but then you can't hear it.

Actually it sounds very much like a 24V with the VP44.

And yes, if it starts properly you can shut it down and reconnect the plug.
You can do that under several circumstances like hot engine, cold engine, and everything in between.

What do you mean by hot or cold engine? I am moving from a super hot climate to the NorthWest. Is this something that would help on the grid delete crowd or are you speaking to something else?

 

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

Genos garage or https://custombatterycables.com/

Genos sent me straight to that link there. I will be installing the kit this winter. It was a bit more than I was expecting but it seems like a good investment for a 20yr old truck. The "hard start kit" is the same thing with a thicker starter cable. Not much more, going with that on the grounds of why not a thicker wire.