Competition 13's Saturday or bust, also Slapper bars are going on tomorrow,,,

[Gary C]

Went to the another suspension guy today and told me about these slapper bars that he took off a FORD SUV.



He says it would work.



He says alot of people take them off, so this could be a cheap add on for us low Horsepower guys.



I will repost back in when they are on and tell you guys if they work. I will also post some pictures.



I have my fingers crossed that a Ford product on a DODGE works. If they do, thank you Ford.

 

[HVAC]

No Wonder!

So, you've been out all day! No wonder I couldn't reach you at the Batcave Robin



Have you decided the Caltracs aren't for you?



How do you compare the SS to the Caltracs?

 

[Gary C]

I really like the SS, Lone Ranger, I talked to Steve the other day for a while and sold me on the SS system, but maybe the cheapy slappers will work for a while.



Sorry I wasn't home.

 

[Archive]

You guys are starting to make me want to SELL my travel trailer and set my dually up for "The Strip". Yeah, I like that. That sounds Great!!! Sell the new trailer and GO RACING with my TDR buddies instead!!!!



Wait a second while I run this idea by my wife ... . I just ran this idea by my wife, and I think she's headed off to the gun cabinet to fetch her 45. I better sign off now and go hide out for (LOUD NOISE ... ... ... . Internet connection has been lost ... ... ... ... . )

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

No need to sell the TT Topfuel! I tow my TT to the races, unhook and then race all day, hook back up and take the trailer home! I raced at several DDRA races this year (Muncie, IN; Salem, OH; Bristol, TN; and St. Louis, MO) and it was nice having my home away from home with me.

 

[Gary C]

Slappers installed,,,, needs a little refining,,,

 

[Gary C]

One more time

 

[Gary C]

This part is off a 2000 Excursion. Drags Saturday.

 

[Gary C]

TUNEING THE BARS





It surprises the uninitiated that the rubber snubber is an important tuning device. The gap between the snubber and the front spring eye influences rear suspension behavior. The wider the gap between the snubber and the spring eye, the more suspension reaction. More reaction means more traction, but the down side is violent starting line behavior that can be uncontrollable.



The first thing to do in sorting out traction bars is to make sure the car leaves the line straight. The place to start is with the driver's side snubber just touching the spring eye with the driver in the car. On the passenger's side, there needs to be about a 1/8 to 1/4" air gap if one is using a transbrake. A footbrake car needs about 1/2" to 1" of air gap all around. To adjust the traction bar, one can put angled shims, shown here with a pair of snubbers, between the traction bar and springs to raise the front end of the bar. At the same time you can trim rubber off the snubbers. It helps to have some spare snubbers for trimming. This will take experimentation. You want a minimum distance for quick contact and maximum weight transfer. At the same time, you want a distance that will really plant the slicks. It's hard to get both.



Once adjusted, try a launch. If the car goes right, increase the air gap on the drivers' side. If it goes left, increase the air gap on the passenger side. Trim and adjust until the car launches straight. Once the car starts launching straight, you can start experimenting with hook. The larger the gap the harder the hit. However, you should proceed slowly. As you increase the gap by trimming snubbers, you must remove the same amount from BOTH sides. If you don't, you'll go sideways. A small increase can sometimes make a big difference in starting line behavior.

 

[High Voltage]

We will see saturday.

 

[Gary C]

Stage 2's



When we added the econo slappers, the stop was touching the spring. They worked way better but I really didn't know what I was doing. After doing some more research I found the above info on how they really work. So I ran out again and found these stops and added them a while ago. The ride is better noe because the stops aren't loaded and the truck hooks up better, Actually it felt like the left front wheel pulled off the ground. click on this link , it is some good reading and understanding how this stuff works.

Lone ranger, I have a set for you if you want them. I know this is not the answer but they will have to do for now.

http://members.primary.net/~elgrab306/slapperbar.htm

 

[Archive]

RVing and Racing.....

Steve, you are obviously a man who has figured out how to have his cake and eat it too.

 

[HVAC]

Made My Decision

I've been in a fog over this traction bar topic but now I'm FIRM ON MY DECISION!!!



Check this out, the SS bars don't create a bind. Some other bars create a bind. I'm going out on a limb and suggest that the people that are concerned with the bind subject are those that have 4wd trucks. My truck is 2wd and will not see any problematic off road terrain. If I were to be offroading, then the bind would be a problem for me in that it would inhibit my suspension.



