Here I am

12v or 24v...that is the question

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

2002 Cruise control

Not sure about rebuilding your starter solenoid?? Look here!!

Status
Not open for further replies.
Need opinions on which engine would be better for me, 12 valve or 24 valve?



Will be using to two 18' utility trailer, skid steer, tracks and trencher. Weight with trailer and stuff about 11-12k lbs.



What I want is a RELIABLE and strong truck. Do NOT plan on bombing the truck. Only thing is maybe upgrading transmission if I end up getting an auto (want a stick. ) The truck I buy will probably have AT LEAST 75,000 miles. From what I can gather the lifter pumps are more reliable (mechanical) on the 12v trucks. I know the 24v trucks have more power, but want something that will go 300k+ miles.



The only things about the newer trucks that I really like are 1) the 6 speed, 2) the new aluminum wheels, 3) trailer tow mirrors, 4) quad cab.



I can always buy aftermarket wheels, might get the lucerix mirrors anyway, and can get 98 12 with a quad cab right?



Ok guys, this is your chance to tout the advantages of your trucks. Will be posted in 24v and 12v forums.



Again... thanks for all the info.
 
Will a 24 valve even make it to 75k?;)

Unless you like poorer fuel economy and own a scan tool to perform even basic trouble shooting go with a 12 valve.
 
Last edited:
Love my 24V. illflem mine has 75K, so at least one made it



:p . I tow a 10K fiver with it no problem. I'm pretty sure the lift pump is the same on both. The injection pump(VP 44) is electronic on a 24v, P pump on 12v is mechanical(sp?).



Glenn
 
Ive had both,im partial to the 12V,while i think the 24V is a good engine,the 12V is a much more efficient engine,and runs so much smoother. I drove a freinds 95 the other day,wow,it runs so nice and quite,i sure do miss my 12V. BTW my 12V got 3-5 mgh better than my 24v. I would lightly bomb any 12V,they dont have enough power stock,the only 24v that does is the HO.
 
RELIABLE?

No mods? 12v is my opinion

or you can go modcrazy and put a P7100 on a 24v.

I get 24v's in for repair often, I never see P pump 12v,s for problems ,just mods:D
 
Sdaves,



I ordered and picked up one of the last few 12v's just before Xmas 1997. Really like my 6BTA which now has 74K miles. I like the simplicity of the motor, No computer, etc. As far as power, I can tell you I have always had enough power to go & get anywhere I want. My 7550 lb truck (incl me) will not do 0-60 in 9 secs. like the new Duramax, I do it in 12-13 according to G-Tech. I'm in no hurry. I average 17 -19 mpg in 50/50 traffic. Runs like new, I'm anal about maintence ! My engine is cleaner than the truck.



Ron
 
12v vs 24v

sdaves, I wish I knew answer. My 96 12v 5-speed has 141,000 miles and except for replacing a leaking transfer pump at about 75,000 miles, CTD has been trouble free. It gets 21-22 MPG empty and 12-13 MPG towing 32 ft 5th wheel weighing 12,000 lbs. I have two friends with 24v automatics. They get less than 20 MPG empty. One with 2001 24v also pulls a 32 ft trailer, it does weigh more than mine,and when we travel together he uses more fuel towing. Seems the 24v engines always need some electronic control adjusted or replaced, especially TPS. I like the simplicity and reliability of my mechanical controls. Really am comparing apples to oranges since I have 5-speed and theirs are autos.



I plan to purchase a 2003 (still don't like their looks) but sometimes wonder if we should keep the proven and reliable 96 for another 100,000 miles or so. I will read other members' opinions with interest.
 
thanks

Keep it coming.



I posted in the 24v forum as well, and seems that for what I want the 12v seems to make more sense for me.



About the only thing I can think of doing to the truck is definately an exhaust system and maybe BHAF.



I REALLY want something reliable, I love working on stuff, but I am NOT a mechanic.



I was thinking of the injector pumps when I said lifter pumps... sorry.



Well, I cant do a thing until I sell my truck, plus there is VERY slim pickins as far as 12v are concerned.



