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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 12V Swap into 1996 Ram 1500

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Transmission sugestions

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Just thinking, no plans yet. What do you guys think would be the major hurdles to install a 12V CTD from a 1993 250 4x4 into a 1996 Ram 1500 2wd? The CDT has a 4 speed auto behind it and the 1500 has a 5 speed std.



I'm sure some will say the front end won't take it but, what would be the problem with installing 3/4 ton front end parts to take the load?



I'd prefer to stay with a std but my parts truck is a auto so I might have to concede. What I'm looking for here is MPG in a truck. I want something that'll cruise on the hwy for cheap... relatively cheap.



The 250 now will get about 23 mpg hwy so I would think after a swap like this, the 1500 should do at least that good, probably better. If it's only 23, in the 1500, I'll be happy.
 
The money you'll spend to get that accomplished, even if you're only buying incidentals to make everything fit, will buy allot of gas.



I guess if I had allot of time on my hands I might try it for the novelty of it. But then I'd use a Dakota as the recipient. The entire drivetrain will have to be upgraded. The little dinky 1/2t rearend will not last. The little dinky 1/2t frame will twist and flex everytime you turn a corner. The little dinky 1/2t brakes will laugh at you when you ask them to slow you down.



Sell the 1/2T and the '93 and buy a diesel that will suit your needs. You're trying to put 10lbs of poop in a 5lb bag.



Jon
 
I wouldnt do it.

The brakes suck on the chassis these engines were made for.

1/2 ton brakes, tires, suspension etc just aint going to cut it.

JM. 02 YMMV BYOB dont take any wooden nickels etc.
 
if i where you sell the parts truck for what you can then take the money and buy a 4bt instead of the 6bt your thinking about. the 4bt is very fuel efficeint and has more torgue then the gasser in it plus is weighs roughly the same so the chassis will handle it withough much issue. also the manuel trans will probably bolt up to the 4bt without much problem and it would survive the torque. one problem you would run into with either the 4 or the 6cyl is emmisions you have to put in an engine from the same year or newer for it to be legal.



this is a swap i want to do at sometime in my life, and as i mentioned there are a lot less mods and changes that need to be made with a 4cyl.
 
Thanks for all the replies. Sounds like all good advice.



As for brakes and diff go though, I know the brakes and rear end on a early 80's 1/2 ton are identical to those on a late 70's C body and those C bodies weigh in at over 5000 lbs... far more than any half ton, and, the brakes on a 1996 half ton have got to be "better" than those on a 1984 half ton for example. I can't see brakes, or even the stout corporate 9. 25" rear end in a half ton being a huge weak link. This isn't going to be a towing machine after all. Even if I did want to tow though, I've towed a 8000 lb load for 1500 miles at 60 - 70 mph and no issues in a 77 New Yorker with a 440 and the same 9. 25 rear end as a half ton... actually a worse ratio diff for towing than a half ton would have. I can't say it's a "weak" rear end. I'm not trying to be argumentative, I just like to get discussion going so I can learn.



As for the frame, is it actually weaker than a 3/4 ton?



The reason I don't want to buy a diesel as one poster suggested is, you can't get a diesel in a std cab short bed, which my 96 is.
 
if i where you sell the parts truck for what you can then take the money and buy a 4bt instead of the 6bt your thinking about. the 4bt is very fuel efficeint and has more torgue then the gasser in it plus is weighs roughly the same so the chassis will handle it withough much issue. also the manuel trans will probably bolt up to the 4bt without much problem and it would survive the torque. one problem you would run into with either the 4 or the 6cyl is emmisions you have to put in an engine from the same year or newer for it to be legal.



this is a swap i want to do at sometime in my life, and as i mentioned there are a lot less mods and changes that need to be made with a 4cyl.



I really like that idea. A 4BT would be a far better engine for what I want. I'm not sure where to find one in my area though. I've been keeping my ear to the ground for a while an haven't seen anything. What's a reasonable price for a 4BT?
 
Assuming the brakes are the same as the 2500's (which they arent) I'd still advise against it due to the suspension differences.

I also wouldnt approach it for the one reason... . liability. Far too a litigious society for shenanigans like that.

The 4bt is more appropriate an engine I suppose. If it's within a few hundred lbs of the original engine I'd say go for it.
 
Give Garmons Diesel a call and ask them about the swap. They did it and had some pretty good results.
 
I really like that idea. A 4BT would be a far better engine for what I want. I'm not sure where to find one in my area though. I've been keeping my ear to the ground for a while an haven't seen anything. What's a reasonable price for a 4BT?



well i personally dont think its out of the realm or reasonable to pay 2k for a good one. yes i know they are smaller less power all of that but they are escentially the same engine and a good 6 cyl is worth about 2k so i think for a good 4 its on the high side but still fair. as far as where to get one you might find one out of the right year bread trucks they used chevy tans in them and 4bts but those are usually low power 80 to 100. i would keep an eye on ebay and look for one there the 4bts ranged from around 60 horse to 130 horse. ive noticed that the higher horse versions are newer and have a p pump which i like better then the ve pump so look for that too. i think you could probably get a soild 4bt shipped to you for around 3k just look around and see what you find then evaluate it for what you want.



