Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 12v turbo problem and questions

[Kiohio]

Just bought the truck. Little prob already.....

It is obvious that it has had stuff done to it, not sure what all it has had done though.

96 that is in sig.

Truck runs strong, but seems very sluggish on bottom end.

Turbo will hit 40 psi. I keep it out of this range as much as possible.

EGTs run 700 with no load flat highway.

While towing approx 10k I have to watch the egt's on almost any grade.

It also seems to bark at times with a load on it pulling a hill.

It will also bark if I let off of the pedal too quick, I don't mean real quick either I have to pay attention to keep it from doing it.

Now to the question. It has developed a ticking noise from the turbo.

I am afraid I will need to replace it. What would be the best economical choice if so? Buy a bigger turbo? or get a stock turbo and try to set the truck "back".

I really don't have a bunch of cash to dump into it right now.

It is a towing/daily driver.

Not looking to BOMB it any further than what it is now.

Just tidy up what has been done and chase leaks.



Thanks,KO

 

[dpuckett]

If it is ticking, I'd check for exhaust leaks, esp manifold gaskets.



As for the barking, it sounds like it may be too high in the boost range and out of its map for efficient operation.



High EGTs and sluggishness sounds like the timing may have slipped. Reset it to the 16-16. 5range and see how that does. ALso check your valve adjustment- that will make it sluggish when they get real bad (as in never been done at 240K). Check your intercooler boot clamps and give it a good once over.



As for a new turbo, I think a PDR HX35 would be good for you- little upgrade from stock, MWE, use your old connections front and rear. Just have to break it in, though.



Good luck.



Daniel

 

[Kiohio]

The sluggish is... . when you punch it when leaving from a dead stop it will smoke bad, and doesn't seem to do much of anything else.
The only way to keep it from leaving a big fog it to give VERY little throttle.
It acts like a gasser with way too big of carb on it.
It doesn't bog like a gasser would but doesn't do much of anything then comes on real strong, when the turbo catches up.
I believe it has a stock turbo on it.
I need to look hard and check th WG operation, I don't like the 40 psi runs.
From a dead stop I think my 89 would outrun it. Up to about 100ft LOL
With 4. 10's I thought it would be stronger on bottom.

Thanks, KO

 

[hsmith]

The PDR HX35 did not cure my barking problem. Got a little better when I went with the 16cm housing. Now with the Super B barking is gone. Spools real good too.

You have way too much lag for the stock 35. Did someone put a bigger exhaust housing on it?

 

[Kiohio]

Not sure I need to take a closer look at the housing.

I'm so used to looking at the 89... LOL



KO

 

[EHarvey]

Just bought the truck. Little prob already.....

It is obvious that it has had stuff done to it, not sure what all it has had done though.

96 that is in sig.

Truck runs strong, but seems very sluggish on bottom end.

Turbo will hit 40 psi. I keep it out of this range as much as possible.

EGTs run 700 with no load flat highway.

While towing approx 10k I have to watch the egt's on almost any grade.

It also seems to bark at times with a load on it pulling a hill.

It will also bark if I let off of the pedal too quick, I don't mean real quick either I have to pay attention to keep it from doing it.

Now to the question. It has developed a ticking noise from the turbo.

I am afraid I will need to replace it. What would be the best economical choice if so? Buy a bigger turbo? or get a stock turbo and try to set the truck "back".

I really don't have a bunch of cash to dump into it right now.

It is a towing/daily driver.

Not looking to BOMB it any further than what it is now.

Just tidy up what has been done and chase leaks.



Thanks,KO

you may just need a little afc adjustment , you may be overfueling on the bottom and as some people might say (putting out the fire). any idea what the timing is set at , that might be a place to start . hope it helps.

 

[arthr31]

Yea, sounds like my truck. I'm over fueling big time. Does this have a different fuel plate in it? Sounds like the stock turbo cannot handle the amount of fuel being delivered quick enough. With that said, either cut back fuel or add more air (e. g. faster/bigger turbo).

Or. . like me, drive slowly and sanely (yea right) LOL

Your symptoms are very similar, smoke, barking, slow take off, fast acceleration, etc. Sounds like less fuel or more air...

Good luck.

 

[Kiohio]

Well I've been looking at the truck.
Turbo says HX35w
The WG is completely disabled.
I have no idea about much of anything on the truck except that it has had a good bit of stuff done to it.
I want to cut back the fuel for sure. Gotta study up on my 12v's.
I will check it out further when I get a chance to give it a breather.
Using it daily now and watching the durned EGT gauge closely.
Thanks, KO

BTW I did see what looked like a little bit of exhaust "black" around a few of the exhaust manifold flanges. One of the bolts I could fit a finger nail plus under the head.
Almost afraid to try to tighten.