I am looking for a 1998 12v, 5 speed, quad cab 4wd short bed.



Thanks
 
Re: thanks

Originally posted by sdaves

About the only thing I can think of doing to the truck is definately an exhaust system and maybe BHAF.



As an alternative to the BHAF, check out the aFe Mega Cannon, it is an awesome system
 
It is hard to find a good used Dodge CTD, either 12Valve or 24Valve. Why, because people buy them and keep them. I am not saying that you won't find one but it will take you several months. If you want a 5 speed QC 4x4, your best bet is to take either the 24 or the 12 whichever you can find in that configuration. Good luck :)
 
Heres the choice:

1)Truck with a tractor engine. (12 volts to start it)

2)Truck with a tractor engine that has had 12 extra vavles, an electric POS lift pump and electronically controlled timing added to it. (courtesy of the EPA)

:confused: :confused: :confused: Easy choice huh. BTW,at the least ,get a plate and Piers GSK. :D
 
THANKS

Thanks again for the replies. I agree that I may have ti "jump" on the first good priced great shape truck that comes along.



Gotta sell this Ford that is taking up garage space first.
 
The only way to fly is a 12-valve with a Bosch P7100 pump... .



The 24-valve trucks have a higher Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC) and they will always eat more fuel... no matter what.



As for lift pumps..... I think the proof is in the pudding... . 24-valve trucks have a BAD reputation, the same can't be said for 12-valve trucks.



Injection pumps... . 12-valve ($2200 brand new..... IF you ever had to buy one... ) they are known to go 500,000+ miles without a hitch. 24-valve trucks ($1200 brand new... . save your pennies you will be buying at least one... . )... . you'll be lucky to make it to the 100,000 mile warranty... . there are exceptions, however.



Ease of maintenance..... about equal... . but the 24-valve trucks have an easy-change fuel filter.



Bang for the buck..... 12-valve... . a minimum of 250+hp (700ft. /lbs. ) at the wheels will cost you next to no $$. Those #'s are a $500+ proposition on a 24-valve... . and then you run the risk of damaging your injection pump.



Reliability - 12-valve... all the way. Too many sensors and ECM/PCM controlled parameters on a 24-valve. As was mentioned before... the only electricity a 12-valve needs to run is to start it (provided that the shut off solenoid is disconnected... . ). 24-valve trucks need juice to just to run... . no arguement here.



I'm my opinion, buy 12-valve truck... . but if you must... . buy a 24-valve truck..... at least then you're not driving around in a Duramax or a Powerstroke powered truck... .



Matt
 
I only looked for two years for my 98 12 valve had a 93 cummins I was so happy to find one of the last to be made 12 valvers. I was lucky three peaple wanted the truck I stopped for and bought had I been 30 sec later it would not be mine today. If you find a gem of a 12 valver buy it do not wait if you really want one Just my input good luck. Patrick:)
 
12 Valve!!

I LOVE my '98 12 valve. I agree with all the above posts. I paid a little too much for my wrecked and partly fixed truck but it was close by and I needed it right away (had car totaled) and they are hard to find so I got it and I am glad I did. Oh and it was all the right configuration I was looking for (12v, 5 speed, long bed, 4x4, quad cab). I think the 24 valve base engine is good but the fueling and all the electronic controls are for the birds. Anyone who wants reliability and ease of do-it-yourself maintenance and trouble shooting then it's 12 valve all the way. Anyway I'm starting to repeat what has already been said. Good luck finding a truck.
 
12 vs 24

I can only add to the positive aspects of the 12 v.

I bought mine 4 months ago. I searched the internet in the chicago [ its where I live ] area. I found plenty to choose from. I'm certain you can in your area. They are still calling me to see if I need a truck.

The big diff. for me was, look a the engine compartment for ability to work on. I can do a lot of work on a 12 v. but try to get at the last two cylinders on the 24 v. It only gets worse for the 4 th. generation. Are they trying to tell us something?

My 0. 02 worth.



WAYNES WORLD
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top