136amp to 180 swap from a 6.7

[Darkbloodmon]

Stock alternator has 227K, I've got dim lights, bearing noise, and a slow needle after start up getting to ideal operational voltage about a min or two till it reads as it should hot.

Stock is a 136amp, there was a write up on another Cummins forum I read over in passing. Long short of that post was that he got a 6K take off 180amp take off from a 17' 6.7, drop in mount for his 03 and a little modification on the plug sheathing due to the different clock position on the alternator. He didn't have any pics of the female side on the alternator showing how he had to modify the harness connector going to it unfortunately, figured this was the critical part and wanted some elaboration on this step before pulling the trigger.

wanted to bump up the juice on the alternator for some of the projects I have planned for the truck, It's becoming a bit of a road side service truck as I throw more tools and equipment in the box.

 

[AH64ID]

If the stock 180 is easy to mod then the 220 would be also, so I’d go that route.

Are you sure it’s not your batteries? When my batteries were failing I had the same symptoms, and unfortunately I let them go too long and it took out the alternator too.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

If the stock 180 is easy to mod then the 220 would be also, so I’d go that route.

Are you sure it’s not your batteries? When my batteries were failing I had the same symptoms, and unfortunately I let them go too long and it took out the alternator too.

Tested both batteries before winter and im meticulous about their status made sure the cells were topped off and wiped the surface and connection points. Took my alternator off when I was resealing my oil cooler (leaking again) and looked it over to hear the bearings on their way out.

Does the 220 have too much amp for the stock cable gauge? I was looking in the archives before this post and saw some back and forth that got muddy. Do you have any details on the modification for the harness to the female connector? I really just need a visual to go "oh, I see"

 

[AH64ID]

With either alternator you would need to upgrade the fuseable link, but the rest of the wiring should be good.


I’m not sure what all is but required. I remember looking into the mod a few years ago and ended up just having my 136A rebuilt locally.

 

[jgillott]

I'm just trying to remember, didn't the 3rd gen snow plow prep package trucks come with a 160A alternator? I could swear that is what is on my '07, but I would have to look it up. Anyway, that would be another option for you if you are looking to upgrade.

 

[Yo Hoot]

The 2004 manual only shows 136 A across the board. When I get home I'll look at my window sticker to see if it has anything about it. I believe I have the plow package but will have to check. I know I have the tow package.

 

[AH64ID]

IIRC 160A became an option on the 6.7's.

 

[CVR222NV]

With either alternator you would need to upgrade the fuseable link, but the rest of the wiring should be good.

When I added the winch, lights and other accessories to my truck I upgraded to a 250 amp aftermarket alternator. All I recall we did was upgrade the wire going from the alternator to the passenger battery, 0 gauge as I recall. Haven't had any problems. Where is the fuseable link located?

 

[AH64ID]

When I added the winch, lights and other accessories to my truck I upgraded to a 250 amp aftermarket alternator. All I recall we did was upgrade the wire going from the alternator to the passenger battery, 0 gauge as I recall. Haven't had any problems. Where is the fuseable link located?

The wire from the alternator to the battery is typically the fusable link.

 

[CVR222NV]

I seem to recall we removed the stock wire and it was solid but had a bulge in it so assume that was the fuse. We replaced with a solid 0 gauge wire with no fuse. Should I add a fuse and if so what amp?

 

[AH64ID]

With a 250A alternator a 300A fuse is probably appropriate.

 

[jgillott]

This is from the 2007 Brochure

http://www.motorologist.com/wp-content/uploads/2007-Ram-HD-brochure.pdf

 

[AH64ID]

This is a cool tool for seeing what all was built on your truck.

https://fcacommunity.force.com/RAM/s/equipment-listing

This is from the 2007 Brochure

http://www.motorologist.com/wp-content/uploads/2007-Ram-HD-brochure.pdf



View attachment 125951

Looks like it's hemi only for the 160A alternator.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

Thanks for the info, found the factory fusible link, it's the power wire to the alt from the battery on my 03 it's 8 gauge, Does anyone know diameter of the 220, 180 or 160s pulleys? All I can get from parts stores is the grove count.

 

[CVR222NV]

Found this on Geno's website: Dodge Diesel 18 Alternator Cable - 180 Amp+ (genosgarage.com)

It indicates 2 gauge for 180 amp alternator and above. Would that be sufficient for a 250 amp rated alternator?

 

[AH64ID]

We know it will work on the 220’s, but that’s the highest output OEM one I know of.

Might be worth an email to Geno’s to see if they know what the link is rated at.

 

[Tuesdak]

I seem to recall we removed the stock wire and it was solid but had a bulge in it so assume that was the fuse. We replaced with a solid 0 gauge wire with no fuse. Should I add a fuse and if so what amp?

Yes and here is why: For example sometimes the diodes in the alt short out. This results in a fire if there is not a fuse or fusible link to stop the meltdown.

 

[CVR222NV]

Geno's responded that their large fuseable link is only good to 180 amps. I think I will go with this setup:

Blue Sea Systems Safety MEGA® Fuse Holder - 32V DC, 300 Amp (delcity.net)

MEGA®Fuses (delcity.net) 300 amp

 

[AH64ID]

Geno's responded that their large fuseable link is only good to 180 amps. I think I will go with this setup:

Blue Sea Systems Safety MEGA® Fuse Holder - 32V DC, 300 Amp (delcity.net)

MEGA®Fuses (delcity.net) 300 amp

That’s what I use on the inverter in my 5th wheel, the 150A version.