Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 12V injector installation?

[lpearson]

Just got my Piers 370's, have the instructions but thought I would ask those who have installed injectors before about any other tips not on the instructions. I did a search and got a lot of useful information --- but still uncertain and a little apprehensive.



Does anyone have DD's instructions they could e-mail to me?

-- email address removed -- Are they more informative?



Any help would be much appreciated!



Lowell

 

[JGK]

Lowell,



It's really not that big a deal. Probably the hardest parts are getting the old injectors out and getting the little square cut o-ring dust seals put in. Plan on about 2 hours to give yourself plenty of time.



First, take an injector with you and go find a nut that will screw on to the top of the injector on the same threads the injector line nut screws on to. I can't remember its specs. Someone here may be able to help. This nut will be used to remove the injector. Then get a piece of 1" electrical conduit cut to about 1-3/8" long. The nut and short conduit is your injector removal tool.



Clean the top of the engine around the valve covers and injectors. Blow the area out good with air, too.



Remove all your valve covers. This allows more clearance to move your injector lines aside without bending them. Remove all the injector line clamps except the big one under the intake horn. Remove the two hold-down clamps on the driver's side of the valve covers. They have a single bolt each that holds them to the intake plenum. You can remove the lines completely, but it's not necessary. However, you need not remove your valve covers then, I suppose.



Unscrew all the injector nuts. I think a 3/4" open end works. Remove the tiny banjo bolts from each injector on the return line and remove the line entirely (banjo bolt on the fuel filter top, too). I think these are 10mm (may be 8mm).



The injector hold down nut uses a 24mm (deep), I believe. Remove the nut and slide it off. Now put your short piece of conduit over the injector and screw on the new nut you got. The nut should simply pull the injector loose as it scews down on the conduit. Pop it out. Make sure the copper washer came with it. Blow the hole out with compressed air. Use the thinnest copper washer that came with the injectors from PDR on the new injector. Put a dab of anti-sieze or grease on the injector where the washer sits to keep the washer in place as you put the injector in it's hole. Drop it in. Note the ball on the side of the injector lines up with a groove in the hole, toward the exhaust manifold as I remember. Put a little anti-sieze on the injector hold down nut and screw it on.



Do the above paragraph with the other 5 injectors. Torque the nuts to spec. Now slip the little square cut o-rings on each injector and push it into place. The short piece of conduit may help, plus the use of a small, flat blade screw driver.



Put the return line back on with their banjo bolts. Use the new horseshoe shaped copper seals on each bolt.



Thread each injector line nut on each injector. Leave them slightly loose. Put on the line clamps and re-install the 2 hold-down brackets on the intake plenum. Re-install your valve covers.



Once it's all ready to go except tightening the injector nuts, crank the engine over a few seconds until you get fuel past the nuts. Blow off the fuel from around the injectors and off the manifold (no fires needed!) and tighten down the injector nuts.



I think that covers the main points.



Fire it up and check for leaks. Once all is OK, go for a drive. Watch your EGTs!!



Enjoy,

-Jay

 

[midwestdually]

wow... great read!

 

[lpearson]

Jay- Thanks for the info.

Jay,



Please check your PM.



Thanks,

Lowell

 

[Ben Rumson]

Sweet post JGK !



Thanks

 

[Jim Fulmer]

First, take an injector with you and go find a nut that will screw on to the top of the injector on the same threads the injector line nut screws on to



I think it's an M14x1. 5 pitch nut.



I think a 3/4" open end works



Works great.



The injector hold down nut uses a 24mm (deep), I believe



15/16ths works also.



Now slip the little square cut o-rings on each injector and push it into place



Pain but it needs to be done.



Watch your EGTs!!



Kick in the pants



Good post, especially about the conduit, I did the vise grip in the nut wiggle trick, this way sounds better.



Jim

 

[rjones]

This is what I made up for a puller the long one is for the front and the short for the 2 rear injectors...

 

[bighammer]

I used a piece of copper water pipe instead of the conduit. On #5 it seemed to slide down into the head like between the injector and the head. Ifm I were to do it again, I would sweat coupling sleeve onto the pipe to make the dia a bit bigger. I was worried I'd have a stuck injector wedged in more firmly with a copper pipe



Very nice post.

 

[JGK]

Geez, guys. Thanks for the nice words. I just sorta banged it out quickly since I thought Lowell might be wanting to get the parts and do it this weekend. I'm glad it made some sense... I wasn't sure it would!



Jim - thanks for filling in the blanks.



-Jay

 

[rjones]

Boy those 370 are sure cold blooded..... takes a couple extra cranks to start in the morning and if it sets all day without being plugged in I need to baby it a little before it will idle on its own,nothing major just a little different than the stock ones... ... anyone else have this problem?... ... Rick

 

[JGK]

rjones,



Though it's been about a year and a half since I put mine in, it seems to me I had similar issues.



The solution was to remove the little cap over the preload screw for the diarphram on the back of the AFC housing and turn it in about a half turn, +/-. This seems to increase the fueling just a little at start up. Since then, mine fires up immediately, even on cold winter mornings.



-Jay

 

[rjones]

Originally posted by JGK

rjones,



Though it's been about a year and a half since I put mine in, it seems to me I had similar issues.



The solution was to remove the little cap over the preload screw for the diarphram on the back of the AFC housing and turn it in about a half turn, +/-. This seems to increase the fueling just a little at start up. Since then, mine fires up immediately, even on cold winter mornings.



-Jay

Ill try that Thanks... ... Rick

 

[radixr]

Lowell,



If you decide to use the puller that Jay described, I would recommend you use 3/4" E. M. T. (thinwall conduit) and use a tubing cutter to cut it to length so that the ends are parallel. I removed the injection lines as an assembly -- not hard to do. Just be sure to keep the ends protected from dirt. You will like the 370's.

 

[lpearson]

Good stuff

Thanks to everyone for the replies.



Lowell

 

[BrentL]

Does anyone happen to have torque values for the 12V Injector replacment procedure?



Also, can someone confirm HP of this Bosch Injector part number: 0 423 131 753



Thanks,

Brent

 

[DSiemens]

Injector (15/16) holddown nut is 44 ft/lb.

 

[KLockliear]

If you bought injectors from DD, you'd have our instructions.

 

[ALehman]

A slide hammer works to pull the injectors

 

[JoshPeters]

When I did mine... . No special made tools... . I took clamped a vise grip on the injector body, took a lady finger and pried them up gently, one side then the other. When I got to the back one I just used a regular pry bar. They all popped right out.



Mine starts WAY better in the winter with the 370's. With the stock injectors it would miss and shake like a wet dog. Now it fires up smooth... . I just can't get into the throttle cause it'll miss. (right where the 370's stumble)



Josh