'14 Chevy Cruze 6spd manual

[Bluebird]

In heavy traffic on surface streets with inclines, a slight shudder moving in 1st gear. 80K miles. What could be assessed from that? All other shifts, smooth.
Blessings to all, Patrick.

 

[Mikey-KE7LBB]

Sounds like the flywheel is warped, or has some hot spotting. You only feel it in first since you're keeping the clutch at the friction point longer. When brake rotors have the same thing happen, you'll end up with some vibration.

 

[JR]

It sounds like a failing dual mass flywheel. Depending on the severity of the separation you can sometimes hear it rattle at idle as it becomes unbalanced.

 

[Mikey-KE7LBB]

It sounds like a failing dual mass flywheel. Depending on the severity of the separation you can sometimes hear it rattle at idle as it becomes unbalanced.

I totally forgot that that those things exist since I got rid of the POS one on my '09.

 

[Grumpy8811]

honestly, its a Chevy Cruze so does it matter? Drive it until it breaks..

 

[JR]

honestly, its a Chevy Cruze so does it matter?

Are you really insinuating that because it's not an $80k pickup it's not worth maintaining?

 

[Ozymandias]

Well he's partly right, it's a cube and forget about car.
You drive it till something fails and either you fix it then or get rid of the car.
I had several beater cars in my life that I couldn't care less about then what I did.

 

[JR]

Assuming this a DMF issue.....

Option 1. Replace DMF, either with another DMF or a standard flywheel. Unless the clutch was abused it's likely fine for another 80-100k miles.

Option 2. Drive car until flywheel grenades which will most definitely cause enough damage to total a vehicle with 80k miles.

This over a ~$200 part.

Why is this even a conversation? What a bunch of nonsense.

 

[JR]

Did this one on a Saturday afternoon. Even if it takes a weekend at a leisurely pace, no big deal. It's just nuts and bolts.

 

[Tuesdak]

ption 2. Drive car until flywheel grenades which will most definitely cause enough damage to total a vehicle with 80k miles.

This over a ~$200 part.

Why is this even a conversation? What a bunch of nonsense.

Because people forget that a slipping flywheel clutch that grenades does things like cut feet clean off in RWD. FWD isn't the debris path in line with cutting the driver in half?

 

[Ozymandias]

I ve never in my life seen a flywheel grenade or a clutch explode in a low powered compact car from Korea or elsewhere.
A clutch fails and that's it.

We aren't talking about drag racing.

 

[NIsaacs]

Why is this even a conversation? What a bunch of nonsense.

Agreed,

We had two Dodge Neon's ('98 & '05), both required a clutch replacement at about 90k. Not hard at all nor expensive. I would not consider them a throwaway car.

 

[JR]

A clutch fails and that's it.
.

In the event of a complete DMF failure they are well known to separate. That's a huge mass potentially spinning at a high rate. At a minimum it will destroy the bellhousing trying to relieve itself. In rare instances the end of the crank shaft gets ruined. DMF's are a problem in search of a solution, thankfully the aftermarket has standard flywheel replacements for most applications with a standard transmission. Dual shift gear boxes are a different story.

All this being said we really don't know if this is the problem the OP has. I took an educated guess based on the details he provided. Hopefully we hear more from him.

 

[JR]

both required a clutch replacement at about 90k.

I'd of thought an elite driver like yourself would have netted more miles out of a clutch disc
Did Dodge use a standard flywheel on the Neons?

 

[NIsaacs]

I'd of thought an elite driver like yourself would have netted more miles out of a clutch disc
Did Dodge use a standard flywheel on the Neons?

I didn't drive it much

I actually screwed up both times, they really didn't need them. After the fact and the advent of the internet, the noise I thought was clutch failure was a sycro that could rattle at times but didn't hurt anything.

The clutch was one piece package, dual mass I think. Changed it out very similar to a torque converter.

 

[JR]

I didn't drive it much

I see what you did there!

 

[NIsaacs]

The clutch was one piece package, dual mass I think. Changed it out very similar to a torque converter.

 

[Grumpy8811]

Are you really insinuating that because it's not an $80k pickup it's not worth maintaining?

I didn't say squat about pickup trucks.. . what I am insinuating that the car is low in value it , is functioning and it would be better to drive it until it broke because it may never . Does it matter if the clutch is a little bit grabby compared to the amount of money or effort necessary to replace the flywheel and clutch mechanism?

for the record I drove beaters for more than 30 years, but the value in beaters is from not dumping money in them unless you have to and only if you have to and it can never be more than the value of the car.

 

[Grumpy8811]

Well he's partly right, it's a cube and forget about car.
You drive it till something fails and either you fix it then or get rid of the car.
I had several beater cars in my life that I couldn't care less about then what I did.

my point exactly.

when you pull up to Valet Parking at the local Country Club in your Chevy Cruze
they tell you the employee parking is behind the building.

I went 30 years using beaters for commuting because they are cheap
and if something really expensive or difficult to repair happens to them
you throw them away.
They are always sitting on the side of the road For Sale..

Some of them lived a long time ,my 99 Cavalier that I bought for $3000 with 47000 miles on it
was driven until it hit the 317xxx mile point
but the most expensive part I ever put on it would have been a starter or a battery.

I had a Focus I paid 2k for, it was leaking oil so bad but still running I sold it for 500.
I seriously disliked that car, so there was no love lost when it became the Exxon Valdez.
I think I put 110k miles on it.

I had a real winner in a 99 Hyundai Accent, paid 800 for it
drove it about 100k miles
only thing I ever did to it was tires and they were those cheap ones you see advertised at the lowball price
back then I remember paying 160 dollars for 4 tires
I eventually sold it and got 600 for it.
essentially the car cost 4 dollars a month if you look at the cost to purchase that way.

 

[JR]

what I am insinuating that the car is low in value .

The value and whether or not to fix it is not for you or I to decide.

it would be better to drive it until it broke.
.

People like you are why safety inspections are required most everywhere. Would you feel the same if your daughter or son was driving it? How Would you feel if your son or daughter got hit by some idiot with the same attitude because his ball joint wore out 10k miles ago, finally separated at 60mph and hit your son/daughter head on? Drive it til it breaks right? Terrible advice. You should probably not be offering your "help" on an automotive forum.