KO

 

[Hammer]

700 degrees cruising... .

I do not see that as out of the ordinary or a big problem however,if your towing heavy and have alot of grades heat will be a concern.



My idea since your in a cost efficent mode,either repair the disabled wastegate or spend 150 and buy a 16cm exhaust housing which will help your with your egts. Of course you could slide the plate back or tighten down the starwheel some to lighten the fuel load which will also lower egts.



Sluggish and ticking sounds can go hand in hand. If the exhaust gaskets are blown out they will tick and cause a boost loss which will cause sluggishness. Hope this helps some..... Andy

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

I would check all your boost clamps and make sure they're tight. Next thing is take the cover off where the cam plate is and try sliding it back to the middle . . . I'm guessing you'll find it slid most of the way forward (towards front of engine). Try these two things and see if manners get better.

Lastly there's a decent chance it has 370 injectors. These run smokey. You might look for a set of 215s to try swapping in.

Here is a web page that has some good information on 12-valves http://dodgeram.org/support_pgs/diesel_ix.htm

 

[Kiohio]

Thanks alot guys.

I've been reading all the links to the plate and such.

I am going to do that over the weekend hopefully, if not sooner.

It could stand to get better economy.

Thanks Again,

KO

 

[Kiohio]

Yep, Reopening my own thread... .

An update, the HX35 has the stock housing on it. The waste gate is disabled.

I did back alot of stuff off except the fuel plate I haven't looked at it yet.

I now can take off from a dead stop and not fog out little ol' ladies.

I reset the starwheel and backed off the AFC screw.

Still lacks acceleration, but doesn't have any less than it did when it was "foggy".

I'm thinking the truck used to have alot of stuff done to it.

When I bought it it was basically stock, the only thing I can do that isn't "stock" is push 40lbs of boost.

Going to try to round up all of the stuff to set the timing, I need to put a new seal and gasket on the front cover too.

I gotta get these EGT's down and the power up.

From a stand still it doesn't even try to break the tires loose or set you back in the seat much.

No boost leaks.



KO

 

[Champane Flight]

Waste gate..

I would enable the waste gate, it will take care of the bark, and many of your low RPM problems. .

 

[Bob4x4]

I would enable the waste gate, it will take care of the bark, and many of your low RPM problems. .

:-laf Don't think so,no waste gate will do nothing to change low end



Bob

 

[Champane Flight]

Ifs ands buts...

:-laf Don't think so,no waste gate will do nothing to change low end



Bob

Sorry Bob, but if the wastegate is disabled in the fully closed position, no movement, low end will not be effected much, however if it is disabled and frozen in a partially closed position, you have problems. A quote from the manual: "The wastegate turbocharger provides additional low speed boost without over-boost at high speeds, this increases low speed torque and better drivability. " So I would suggest a control rod total travel check at least. Pushing 40 #s of boost and still smoking is not a balanced fueling situation. I would lean towards checking pump for plate(or no plate), after market injectors, look for exhaust leaks, broken exhaust manifold, and enable wastegate with adjustable restrictor fitting in boost line going to wastegate actuator for fine tuning. .



Disabling pieces and parts of the total system only comes back to bite you in the rear. If you do not KNOW what has been done to an engine, it is time to return to stock settings/equipment, and start from that point. That is why a stock baseline dyno is taken before any upgrades are done. :-laf

 

[Missouri Mule]

40 psi should points to a HP plate being on it. Stock should only reach 30 psi. Maybe the stock plate was moved all the way forward.

 

[Kiohio]

I do know...
Stock injectors, new exhaust, exhaust manifold has no leaks.
It only smokes on the bottom and after adjusting the starwheel and smoke screw it is much better as far as smoking goes.
Still feels like stock power but will push 40#'s boost, on top end if I keep the hammer down.
I haven't gotten to look at the plate yet but I'm sure it is stock, it may be slid forward but that's about it.
2750 is max rpms, defuels before that.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

could have a torn wastegate diaphragm

 

[Kiohio]

I looked the wastegate over real good today.

It has been purposely disabled. The line is unhooked etc.

KO

 

[Champane Flight]

Stock is lower, much lower...

40 psi should points to a HP plate being on it. Stock should only reach 30 psi. Maybe the stock plate was moved all the way forward.

Stock on the 95 is only around 14-17, 96 is just a tad over that, 20-22. .