Now, let's consider my application. I don't offroad. My need is to control the axle under hard launches at the drag strip. I don't have a problem with bind. I need bind possibly! I need to trap all that energy going to the rear axle and make it work FOR me. I need to have that axle forced down to plant my tires so I can get the power translated into forward motion.



I've decided to go with the CalTracs from Calvert Racing. They are $320 including the shipping withing CA. They are designed to force the axle down as torque is applied to the third member. Just my cup 'o' tea!

 

[KWIKKURT]

Hvac, I have been R&Ding a Ladder bar design that doesn't bind, Installs in minutes, Doesn't hit or require removal of any existing componets, No drilling or welding and I haven't been able to break it at the Sled pulls, with my TT at 22,300 lbs and dropping the hammer on poor ol' Peters clutch. And this weekend I loaded a little wood in the back for added Testing of road on fire break trails in the local National Forest. . So far so good... . And I think they will be very affordable





Kurt Yardley ... Mild To Wild Performance Diesel. .

 

[paulk]

Gary,

Good luck tomorrow. Wish I could go again. Had fun last time.

NOWEL- Please respond to my e-mail about my gauge, so I can get it taken care of.

Thank You

 

[KatDiesel]

Uh hum... ... . well???



Saturday has come and gone... ..... whats the scoop?



Tell me what I gotta beat next Sunday... ... ...

 

[High Voltage]

Gary got to the 13's and the slapper bars worked,i think he need's to get some slicks.

 

[Mopar-muscle]

gary , good read on setting the bars , if you notice one statement and then look at your bars you will see a conflict ... contacting the SPRING EYE ... your bars hit the spring , though it does limit axle wrap a bit , they do tend to try and bend the spring ... . this is the case for a true slapper type bar , yours look like a leaf with a snubber . not knocking it , just thinking out loud . your time tells me a bit more launch technique would have netted you a high 13 sec slip ... what did you get ???



hvac , cal tracs are a good product , i have been thinking of them for me , one problem i see for me is you are supposed to replace the rear spring with a mono leaf , i can't do that as i have to use my truck as a truck also . have you looked at this yet ?



the SS bar is probably the best choice for me , but i'm a cheap sob . i did see something from rancho that is similar to the SS bar , but mounted underthe axle , it was on a ford lightening , i'm going to call summit , see what i can find , looks like something i could just throw on at the track .

 

[Gary C]

Well KAt,,, get to work

Sorry, I am late on the response, but I had the date from H3LL last night.



Well, the track was lacking traction and my tires where always pickin up rubber. The econo bars worked for the wheel hop. I ran the rears at 20lbs like I did at Palmdale and DIDN'T get the hopping like I did at Palm. So that worked, later in the day the track at really cold, about 62 degrees, no sun so the tires and were alot colder than Palm.



I was able to launch at 6 lbs of boost( never been able to do that before) and ran a 13. 80@99. 82 with a 2. 02 60 footer. The rest of runs(2) the truck wouldn't hoook up because I did some small burn outs to get the rubber off the tires, 14. 00 @ 99(8lbs) with spin and 14. 2@84 with spin and let up early.



I am getting we tires next week with a treadwear number of 300, the Miches are about 500, so the softer tire will help alot and be able launch better. The rears are toast.



SOOOOOOOOo, the slappers worked in my book not really the answer but they helped alot.



MMuscle, I understand what you where saying, it was quickie deal and the guy that put then on said the older Chrysler's ran off the the spring and not the eyelet, don't get me wrong I asked the same question, thanks for your comment.



In the end, I was aliitle bummed that I could repeat on time but the conditions went away.



BUT STILL I AM IN THE 13'S, yea BABEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE



I would like to thank HighVoltage for the support and he improved his time with a 16. 63, good work Dude and thanks again.

 

[KatDiesel]

Good job -

Good job



I'll get back to you next Sunday... ... until then leave me alone Hehe j/k



My goal (not just just beat your time because I posted this before) is 13. 75 E/T and 98mph



This is with my new turbo hopefully (Praying it shipps tommorrow).



I prolly asked you before but do you know the weight of your truck??? I'm gonna weigh mine as is soon I hope.