Thanks for all the replies. Sounds like all good advice.



As for brakes and diff go though, I know the brakes and rear end on a early 80's 1/2 ton are identical to those on a late 70's C body and those C bodies weigh in at over 5000 lbs... far more than any half ton, and, the brakes on a 1996 half ton have got to be "better" than those on a 1984 half ton for example. I can't see brakes, or even the stout corporate 9. 25" rear end in a half ton being a huge weak link. This isn't going to be a towing machine after all. Even if I did want to tow though, I've towed a 8000 lb load for 1500 miles at 60 - 70 mph and no issues in a 77 New Yorker with a 440 and the same 9. 25 rear end as a half ton... actually a worse ratio diff for towing than a half ton would have. I can't say it's a "weak" rear end. I'm not trying to be argumentative, I just like to get discussion going so I can learn.



As for the frame, is it actually weaker than a 3/4 ton?



The reason I don't want to buy a diesel as one poster suggested is, you can't get a diesel in a std cab short bed, which my 96 is.



roadhogg your probably right the brakes are big enough to stop the truck well enough on a stop to stop basis however i dont think they will do it for very long. your right the brakes are better then they used to be but they dont really hold up any better. whats been done is the brakes respond better require less pedal effort to engage and other things that make the brake feel better to the average driver. however the engineers have calculated all this stuff out and while they feel better the trucks are lighter and smaller then before and so smaller brakes are acceptable. these brakes are not going to handle the 1000 plus lbs of a 6 cyl cummins for very long. yeah new brakes and you smash the pedal the truck will stop within reason but they wont do it for very long(read they will wear fast)



as for the axels the corp. 9. 25 is a good stout axel and they can handle a lot of weight for a semi floater however the monster torque these 6cyls put out will twist everything up. the splines in the axel just arent meant to handle the big torgue that can come on so instantly at the bottom end like these engines can do. taking off from a stop is the highest torque load the axel is gonna see and gassers ease into the power band the cummins starts in the power band and produces a lot more power. if you do go with the 6cyl i would suggest a whole new powertrain the 1/2 ton trans wont take the abuse the rear end might hold up for a while but in the end something is going to look like a pretzel the torgue is just too much even driving nicely which cant always happen.



i do think it would be kinda sweet to see a 6cyl in a small 1/2 ton but id want it as a drag racer or street toy. im thinking about what you said and wanted to play devils advocate to give you food for thought either way it would be a cool truck.
 
sounds like the answer is to get a reg cab longbed and shorten it, swap beds and shorten the frame and driveshaft, that would be a ton easier then modifying a 1500 to take a engine that it wasn't designed to handle and reduce the fabrication to a much smaller amount, plus the electrical and fuel systems would be correct instead of modified and spliced together



The reason I don't want to buy a diesel as one poster suggested is, you can't get a diesel in a std cab short bed, which my 96 is.
 
well i personally dont think its out of the realm or reasonable to pay 2k for a good one. yes i know they are smaller less power all of that but they are escentially the same engine and a good 6 cyl is worth about 2k so i think for a good 4 its on the high side but still fair. as far as where to get one you might find one out of the right year bread trucks they used chevy tans in them and 4bts but those are usually low power 80 to 100. i would keep an eye on ebay and look for one there the 4bts ranged from around 60 horse to 130 horse. ive noticed that the higher horse versions are newer and have a p pump which i like better then the ve pump so look for that too. i think you could probably get a soild 4bt shipped to you for around 3k just look around and see what you find then evaluate it for what you want.



roadhogg your probably right the brakes are big enough to stop the truck well enough on a stop to stop basis however i dont think they will do it for very long. your right the brakes are better then they used to be but they dont really hold up any better. whats been done is the brakes respond better require less pedal effort to engage and other things that make the brake feel better to the average driver. however the engineers have calculated all this stuff out and while they feel better the trucks are lighter and smaller then before and so smaller brakes are acceptable. these brakes are not going to handle the 1000 plus lbs of a 6 cyl cummins for very long. yeah new brakes and you smash the pedal the truck will stop within reason but they wont do it for very long(read they will wear fast)



as for the axels the corp. 9. 25 is a good stout axel and they can handle a lot of weight for a semi floater however the monster torque these 6cyls put out will twist everything up. the splines in the axel just arent meant to handle the big torgue that can come on so instantly at the bottom end like these engines can do. taking off from a stop is the highest torque load the axel is gonna see and gassers ease into the power band the cummins starts in the power band and produces a lot more power. if you do go with the 6cyl i would suggest a whole new powertrain the 1/2 ton trans wont take the abuse the rear end might hold up for a while but in the end something is going to look like a pretzel the torgue is just too much even driving nicely which cant always happen.



i do think it would be kinda sweet to see a 6cyl in a small 1/2 ton but id want it as a drag racer or street toy. im thinking about what you said and wanted to play devils advocate to give you food for thought either way it would be a cool truck.



Thanks for taking the time for this reply, Mhannink. :) I guess if I'm bent on using my 96 1500 shorty, I'll have to source out a 4BT and by your advice, a 4BTS. I already own a 98 3500 dually 24V diesel so this 1500 is just a little commuter that'll carry more than the car will.
 
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